Switched 12v source--how many accessories?
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Switched 12v source--how many accessories?
Well, by the time I'm done, I'll have an arming switch, bottle heater, bottle opener, and RPM window switch that will all need a switched 12v power source. My question is....can I run them all off of one source, or do I need to find multiple wires to tap in to?
-Jason
-Jason
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Originally Posted by FinalTA
Well, by the time I'm done, I'll have an arming switch, bottle heater, bottle opener, and RPM window switch that will all need a switched 12v power source. My question is....can I run them all off of one source, or do I need to find multiple wires to tap in to?
-Jason
-Jason
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im not sure he was asking bout the relays he was asking for the 12 volt source . . like the on and off switch . .i was wondering the same thing i dont want to over load my radio fuse ..
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Originally Posted by FinalTA
Well, by the time I'm done, I'll have an arming switch, bottle heater, bottle opener, and RPM window switch that will all need a switched 12v power source. My question is....can I run them all off of one source, or do I need to find multiple wires to tap in to?
-Jason
-Jason
What you have listed will not pull any more than 5 amps and that is only if all things were hit at the same time.
Hi amp goes straight to battery, do not even attemp to find a wire inside the car for the solenoids or heater pad.
Ricky
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Originally Posted by NXRICKY
Trick question depends on the wire you are tapping into. You can run all your low amp control stuff off one wire. What I mean is any switch that is running to control a relay is low amp.
What you have listed will not pull any more than 5 amps and that is only if all things were hit at the same time.
Hi amp goes straight to battery, do not even attemp to find a wire inside the car for the solenoids or heater pad.
Ricky
What you have listed will not pull any more than 5 amps and that is only if all things were hit at the same time.
Hi amp goes straight to battery, do not even attemp to find a wire inside the car for the solenoids or heater pad.
Ricky
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I am running the entire control panel from one switched source in the C-5.
Dry to a relay
Wet to a relay
Heater to a relay
Purge to the noid
Opener to the opener
Factory Yellow wire in the Pigtail in the passenger footwell.
No problems.
Dry to a relay
Wet to a relay
Heater to a relay
Purge to the noid
Opener to the opener
Factory Yellow wire in the Pigtail in the passenger footwell.
No problems.
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Originally Posted by Beer99C5
I am running the entire control panel from one switched source in the C-5.
Dry to a relay
Wet to a relay
Heater to a relay
Purge to the noid
Opener to the opener
Factory Yellow wire in the Pigtail in the passenger footwell.
No problems.
Dry to a relay
Wet to a relay
Heater to a relay
Purge to the noid
Opener to the opener
Factory Yellow wire in the Pigtail in the passenger footwell.
No problems.
Robert
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Originally Posted by Robert56
Me too (7-relays, and lap top off the same wire. All the 12v keyed source does is trigger the relay contact inside said relay, and dosn't require but a few milla amps to do so. So , like Ricky said, but I think it's even lower than 5 amps. just make sure your triggering relays only and not the direct source of power for any of your stuff you mentioned.
Robert
Robert
Ricky
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Do most mechanical bottle openers operate without a relay? Should I go ahead and tap in to an alternate 12v switched source for that?
I also have a BMN window switch that operates on a 12v source....that shouldn't draw much current, right?
Sorry...my electrical knowledge is very limited!
I also have a BMN window switch that operates on a 12v source....that shouldn't draw much current, right?
Sorry...my electrical knowledge is very limited!
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I found a nice 12V switched source on the fuse block, its actually a single female spaid port. I used a male spaid connector and put a single 10A fuse inline and I run my bottle heater switch, line lock switch, arm switch, purge switch, & Timing Tuner all off it with no issues.