Here is a pic of my setup:



I labeled everything for you. I am not sure of your engine setup but the "lid" is just the airbox where the air filter goes, so put your nozzle between that and the throttlebody, make sure it is pointing in the right direction to.

Nitrous is $4.25 a pound near me, ask at the track, speed shops or anyone you know running it.

 

well i really appreciate all the help and especially that pic..but that aint how mine is setup..my airfilter is on top of my intake..it goes like this.. air filter then tbi and then my intake manifold..where would i put it then? and also would a rpm activation switch be a good investment..comes on at 3000 and cuts off at 6000 for $200 yes or no..and also read the beginning again and tell me wat ya think..

 

What you can get out of that pic is how close his nozzle is to the TB. Do the same even though yours is verticle.
As for the window switch.. GREAT investment. Just one more thing that will save your motor and tranny from being a grenade.

 

oh okay..so saying i have the rpm activation switch..when i flip the microswitch and it comes on..when i floor it and it gets up to 3000 rpm will the rpm activation switch automatically engage the nitrous making it starting going into my engine?

 

yeppers.

 

oh okay well is it very hard to install a rpm activation switch? and where is it ran?

 

Not really. The only part is getting the tach wire hooked up. It connects to your ECM unit, pin 10 which is a white wire. There are schematics in the sticky's. There are also threads about the different kinds. Some use "pills" that plug into the module to set the RPM on/off. Others, like mine, set by digital number. (got mine (mallory) from Nitrous Direct).

 

There is no "absolute" place you have to put it as long as it is between your airbox and TB. Do you have a pic of under your hood because I have never seen a pic of your layout.

And yes a window switch is a GREAT investment, just one of many safety features that should always be used. Like the other poster said, it is easy to hook up, just find the tach wire and splice it in there.

 

okay well it sounds pretty simple..and do you think i will get 6000 rpm? i dont have a tach now..so idk what i get..im pretty sure i can..and i heard that the nitrous will make it rev twice as fast.so im pretty sure i can get 6000 rpm..and when i am in 1st gear and take off..when it shuts off at 6000 and i shift into 2nd, will it kick back in at 3000 again? or is it just one time?

 

As long as you're above 3000RPMS after you shift it will continue to spray until 6000RPM

 

oh okay..thanks EBEAR..and Shuck ill send you a pic of my engine..

 

oh yeah..also..how do i put a pic in the post to show you what it looks like? idk how to put a picture of my engine on here..i mean on the post right here

 

PM sent.

 

Go to a hosting site and upload it then copy and paste the link on to your post.

 

ok here is tha pic of my tb and the blue thing is my tb spacer underneath the tb..sorry its a sorry *** pic..i took it late last night and had a flashlight lol..but tell me what ya think? how should i install the nozzle?

 

FIRST ORDER OF BUSINESS...

DON'T DRINK AND TAKE PICTURES.

 

haha well i dont drink but im sure my pics dont say that lol but can you help me out with this pic and tell me anything about it or not?

 

Dude.. that pic is so bad.. I think I see Jesus' face in there.. or is it Lincon's?

I'm sure it's fine, if you've followed the suggestions here and the instructions. Running a plate takes some of the guess work out of it. Make sure the nozzle is pointing into the motor. If you've used a programmer or have a "chip" in it, TAKE IT OUT.
After you fill your bottle and hook it up, use some liquid soap around the connections and look for bubbles. Then...

 

lol okay..and whats the deal with the "chip"? i have one in..and why do i need to take it out?

 

They advance the timing. Very bad thing with N2O. You want it back to stock setting for engine management. You can use a hand-held programmer but only for shift points, redline, shift stiffness etc. After 100 shot of nos, start retarding the timing, 2 deg for every extra 50.