DynoTune 2 Stage Window/TPS switch question
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
DynoTune 2 Stage Window/TPS switch question Hello all,
Im hoping someone can help me answer a question i have.
Im thinking about buying the DynoTune 2 Stage Window/TPS switch to activate my nitrous setup that will come on at WOT from 2800rpm to around 6000rpm.
Now my question is since the dynotune is 2 stage setup could i use the second stage to hook up a small led shift light that will come on about 6500rpm.
Is there a way it can be hooked up so the shiftlight would be active all the time even when i turn off the nitrous say via a switch.
Thanks
Im hoping someone can help me answer a question i have.
Im thinking about buying the DynoTune 2 Stage Window/TPS switch to activate my nitrous setup that will come on at WOT from 2800rpm to around 6000rpm.
Now my question is since the dynotune is 2 stage setup could i use the second stage to hook up a small led shift light that will come on about 6500rpm.
Is there a way it can be hooked up so the shiftlight would be active all the time even when i turn off the nitrous say via a switch.
Thanks
Closed ex-Sponsor Account
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,797
Likes: 0
From: Wichita Falls, TX
Your second stage out put needs to run a relay if you want it for a shift light application. The outputs are for driving relays. Just replace the light for the 2nd stage noids and all is good.
Ricky
Ricky
NxRicky - Isn't the Dt like the rest of the window switches that just use a FET output to ground? (usually capable of 1-2 amps) According to their verbiage online, it doesn't sound any different. Secondly, I really don't see a reason for a relay if he's running an LED. Just need a 100k resistor to cut the voltage down. Maybe you could clarify 'why' you suggested that.
Lak8 - There's one small problem with this setup. There is only ONE power to the controller. Therefore, your controller would have to be ON in order for the LED on the second stage to work. I'm going to put your schematic together with another switch to cut off the N2o. Not sure if you want to go through all that.
Lak8 - There's one small problem with this setup. There is only ONE power to the controller. Therefore, your controller would have to be ON in order for the LED on the second stage to work. I'm going to put your schematic together with another switch to cut off the N2o. Not sure if you want to go through all that.
Closed ex-Sponsor Account
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,797
Likes: 0
From: Wichita Falls, TX
Originally Posted by Todd157k
NxRicky - Isn't the Dt like the rest of the window switches that just use a FET output to ground? (usually capable of 1-2 amps) According to their verbiage online, it doesn't sound any different. Secondly, I really don't see a reason for a relay if he's running an LED. Just need a 100k resistor to cut the voltage down. Maybe you could clarify 'why' you suggested that.
Lak8 - There's one small problem with this setup. There is only ONE power to the controller. Therefore, your controller would have to be ON in order for the LED on the second stage to work. I'm going to put your schematic together with another switch to cut off the N2o. Not sure if you want to go through all that.
Lak8 - There's one small problem with this setup. There is only ONE power to the controller. Therefore, your controller would have to be ON in order for the LED on the second stage to work. I'm going to put your schematic together with another switch to cut off the N2o. Not sure if you want to go through all that.
Trending Topics
That's what I thought you might have meant.. after I posted.
Anyway, here's a diagram for you. The Arming Switch 2 is a redundant swtich however I don't like the idea of the N2o solenoid being "hot". Arming sw. 1 is mandatory. With the two switches, you can have N/A WOT and no N2o.
With this setup, you would adjust your "ON" rpm at your shift point you want the LED to turn on. Your "OFF" point would be above that. Also, you can vary the intensity of the LED by the resistor. Higher resistance value will make the LED dimmer. If you make it too bright, it will blow. They're good for 3v-5v.
Anyway, here's a diagram for you. The Arming Switch 2 is a redundant swtich however I don't like the idea of the N2o solenoid being "hot". Arming sw. 1 is mandatory. With the two switches, you can have N/A WOT and no N2o.
With this setup, you would adjust your "ON" rpm at your shift point you want the LED to turn on. Your "OFF" point would be above that. Also, you can vary the intensity of the LED by the resistor. Higher resistance value will make the LED dimmer. If you make it too bright, it will blow. They're good for 3v-5v.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
thank you so much Todd157k and also Ricky, i just recently joined this forum not to long ago, but i can already tell its a great place with nice people that are helpful.
Todd157k that is kinda what i had in my mind that would need to be done. So basicly the unit is on all the time, but your just opening the curcuit via a switch to the nitrous side so nothing will happen.
I have a few more questions:
- I understand that i would need to set the rpms for the led so it turns on when i hit redline but would it only turn on only when im at WOT and hitting my set redline point or would it be able to turn on without WOT. (im hoping to have it so its just rpm timed and not rpm and wot, basicly want it like a normal shiftlight)
- Basicly like this
Frist stage for my nitrous so it turns on at only wot and between 3000rpm-6000rpm (will be turned on via switch).
Second stage to only turn the led on at above 6300rpm with no wot needed. (on all the time when ign is on or also controled by switch)
Todd157k that is kinda what i had in my mind that would need to be done. So basicly the unit is on all the time, but your just opening the curcuit via a switch to the nitrous side so nothing will happen.
I have a few more questions:
- I understand that i would need to set the rpms for the led so it turns on when i hit redline but would it only turn on only when im at WOT and hitting my set redline point or would it be able to turn on without WOT. (im hoping to have it so its just rpm timed and not rpm and wot, basicly want it like a normal shiftlight)
- Basicly like this
Frist stage for my nitrous so it turns on at only wot and between 3000rpm-6000rpm (will be turned on via switch).
Second stage to only turn the led on at above 6300rpm with no wot needed. (on all the time when ign is on or also controled by switch)
I'm pretty sure the tps would kill the LED if not at WOT. NXRicky might know if you can get around that one. These controllers usually work as an "and" circuit. ie: WOT and RPM and ACTIVATION = on
