Blowing fuses....
Blowing fuses.... I've searched, and even wrote to a couple members, with no success.
I had my nitrous kit wired into the IGN in the I/P fuse box. I blew the GAUGE fuse when I flipped the switch. I then wired it into another fuse, can't remember which one, and then blew the window/wiper fuse when I flipped the switch. I was gonna try and wire it to it's own seperate circuit, but I'm not sure how to do that. I went out today and wired up the IGN, switched source, to one side of a 30A breaker, then the other side to my nitrous accessories....still blew a fuse.
What should I do?
I had my nitrous kit wired into the IGN in the I/P fuse box. I blew the GAUGE fuse when I flipped the switch. I then wired it into another fuse, can't remember which one, and then blew the window/wiper fuse when I flipped the switch. I was gonna try and wire it to it's own seperate circuit, but I'm not sure how to do that. I went out today and wired up the IGN, switched source, to one side of a 30A breaker, then the other side to my nitrous accessories....still blew a fuse.
What should I do?
I have that exact problem with my bottle heater. I blow gauge fuses when I activate the heater (or any fuse for that matter). I am also running a 30A inline fuse and it never pops (go figure).
My nitrous system works, but my heater doesn't. So I'm kind of in the same boat as you. I'd like to know what a possible solution is.
My nitrous system works, but my heater doesn't. So I'm kind of in the same boat as you. I'd like to know what a possible solution is.
Originally Posted by JKDZ28
I have that exact problem with my bottle heater. I blow gauge fuses when I activate the heater (or any fuse for that matter). I am also running a 30A inline fuse and it never pops (go figure).
My nitrous system works, but my heater doesn't. So I'm kind of in the same boat as you. I'd like to know what a possible solution is.
My nitrous system works, but my heater doesn't. So I'm kind of in the same boat as you. I'd like to know what a possible solution is.
Because of the current draw of the heater and the solenoids, IMHO its always a good idea to wire the source power for the relays right to the battery (with an inline fuse and heavy gauge wire) or that + terminal in on the driver's side in the engine bay. Your activation switches can be wired into accessories on the fuse panel, since the current draw for those is fairly low.
What size wire? I basically did mine the opposite way once. I wired a circuit breaker straight to the battery post, then on the other side of the breaker I wired up everything. It worked and all, but the wire was pulling way too much current obviously and started to smoke and melt the covering. Should I just wire it back up like that and just use a larger wire? That way everything will be running off of one circuit breaker vs anything that will blow fuses in the car.
I used 10ga from the post, through the 30A fuse holder, to the 12v source input on the relay at the back of the car by the bottle in the spare tire well. I picked 10ga since they had a 50' spool of it for pretty cheap, but 12ga would probably be fine too.
I then used a seperate 10ga fuse holder for the noid activation relay, and just connected the 12ga wire on the relay to the output, since I mounted that relay fairly close to the battery.
Keep in mind wire size is related to both the current pull, and the length of the wire. For instance for 20 amp service on the noid relay mounted 1' from the battery, you could potentially use 14ga wire. But for 25A service for the heater relay 10' away in the back of the car, you may need 10-12ga wire. Someone once posted a good link to a chart of wire gauge requirements by distance and current pull. Its a good guide to use if you can find it in the search.
I then used a seperate 10ga fuse holder for the noid activation relay, and just connected the 12ga wire on the relay to the output, since I mounted that relay fairly close to the battery.
Keep in mind wire size is related to both the current pull, and the length of the wire. For instance for 20 amp service on the noid relay mounted 1' from the battery, you could potentially use 14ga wire. But for 25A service for the heater relay 10' away in the back of the car, you may need 10-12ga wire. Someone once posted a good link to a chart of wire gauge requirements by distance and current pull. Its a good guide to use if you can find it in the search.
woa kimosabi... the answer to "why" is not putting in bigger fuses. First, find out if everything is working / wired correctly. Use an ammeter, 10amp setting (without the heater 10 amp setting will be sufficient) instead of a fuse.
turn the bottle valve closed, disconnect the heater, and jumper across any window switch/fpss switch. With the ignition on, but car not started, test the system and see if the noids work. If you think there's juice in the lines.. don't start your car for a few hours after doing all this. (or take off the intake tube before you test)
If that checks out, then it's as simple as stated above.. run a separate fused line (with a solenoid is always a good idea, takes the current draw off the switch).
electrical fires are not pretty.
turn the bottle valve closed, disconnect the heater, and jumper across any window switch/fpss switch. With the ignition on, but car not started, test the system and see if the noids work. If you think there's juice in the lines.. don't start your car for a few hours after doing all this. (or take off the intake tube before you test)
If that checks out, then it's as simple as stated above.. run a separate fused line (with a solenoid is always a good idea, takes the current draw off the switch).
electrical fires are not pretty.
