Nitro Daves Dual stage plate system running way lean
04-16-2007, 10:14 PM
#41
The owner called me today.
He is getting me alittle more info so I can see what is going on. I asked for a capy of the dyno chart.
He says the fuel pressure is staying steady at wide open throttle. But the kit starts off at 14.1 and ends up around 10_ _.
I need to see the graph to determain if he just has a lean spike... If so shortening the lines from the fuel solenoid to the plate will be the fix. It is common to sometimes have a lean spike that requires tunning out.
I can also see if there is a fuel delivery problem from seeing the dyno Graph.
The problem I am running into is that in the process of trying to help see what is going on no one can give me all the info I need to locate the problem.
Dave
He is getting me alittle more info so I can see what is going on. I asked for a capy of the dyno chart.
He says the fuel pressure is staying steady at wide open throttle. But the kit starts off at 14.1 and ends up around 10_ _.
I need to see the graph to determain if he just has a lean spike... If so shortening the lines from the fuel solenoid to the plate will be the fix. It is common to sometimes have a lean spike that requires tunning out.
I can also see if there is a fuel delivery problem from seeing the dyno Graph.
The problem I am running into is that in the process of trying to help see what is going on no one can give me all the info I need to locate the problem.
Dave
04-17-2007, 10:36 AM
#43
Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
He says the fuel pressure is staying steady at wide open throttle. But the kit starts off at 14.1 and ends up around 10_ _.
We also discussed insted of shortening the fuel lines, he could make the nitours lines a little longer. Correct?
What other info you need? The fuel pressure is steady at 55psi WOT/100shot, the AFR is on the graph I told him to go get and should be posted soon. The problem he's having is not being able to provide that info due to lack of wideband. And to get that info he'll have to pay again to dyno and which wouldnt be a problem if the nitrous kit was performing well. But its pointless to pay for the dyno when you already know whats going to happen...Kind f a waste of money..
06-01-2007, 09:44 AM
#45
Originally Posted by Lythropus
did you ever get this thing figured out?
The people tunning the car hit both stages at the same time. Never hit each stage individually. This makes it impossible for me to determain what the real problem is. It could be many different machanical type things or a tunning issue. Im not really sure.
In order for me to be able to help over the phone some one is going to have to go about tunning the car properly.. Other wise we are just shooting in the dark.
Dave
06-07-2007, 01:50 PM
#46
Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
I talk to the owner a while back. Who ever was tunning this car went about it the wrong way. So I do not really have any info to work with.
The people tunning the car hit both stages at the same time. Never hit each stage individually. This makes it impossible for me to determain what the real problem is. It could be many different machanical type things or a tunning issue. Im not really sure.
In order for me to be able to help over the phone some one is going to have to go about tunning the car properly.. Other wise we are just shooting in the dark.
Dave
The people tunning the car hit both stages at the same time. Never hit each stage individually. This makes it impossible for me to determain what the real problem is. It could be many different machanical type things or a tunning issue. Im not really sure.
In order for me to be able to help over the phone some one is going to have to go about tunning the car properly.. Other wise we are just shooting in the dark.
Dave
The 2nd stage was sprayed with a 50 shot (100total) 2-3 times with the same result and neither was sprayed at the same time. I cant remember what RPM the window switch was set at but they were 1000rpm+ apart.
We bought 2-2ft lines and fittings to make the nx lines longer hopping that would make enough delay on the nx side for the fuel to hit quicker but that had no effect on the spikes.
I have personally pulled off all soelnoids, and lines all the way to the bottle and there is no blockage, Ive pulled all lines from the plate held them then sprayed it, all are sparying a ton of gas/nx.
06-07-2007, 04:27 PM
#47
Vann,
Ok when I talk to Kent over the phone he told me that the Dyno shop had only hit both stages at the same time. So if yall hit them seperate thats great. That is the correct way of doing it.
Did both stages show a lean issue?
He did send me over a copy of the Dyno Graph.
On the Dyno Graph it shows the system that on the spray was activated at 4.9 RPM. This is what it showed.
Started at
4.9 RPM-16 airfuel
Spiked to
5.1 RPM-17 airfuel
Droped to
5.3 RPM-13.8 airfuel
Run was shut off at
5.7 RPM-13.8airfuel
NA tune is at 12.8 airfuel pretty much straight across the board.
