How hard can we really push the LSX!!!
#21
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
racing every week for a whole season, I dunno if more then 300 will be a real good idea...maybe with the lsx or world block you could probably get into teh 400 to 500 range, but even then, it's a crap shoot if it will stay together for 100 passes without a failure.
All it takes is one noid to stick, a bad plug or something in a fuel jet or something and you can have a problem, big problem at that level. Brad's a perfect example.. injector went bad, no way of knowing that is gonna happen, and look at what happened.
All it takes is one noid to stick, a bad plug or something in a fuel jet or something and you can have a problem, big problem at that level. Brad's a perfect example.. injector went bad, no way of knowing that is gonna happen, and look at what happened.
#22
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no replacment of cubic inches that is for sure. Plus, ya can make alot more power on motor, and not have ot spray it so much.. making things easier.
But, in the big block world an 8 second car with nitrous is pretty much commonplace... ya'd have to push for 7's to really be doing anything noteworthy.
But, in the big block world an 8 second car with nitrous is pretty much commonplace... ya'd have to push for 7's to really be doing anything noteworthy.
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right now im on a 380 shot (according to the jet calculator) progresively controlled with nothing more than gm mls gaskets and arp head bolts. it hasnt lifted the heads yet but ive only got like 4 passes on it so far since the install. i trying to get the tune dailed before i keep going on with the spray, witch i think im in over my head with that one.
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
racing every week for a whole season, I dunno if more then 300 will be a real good idea...maybe with the lsx or world block you could probably get into teh 400 to 500 range, but even then, it's a crap shoot if it will stay together for 100 passes without a failure.
All it takes is one noid to stick, a bad plug or something in a fuel jet or something and you can have a problem, big problem at that level. Brad's a perfect example.. injector went bad, no way of knowing that is gonna happen, and look at what happened.
All it takes is one noid to stick, a bad plug or something in a fuel jet or something and you can have a problem, big problem at that level. Brad's a perfect example.. injector went bad, no way of knowing that is gonna happen, and look at what happened.
i think with a 2 stage setup 400 is no problem as long as everything works together.
an injector failing or **** in a nitrous jet ect, thats out of control of the motor. any motor big block small block ect will burn up at that point.
but the motor it self should have no issue with a 400 imo. and towards gthe end of a season bump it up 100 and see what happens
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Originally Posted by tuff
Well if the block is o ringed and your on a copper gasket with 1/2 head studs then lifting the heads is no longer an issue.Ive talked to a few people including W2W and they all say once your o ringed with copper gaskets you won't have the liften heads issue anymore.
Dave
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Tuff , you have 1/2 inch studs or the stock size L19 studs ?
The engine i'm building now is a 408 (callies crank , callies pro beam rods , wiseco shelf piston ) . I'm gonna be ordering some custome pistons with the thick ringland and some hellfire ring . I'm going to run an holley hp carb on it . The nitrous is gonna be a direct port NX with combo flo pneumatic solenoids that I already bought (those are cool ) . The most important reason I bought those solenoids is that there is no way one solenoid can open and the other stay closed . My plan is to run max 400 shot .
The heads are APE stage 3 head that I would like to use but I'm thinking alot because the deck thickness .I'm going to o ring the block and put reciever groove in the heads . With the o ringed block and reciever groove in the head with copper gasket , do you think i would still have problem lifting heads with stock size L19 head studs ?
Geomar
The engine i'm building now is a 408 (callies crank , callies pro beam rods , wiseco shelf piston ) . I'm gonna be ordering some custome pistons with the thick ringland and some hellfire ring . I'm going to run an holley hp carb on it . The nitrous is gonna be a direct port NX with combo flo pneumatic solenoids that I already bought (those are cool ) . The most important reason I bought those solenoids is that there is no way one solenoid can open and the other stay closed . My plan is to run max 400 shot .
The heads are APE stage 3 head that I would like to use but I'm thinking alot because the deck thickness .I'm going to o ring the block and put reciever groove in the heads . With the o ringed block and reciever groove in the head with copper gasket , do you think i would still have problem lifting heads with stock size L19 head studs ?
