What is the best bottle pressure?
you pretty much want it at least over 900, but i usually don't spray the car unless it is at least 950. i like to keep mine at 1000- 1050 since it tends to drop 100psi or so throught the run.
too low= won't get the full effect of the shot. too high= solenoids won't open after i believe 1200psi, or so i've heard.
too low= won't get the full effect of the shot. too high= solenoids won't open after i believe 1200psi, or so i've heard.
Well you need to set it according to the manufacture. TNT 900psi, NOS 950, NX 1050 and so on. The jetting tables that each company uses is based upon these pressures, so just randomly deciding to go with what pressure is not a good idea. That is with wet kits, now a dry hit, you can increase bottle pressure for a larger hit, as the MAF can vary the a/f accordingly, but the wet hit can not because of a the static non adjustable fuel jet.
Robert
Robert
Originally Posted by blackls6
Thanks for the help guys. Also, if I have a nx bottle heater, and I turn it on, will it automatically turn off when the bottle pressure gets to high?
I was spraying a 100 dry shot last week and logging data. First two sprays were around 950 and my PE was set to 11.7 AFR (was getting an actual 11.0 or so during spray). No KR and everything was fantastic.
Next day I did the same shot and saw some false KR at the end of the shot, Pressure was probably 990-1000 or so. Later in the day I changed the PE to 12.5 (from 11.7) hoping to get an actual 11.8 and the bottle pressure was 1030, the shot felt great but I logged 4 degrees KR the entire shot. I got an actual 11.5 AFR during the spray.
So I have to wonder, was it the bottle pressure that caused the KR or the fact I was a tad leaner in PE, or maybe a combination of them both?
I am learning bottle pressure and tune are important variables the casual sprayer should consider.
Next day I did the same shot and saw some false KR at the end of the shot, Pressure was probably 990-1000 or so. Later in the day I changed the PE to 12.5 (from 11.7) hoping to get an actual 11.8 and the bottle pressure was 1030, the shot felt great but I logged 4 degrees KR the entire shot. I got an actual 11.5 AFR during the spray.
So I have to wonder, was it the bottle pressure that caused the KR or the fact I was a tad leaner in PE, or maybe a combination of them both?
I am learning bottle pressure and tune are important variables the casual sprayer should consider.
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Originally Posted by Beer99C5
I was spraying a 100 dry shot last week and logging data. First two sprays were around 950 and my PE was set to 11.7 AFR (was getting an actual 11.0 or so during spray). No KR and everything was fantastic.
Next day I did the same shot and saw some false KR at the end of the shot, Pressure was probably 990-1000 or so. Later in the day I changed the PE to 12.5 (from 11.7) hoping to get an actual 11.8 and the bottle pressure was 1030, the shot felt great but I logged 4 degrees KR the entire shot. I got an actual 11.5 AFR during the spray.
So I have to wonder, was it the bottle pressure that caused the KR or the fact I was a tad leaner in PE, or maybe a combination of them both?
I am learning bottle pressure and tune are important variables the casual sprayer should consider.
Next day I did the same shot and saw some false KR at the end of the shot, Pressure was probably 990-1000 or so. Later in the day I changed the PE to 12.5 (from 11.7) hoping to get an actual 11.8 and the bottle pressure was 1030, the shot felt great but I logged 4 degrees KR the entire shot. I got an actual 11.5 AFR during the spray.
So I have to wonder, was it the bottle pressure that caused the KR or the fact I was a tad leaner in PE, or maybe a combination of them both?
I am learning bottle pressure and tune are important variables the casual sprayer should consider.
Robert
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Originally Posted by 98redorangeta
Wet kit need to be set to manufacture recomendations unlesss you got extra fuel jets to play with or you can adjust fuel pressure accordingly.
Robert
12 Second Club
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From: From Ohio now in that state up north
Originally Posted by Robert56@NitrousDirect
Be carefull changing your fuel pressure. That will through your tune off in many areas.
Robert
Robert
ok- i understand that you have to have it at the pressure the mfg. reccomends. so my question is how do you combat the pressure drop-off during the run? or should it not drop if the bottle is properly heated?
Originally Posted by sleeperstyle
ok- i understand that you have to have it at the pressure the mfg. reccomends. so my question is how do you combat the pressure drop-off during the run? or should it not drop if the bottle is properly heated?
Robert
Launching!
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 217
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From: Huntington Beach CA
Another way to combat pressure drop is to start at a lower bottle pressure and compensate with a larger jet to end up with the same over all flow. Although this requires some tunning and is really only used in certain classes where they limit the size and number of bottles you can run. I've also had people do it when they are trying to run Bonnevile, but again adding another bottle is much easier.
It's mostly a combo of things. Each company uses a n2o to fuel ratio concerning their jetting, then they choose a working bottle pressure which they deem correct. So, it's really a mathmatical equation. Then if you change fuel pressure or nitrous pressure you throw everything out of kilter. Now all rules are off if your custom tuning from a new choosen bottle pressure.
On the dry hits, what I do rather than changing jets, if I want a bigger HP hit, I just up the bottle pressure and a/f will stay relative making it much easier to upsize during racing. Try that with your wet hits and you'll go leaner.
Robert
On the dry hits, what I do rather than changing jets, if I want a bigger HP hit, I just up the bottle pressure and a/f will stay relative making it much easier to upsize during racing. Try that with your wet hits and you'll go leaner.
Robert