According to earlier info I recieved yall watched fuel pressure and it never droped. If this is the case you should be able to put a larger fuel pill in the system and richen the system to the point of getting the air fuel correct. If going up in the fuel pills did not richen up the system we have a fuel flow problem somewhere.. What fuel pills did you start with and what did you end with?
Fix is the following.
1.Make sure we have enough fuel pump and fuel pressure is not droping through the run.
2. Flaper Hose- Obstruction in the hose caused by the teflon slithering when being crimped together.
3. Fuel solenoid flow problems. Maybe a swollen fuel plunger caused by gas cut with ethonal.
4.Flow restriction in the plate. I highly dought unless you had a piece of trash enter the plate from your install.(the plates are flow tested before they ship. You can check to see if there is a sflow issue from blockage by taking the plate and blowing air from a air compressor through the plate. Run your fingers over the wholes to feel if the air is comming out. You can also spray carb cleaner through it and make sure all the ports flow.
As far as tunning out a lean spike. It is not common on every car but it does happen from time to time. The fix to tune out a lean spike is to shorten the hose from the fuel solenoid to the plate.
Instead of going back and forth in pms we can keep it here if that is ok. Its easier for me to keep track of.lol
In responce to your pm.
As far as having to purchase shorter lines and installing different fuel jets than what we suggest as a starting tunning point this is part of putting something aftermarket on your car.
Every car reacts differently and we are using machanical parts sometimes your application may yield different results requiring a jet change or different lenght hose. And even when buying the best parts there are sometimes machanical issues so adding a aftermarket part is not always a bolt on and go thing. This is a chance you take when modding your car and it cost money.
Ofcourse if there is a machanical issue we warrenty our parts but can not cover the cost of additional parts you may need to tune the system to your cars specifics.
I am here to help but I have not had steady consistant information so I am confused and lost as well.
Lets start over by checking the questions I have asked in this post and checking off the list.
I am sorry this has been so fsutrating for you and Kent. I really do not want yall to think I do not care. Because I do.
Thanks
Dave
Ok when I talk to Kent over the phone he told me that the Dyno shop had only hit both stages at the same time. So if yall hit them seperate thats great. That is the correct way of doing it.
Did both stages show a lean issue?
He did send me over a copy of the Dyno Graph.
On the Dyno Graph it shows the system that on the spray was activated at 4.9 RPM. This is what it showed.
Started at
4.9 RPM-16 airfuel
Spiked to
5.1 RPM-17 airfuel
Droped to
5.3 RPM-13.8 airfuel
Run was shut off at
5.7 RPM-13.8airfuel
NA tune is at 12.8 airfuel pretty much straight across the board.
According to earlier info I recieved yall watched fuel pressure and it never droped. If this is the case you should be able to put a larger fuel pill in the system and richen the system to the point of getting the air fuel correct. If going up in the fuel pills did not richen up the system we have a fuel flow problem somewhere.. What fuel pills did you start with and what did you end with?
Fix is the following.
1.Make sure we have enough fuel pump and fuel pressure is not droping through the run.
2. Flaper Hose- Obstruction in the hose caused by the teflon slithering when being crimped together.
3. Fuel solenoid flow problems. Maybe a swollen fuel plunger caused by gas cut with ethonal.
4.Flow restriction in the plate. I highly dought unless you had a piece of trash enter the plate from your install.(the plates are flow tested before they ship. You can check to see if there is a sflow issue from blockage by taking the plate and blowing air from a air compressor through the plate. Run your fingers over the wholes to feel if the air is comming out. You can also spray carb cleaner through it and make sure all the ports flow.
As far as tunning out a lean spike. It is not common on every car but it does happen from time to time. The fix to tune out a lean spike is to shorten the hose from the fuel solenoid to the plate.
Instead of going back and forth in pms we can keep it here if that is ok. Its easier for me to keep track of.lol
In responce to your pm.
As far as having to purchase shorter lines and installing different fuel jets than what we suggest as a starting tunning point this is part of putting something aftermarket on your car.
Every car reacts differently and we are using machanical parts sometimes your application may yield different results requiring a jet change or different lenght hose. And even when buying the best parts there are sometimes machanical issues so adding a aftermarket part is not always a bolt on and go thing. This is a chance you take when modding your car and it cost money.
Ofcourse if there is a machanical issue we warrenty our parts but can not cover the cost of additional parts you may need to tune the system to your cars specifics.
I am here to help but I have not had steady consistant information so I am confused and lost as well.
Lets start over by checking the questions I have asked in this post and checking off the list.