Geomar
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Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
Correct. I must add a iron block...
Dave
Dave
400 is easy with the proper setup, and you save 90 pounds or more!
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I've seen a few street racers around here spray 400+ without any problems on there ls1's.I plan on spray mine 400+ on two kits.The way i look at it is......It's in the tune-up/set-up working together.
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Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
I have seen 300 or so on a aluminum block. Going to a 500 I would make it a Iron Block..
Dave
Dave
i like the weight savings of alum, and i think they can take it.
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Brad,
My thoughts is that the Iron Block would be stronger and have less give. I like the wait savings of the aluminim block as well. Im just concerned with the aluminum block and aluminum heads and that much cylinder pressure. I am not a expert in this area. This was just my thought process. I wonder what the largest shot is that someone has been able to consistantly spray on a all aluminum set up with no problems.
Dave
My thoughts is that the Iron Block would be stronger and have less give. I like the wait savings of the aluminim block as well. Im just concerned with the aluminum block and aluminum heads and that much cylinder pressure. I am not a expert in this area. This was just my thought process. I wonder what the largest shot is that someone has been able to consistantly spray on a all aluminum set up with no problems.
Dave
#34
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[QUOTE=XtremeLover1999]Tuff , you have 1/2 inch studs or the stock size L19 studs ?
I was told the L19 standard size stud is equal to a 1/2 stud.I have the L19 standard size stud.A bit pricey but still cheaper.
I was told the L19 standard size stud is equal to a 1/2 stud.I have the L19 standard size stud.A bit pricey but still cheaper.
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Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
Brad,
My thoughts is that the Iron Block would be stronger and have less give. I like the wait savings of the aluminim block as well. Im just concerned with the aluminum block and aluminum heads and that much cylinder pressure. I am not a expert in this area. This was just my thought process. I wonder what the largest shot is that someone has been able to consistantly spray on a all aluminum set up with no problems.
Dave
My thoughts is that the Iron Block would be stronger and have less give. I like the wait savings of the aluminim block as well. Im just concerned with the aluminum block and aluminum heads and that much cylinder pressure. I am not a expert in this area. This was just my thought process. I wonder what the largest shot is that someone has been able to consistantly spray on a all aluminum set up with no problems.
Dave
my car was near 1000 rwhp and it was fine. no issues. i have no worry about what it can handle. im not pushing it hard this year, but only because im looking to enjoy the car again unlike befor. i just want to hang big wheelies, and run 9.5 all day long and try to win some $$$
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Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
So your car was an aluminum block. Thats cool. Hmmm maybe I can push this aluminum block further than I thought.
Thanks
Dave
Thanks
Dave
but my ls2 block went about 10-12 passes on 1 stage 250, but only made 1 pass 2 stages but the block was fine besides the scratches on the wall, but that was a bumb injector
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but i pushed no water!
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heres a question, why would u put a dry shot on after the maf, doesn't it have to go before the maf so it can add the right amount of fuel/shot.? maybe thats why you were joking about 16.0 afr. idk just clarifying
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I am currently getting my parts ordered and block work done at Wheel 2 Wheel right now. The motor is being setup for spray, and they said it will be setup right to take the abuse.
They are going to install 1/2" head studs, o-ring the block, reciever groove the heads, straight copper head gaskets etc etc.
They are also ordering a set of their custom spec JE pistons for it. I believe the head engine builder Billy B., said they are going to go with 14.4:1 compression, custom spec 3d mill dome, ceramic coating on the top of the piston, teflon coatings on the sides, gas ports, lowered ring lands, special rings and piston pins, etc etc. Should be a badass setup when I get it back. It is supposed to be done in about 2-3 weeks
They are going to install 1/2" head studs, o-ring the block, reciever groove the heads, straight copper head gaskets etc etc.
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They are also ordering a set of their custom spec JE pistons for it. I believe the head engine builder Billy B., said they are going to go with 14.4:1 compression, custom spec 3d mill dome, ceramic coating on the top of the piston, teflon coatings on the sides, gas ports, lowered ring lands, special rings and piston pins, etc etc. Should be a badass setup when I get it back. It is supposed to be done in about 2-3 weeks
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