is there anything out on the market for a ls6 that i could tune the max hp out of my cam then have something like a msd system or someone elses kind of device that could retard timing and make it safe to run my 150 shot. i no it sounds confusing but does anyone know what im talking about and what exactly i need for that. i already have the safety stuff(msd window switch,fuel pressure safety switch,ect)

 

LS1 timing Tuner. MSD also has something similar, don't know if it's shipping or not.

http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/shop...cat=308&page=1

Matt

 

when are you guys releasing your plate system?

 

Im getting my heads,ported fast 90/90,on this wk to go with my cam and I dont want to lose any N/A. power.I ve got a Harris dry kit that will go on this spring and Im gonna order their timing tuner for it when I hook my kit up

 

My tuner setup my car so that the second the nitrous is activated the IAT goes up to 130F and the PCM pulls timing. No extra module.

 

I'm building a module to do this (LOTS of them actually), but why on earth would he send it high? It's used legitimately up there although it's only a couple of degrees... Why not force it to the bottom of the table (are you REALLY driving at 14degF and below?) where it's currently empty and fill out a more aggressive retard schedule rather than use an area that you may actually see when driving on a hot day? If you have an 01 or up PCM there is also a PE adder Vs. IAT, so you can add some fuel (or remove if you are over-jetted) as well as pulling timing.

 

Run a dry hit, then no worries. The link below is based on max GM/Cyl that the motor sees n/a, then above that point while spraying you set it up to pull timing. This will not effect n/a timing/power. The IAT tricker method is shown in the wiring sticky.
Pull Timing How To
Robert

 

all right thanks. just what i was looking for

 

Works great... on DRY setups. Your sig says "tnt f1 wet". Are converting over from the dark side?

 

I still like to tune for it... you have a lean spike when the dry first comes on, and unless you have a big stall the cylinder fill won't get out of the NA area on the timing map in first gear until up top... it's true that from there on you will be at a high point on the table, but there is that early point (turn on) when you need the timing pulled the most (out of the hole or at the 60', wherever you are hitting it) when the torque spikes and you are at an NA area of your timing map.

 

I got a new timing tuner forsale.

 

Hmmm... I have no lean spike, none, nadda, zilch-running dry. It's all in the set-up, nozzles and fuel system. Anyway, the timing tricker using a resistor or a pointometer will work also.
Robert

 

You are logging wideband and get NO lean moment at introduction?

That timing tricker is cool, I'm trying to build a bunch with weatherpack connectors now to make them easy, but I'm moving the value low rather than high. If you move it high as suggested in the link you will get a 2-3 degree pull in timing (based on resistor tolerance) across the board. For a 200-up shot personally I like to see a bit more pulled out. If you force the IAT low, you can put in your retard in degrees ont he bottom column of the table for as extreme as you like without hurting the NA map. Also if you have an 01 or up PCM (or a 99-00 reflashed with an 01 up OS) you have a PE adder vs. IAT that will let you REALLY tweak your WOT while on the bottle. Of course if you do it my way, you need access to tuning software. Just some thoughts

 

Correct, no lean what so ever. My dyno sheet is posted in the wet vs dry thread, and instantly starts going richer.

Running the tricker, if you use a pointometer rather than a set value resistor, you can dial in an amount you would like pulled, to a limit. I will check out going on the low end. Yes I have played with the IAT vs Fuel adder. Pretty simple as long as your spraying enough to really get the temps down.
Robert

 

The MOST that can be pulled on a stock table is -3 deg But if you're editing the table and tricking the IAT send it low and pull whatever you need to, I can't imagine actually driving my car in less than zero temps, so it won't land there by accident.

The writeup says to use a 750ohm resistor.... that will put you in the 130degF ballpark which, as you can see on the map, is only -3deg of timing. You can pull more at that point, but it's not out of question to hit that cell on a hot summer day NA. Using a 16.2K resistor (or greater) will put you in the lower left corner of this table... pull as much as ya need, remember that you are at the end of the MAP sensor at WOT.

This is a stock IATvs.MAP table

 

Cool, idea going low. I think the pointometer is still the trick. You could set it up by logging or dyno, and mark where for how much timing to be pulled. The pot is just a variable reastat, so what ever resistor value you want to equal what ever pulled timing, just dial it in. You could even set it up ahead of time with an ohm meter.
Robert

 

I will be testing this Mid Feb.

Thanks to Andy (TAQuickness) for helping me out with this!

Using EFI Live Commercial and a Custom EFI OS (OS5)

You can swap from your NA tune to a Nitrous tune on the fly.

Run a wire from Pin 56 (Red connector) to a toggle. When you activate the toggle it should complete the ground. When your NA the toggle should be "open".



Connectors are available for .50 cents a piece



Here is the toggle



Here is the EFI Table that will pull the timing when the toggle is activated.



Pretty simple

Hope it works! I will report back mid Feb.