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how big for race gas

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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 06:24 AM
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Default how big for race gas

im shooting a 100 shot on top of a 410 rwhp setup in an auto 02 ss. so im around 500 wheel hp on juice. my next stage is going to be another 100. for a total off 200. stock bottem end. is race gas needed for a 200 shot duel stage. i am going to put a progressive controller on both. but i was wondering if i shuld do a stand alone. what do you guys think. thanks
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 07:38 AM
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I think anything over a 250 or so needs a stand alone. I was hitting my motor with a 250 before (dry) and ran 93 octane. I dont think a progressive on 2 stages in needed, if anything hit it with a 200 and put the progressive on that or dont put a progressive on at all and just split the stages. Stand alone is always a good idea but for what you are looking to do I do not think it is needed. Hope this helps.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 1999TransamWs6
I think anything over a 250 or so needs a stand alone. I was hitting my motor with a 250 before (dry) and ran 93 octane. I dont think a progressive on 2 stages in needed, if anything hit it with a 200 and put the progressive on that or dont put a progressive on at all and just split the stages. Stand alone is always a good idea but for what you are looking to do I do not think it is needed. Hope this helps.

so what would be better, a 225-250 on a progressive, or a 100 fist 125-150 second stage. what is easier on the motor? thanks for the info
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 05:02 PM
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The progressive will be better, it will bring in power at higher RPM which is easier on the motor also it comes in gradually and you can control how much comes in which will also help with traction.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 05:33 PM
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with a stock shortblock.. you're taking a good risk at that level IMO... anything pushing the stock short over 500 rw isn't really gona be safe, no matter how you do it.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 05:35 PM
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I agree, I was just saying what was easier..... I pushed 667RWHP on my shortblock for a while and decided to pull it to go bigger.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 05:41 PM
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667... you a nut LOL.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 05:47 PM
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I know I will get jumped for this. Imo, the multi staging is better in the long run. One run progressing is going to beat the hell out your noids as much as one or two seasons worth of multi stage. Look at any of the serious drag racing teams-multi stage. Progressive has been around for a while 9at least from one company) and noid failure is the biggest concern. Yea, I know everyone is going to say well the noids are better, and/or I have been progressing for blah, blah blah... If you look at the history of all these new progressive controlers, they haven't been out really that long and available to the masses. So watch for the threads in the coming couple years for prog/noid failures and resulting engine damage.
Robert
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 07:30 PM
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I have to agree with Robert on this one too..... What do I know all I do is hit it all out the gate anyways!!!
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 1999TransamWs6
I have to agree with Robert on this one too..... What do I know all I do is hit it all out the gate anyways!!!
At 667 outa the hole, what was the torque?
Robert
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 04:07 AM
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Robert, I totally agree. I've always heard that the progressive controllers were hard on the system resulting in premature failure. How about the "safety kits" where you have two sets of solinoids, the first set is open 100% at WOT then the second is hooked to the progressive controller? I have seen this set-up on a few 10.5 racecars even. I myself have only just hit it with 100 on my ta, and had traction problems but dealt with the hazing. Now with more power n/a on tap, a 100-200 shot is going to give traction issues on anything other than a large radial on 15s. I will be doing the progressive myself with a "safety kit" or just a 2 stage.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 08:01 AM
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not sure about the torque.... Some dumb *** before me hooked the cable up wrong and then it fell and went under the rear tires on the dyno and destroyed the cable but im sure it was up there. I would dead hook on that set-up on a 26" slick

Im hoping my new set-up will be around 900-1000rwhp and I want to hook on a radial, I guess we will have to see
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by NSTY WS6
Robert, I totally agree. I've always heard that the progressive controllers were hard on the system resulting in premature failure. How about the "safety kits" where you have two sets of solinoids, the first set is open 100% at WOT then the second is hooked to the progressive controller? I have seen this set-up on a few 10.5 racecars even. I myself have only just hit it with 100 on my ta, and had traction problems but dealt with the hazing. Now with more power n/a on tap, a 100-200 shot is going to give traction issues on anything other than a large radial on 15s. I will be doing the progressive myself with a "safety kit" or just a 2 stage.
I never rec redundant noids on wet hits, as it doubles the chance of having a failure on either side. It works ok with a dry hit though because it only protects when a noid sticks open, so if one sticks closed no big deal.
Robert
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Old Dec 11, 2006 | 08:06 PM
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i run a 200/250 shot and a hsw stand alone
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