Nitrous GURUS come in please
Nitrous GURUS come in please Alright heres the deal, Im having some problems with my TNT F1 kit spraying correctly. The problem I am having is the fuel noid is hitting but my n20 noid is not. I have checked everything. Checked my relay, its good, even tried another relay.Changed the groud just to see if that would do anything...nothing. When I jump the + wire off my n20 noid to the batt it hits and opens fine and will spray, I can see it in my lid. I also put a scewdriver over both noids and they magnitized fine pulling the screwdriver down with good force so I know both noids are working. I have a TPS/WOT in one switch from Nitrous outlet and that is also set up and wired correctly, Ive checked it several times. I have it set to come on at 3k rpm and WOT. It does that perfectly but my A/F gauge goes pig rich at 3k and I can tell its not hitting. This was also verified on the dyon when I tried to spay it for my tune. I would actually losse some power from all the fuel being dumped into my motor. Can my n20 noid be bad??? I dont see why it would work when I jump it off the batt and it works but not when my system is armed. Does anyone have any advice for me. Oh....I even put a FULL bottle on to make sure I was getting juice and not air and it still does the same thing. I am lost and need some help. THANKS!!!
In a post i read a lil bit ago someone had problems not spraying becuase the bottle pressure was above 1100 psi which to the best of m knowledge is where most noids are set to NOT spray at more then 1100psi.....other then that I have no clue sorry I couldnt help more
seth
seth
sorry forgot to mention that aswell...I have tried spraying it from 700psi to 1100psi, nothing, and yes both + wires are going to the same spot on the relay just as the instructions say too so they SHOULD both be getting power at the same time. The realy is getting perfect volts and current should not be a problem either, I have that power coming from my batt accessory post. Ive checked and its getting propper volts and current should not be a problem as the wire is fine and a good size. I cant figure it out...???
is your btl open?
sorry, had to ask.
using a btl opener?
i had a local guy to had a somewhat similar issue. come to find out his opener was stripped out. the motor would work, but it didnt open the the valve itself.
opened it up by hand and bingo.
subscribed
sorry, had to ask.
using a btl opener?
i had a local guy to had a somewhat similar issue. come to find out his opener was stripped out. the motor would work, but it didnt open the the valve itself.
opened it up by hand and bingo.
subscribed
bottle is open, I mention I could see the spray in my lid when I jumped it to the batt....voltage to the n20 noid is the only thing that too can think of that would be causing a problem too...but I dont see why the fuel noid is getting power and not the n20 noid when they both are getting power from the same source.
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Originally Posted by usd2sing
is your FPSS hooked up and set to the correct pressures?
maybe try bypassing it.
just a thought
maybe try bypassing it.
just a thought
Guest
Posts: n/a
another thing to check is the overall voltage/charging system. Depnding on how much voltage draw you have on the car could cause one solenoid to open.
It is either a voltage issue or solenoid issue. Sounds like voltage to me.
The window switch is supplying ground....simple on/off.
As long as both solenoids are grounded to the same place they would either both open or fail. This is assuming the window switch has a good ground.
It is either a voltage issue or solenoid issue. Sounds like voltage to me.
The window switch is supplying ground....simple on/off.
As long as both solenoids are grounded to the same place they would either both open or fail. This is assuming the window switch has a good ground.
Im also not running a FPSS.
Does anyone know a way to put the TPS/WOT box in a test mode. Id like to do some testing but not with the car on if possible (its loud). If I do have to have it on can I just put the window switch settings to 000 so that it does not need a RPM signal and only need a WOT signal (wich I get perfectly) that way I dont have to rev the car real high and just fash it to WOT and then I can check to see the difference in voltage from that the fuel and n20 noid are getting like brad mention...that can be the only damn thing. Now on that note, what would that mean. I have tried another realy and its doing the same thing, how would I make it get more voltage....damn this sucks and thanks for all the help guys....I WANT TO SPRAY this bitch!!!!
Does anyone know a way to put the TPS/WOT box in a test mode. Id like to do some testing but not with the car on if possible (its loud). If I do have to have it on can I just put the window switch settings to 000 so that it does not need a RPM signal and only need a WOT signal (wich I get perfectly) that way I dont have to rev the car real high and just fash it to WOT and then I can check to see the difference in voltage from that the fuel and n20 noid are getting like brad mention...that can be the only damn thing. Now on that note, what would that mean. I have tried another realy and its doing the same thing, how would I make it get more voltage....damn this sucks and thanks for all the help guys....I WANT TO SPRAY this bitch!!!!
Ray, yes it seems to be a voltage problem. I am getting the ground signal from the TPS/WOT box or the relay would not work. I have the ground for the box on one of the ground ports on the passenger side. I had all three groudns (purge, fuel and n20) going to my passenger side head, I then took my ground for the n20 noid and put it on the driver side ground port....still did the same thing. I guess I will try and put all three gounds on the same port has my n20 noid and see what that does but like I said I did have all three on the same ground before.
What would I need to do to check the overall voltage system...Im getting 12.8v to the box and the same to relay so I assunme that is good enough.
What would I need to do to check the overall voltage system...Im getting 12.8v to the box and the same to relay so I assunme that is good enough.
I assume you have both solenoids wired together, but with one power wire and one ground wire. If your wire gauge is too small, it will not supply enough current to open both noids. You should have 10 awg. wire throughout the power circuit and a 10 awg. wire through ground. This is only for the activation circuit, not control circuit.
as far as the voltage goes 12.8v was with just the batt on, I will check it with the car on but I bet its higher. Im no for sure on the exact gauge size but it is atleast 12 if not 10. And I have both + wires off the noids coming to one that I have cripmed to the relay. And the grounds all have their own wire.
Originally Posted by 99WS7
as far as the voltage goes 12.8v was with just the batt on, I will check it with the car on but I bet its higher. Im no for sure on the exact gauge size but it is atleast 12 if not 10. And I have both + wires off the noids coming to one that I have cripmed to the relay. And the grounds all have their own wire.