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Originally Posted by Todd157k
woa kimosabi... the answer to "why" is not putting in bigger fuses. First, find out if everything is working / wired correctly. Use an ammeter, 10amp setting (without the heater 10 amp setting will be sufficient) instead of a fuse.
turn the bottle valve closed, disconnect the heater, and jumper across any window switch/fpss switch. With the ignition on, but car not started, test the system and see if the noids work. If you think there's juice in the lines.. don't start your car for a few hours after doing all this. (or take off the intake tube before you test)
If that checks out, then it's as simple as stated above.. run a separate fused line (with a solenoid is always a good idea, takes the current draw off the switch).
electrical fires are not pretty.
turn the bottle valve closed, disconnect the heater, and jumper across any window switch/fpss switch. With the ignition on, but car not started, test the system and see if the noids work. If you think there's juice in the lines.. don't start your car for a few hours after doing all this. (or take off the intake tube before you test)
If that checks out, then it's as simple as stated above.. run a separate fused line (with a solenoid is always a good idea, takes the current draw off the switch).
electrical fires are not pretty.
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Originally Posted by 860 Performance
10A won't be enough if he has big noids. Nit noids pull about 20A and fuel noids pull about 5A.
Originally Posted by Todd157k
aren't those numbers derived from "operational" loads (ie, under pressure) and not "static" loads?
What type of toggle switch are you using? If its a LED style with 3 pronges I would guess that perhaps you have it wired incorrectly there but its just a guess with the limited info.
Originally Posted by Todd157k
woa kimosabi... the answer to "why" is not putting in bigger fuses. First, find out if everything is working / wired correctly. Use an ammeter, 10amp setting (without the heater 10 amp setting will be sufficient) instead of a fuse.
turn the bottle valve closed, disconnect the heater, and jumper across any window switch/fpss switch. With the ignition on, but car not started, test the system and see if the noids work. If you think there's juice in the lines.. don't start your car for a few hours after doing all this. (or take off the intake tube before you test)
If that checks out, then it's as simple as stated above.. run a separate fused line (with a solenoid is always a good idea, takes the current draw off the switch).
electrical fires are not pretty.
turn the bottle valve closed, disconnect the heater, and jumper across any window switch/fpss switch. With the ignition on, but car not started, test the system and see if the noids work. If you think there's juice in the lines.. don't start your car for a few hours after doing all this. (or take off the intake tube before you test)
If that checks out, then it's as simple as stated above.. run a separate fused line (with a solenoid is always a good idea, takes the current draw off the switch).
electrical fires are not pretty.
If I run everything on a seperate circuit breaker with a 10ga wire won't that work?
12V to breaker/inline 30A fuse from breaker to all nitrous accessories with 10ga wire....with their own seperate fuses? Then just splice off that 10ga wire for any other accessories.
Originally Posted by john3daly
I know the kit works. It will spray fuel when activated, as I don't have the nitrous line connected.
If I run everything on a seperate circuit breaker with a 10ga wire won't that work?
12V to breaker/inline 30A fuse from breaker to all nitrous accessories with 10ga wire....with their own seperate fuses? Then just splice off that 10ga wire for any other accessories.
If I run everything on a seperate circuit breaker with a 10ga wire won't that work?
12V to breaker/inline 30A fuse from breaker to all nitrous accessories with 10ga wire....with their own seperate fuses? Then just splice off that 10ga wire for any other accessories.
Also, mostly for other guys "T-ing" off grounds for noids, there's a voltage drop as the current increases (and length of wire increases). Don't T off grounds on the high current side of a system.
Ran a direct battery source to one side of the breaker and then wired everything else off the other side. The breaker I have has post on it, so it makes it easy with ring terminals. I also used 10ga wire for the main sources. Everything is working great. Thanks for the replies/ideas guys.