I am sorry this has been so fsutrating for you and Kent. I really do not want yall to think I do not care. Because I do.
Thanks
Dave
06-07-2007, 05:44 PM
#48
Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
Vann,
Ok when I talk to Kent over the phone he told me that the Dyno shop had only hit both stages at the same time. So if yall hit them seperate thats great. That is the correct way of doing it.
Did both stages show a lean issue?
He did send me over a copy of the Dyno Graph.
On the Dyno Graph it shows the system that on the spray was activated at 4.9 RPM. This is what it showed.
Started at
4.9 RPM-16 airfuel
Spiked to
5.1 RPM-17 airfuel
Droped to
5.3 RPM-13.8 airfuel
Run was shut off at
5.7 RPM-13.8airfuel
NA tune is at 12.8 airfuel pretty much straight across the board.
According to earlier info I recieved yall watched fuel pressure and it never droped. If this is the case you should be able to put a larger fuel pill in the system and richen the system to the point of getting the air fuel correct. If going up in the fuel pills did not richen up the system we have a fuel flow problem somewhere.. What fuel pills did you start with and what did you end with?
Fix is the following.
1.Make sure we have enough fuel pump and fuel pressure is not droping through the run.
2. Flaper Hose- Obstruction in the hose caused by the teflon slithering when being crimped together.
3. Fuel solenoid flow problems. Maybe a swollen fuel plunger caused by gas cut with ethonal.
4.Flow restriction in the plate. I highly dought unless you had a piece of trash enter the plate from your install.(the plates are flow tested before they ship. You can check to see if there is a sflow issue from blockage by taking the plate and blowing air from a air compressor through the plate. Run your fingers over the wholes to feel if the air is comming out. You can also spray carb cleaner through it and make sure all the ports flow.
As far as tunning out a lean spike. It is not common on every car but it does happen from time to time. The fix to tune out a lean spike is to shorten the hose from the fuel solenoid to the plate.
Instead of going back and forth in pms we can keep it here if that is ok. Its easier for me to keep track of.lol
In responce to your pm.
As far as having to purchase shorter lines and installing different fuel jets than what we suggest as a starting tunning point this is part of putting something aftermarket on your car.
Every car reacts differently and we are using machanical parts sometimes your application may yield different results requiring a jet change or different lenght hose. And even when buying the best parts there are sometimes machanical issues so adding a aftermarket part is not always a bolt on and go thing. This is a chance you take when modding your car and it cost money.
Ofcourse if there is a machanical issue we warrenty our parts but can not cover the cost of additional parts you may need to tune the system to your cars specifics.
I am here to help but I have not had steady consistant information so I am confused and lost as well.
Lets start over by checking the questions I have asked in this post and checking off the list.
I am sorry this has been so fsutrating for you and Kent. I really do not want yall to think I do not care. Because I do.
Thanks
Dave
Ok when I talk to Kent over the phone he told me that the Dyno shop had only hit both stages at the same time. So if yall hit them seperate thats great. That is the correct way of doing it.
Did both stages show a lean issue?
He did send me over a copy of the Dyno Graph.
On the Dyno Graph it shows the system that on the spray was activated at 4.9 RPM. This is what it showed.
Started at
4.9 RPM-16 airfuel
Spiked to
5.1 RPM-17 airfuel
Droped to
5.3 RPM-13.8 airfuel
Run was shut off at
5.7 RPM-13.8airfuel
NA tune is at 12.8 airfuel pretty much straight across the board.
According to earlier info I recieved yall watched fuel pressure and it never droped. If this is the case you should be able to put a larger fuel pill in the system and richen the system to the point of getting the air fuel correct. If going up in the fuel pills did not richen up the system we have a fuel flow problem somewhere.. What fuel pills did you start with and what did you end with?
Fix is the following.
1.Make sure we have enough fuel pump and fuel pressure is not droping through the run.
2. Flaper Hose- Obstruction in the hose caused by the teflon slithering when being crimped together.
3. Fuel solenoid flow problems. Maybe a swollen fuel plunger caused by gas cut with ethonal.
4.Flow restriction in the plate. I highly dought unless you had a piece of trash enter the plate from your install.(the plates are flow tested before they ship. You can check to see if there is a sflow issue from blockage by taking the plate and blowing air from a air compressor through the plate. Run your fingers over the wholes to feel if the air is comming out. You can also spray carb cleaner through it and make sure all the ports flow.
As far as tunning out a lean spike. It is not common on every car but it does happen from time to time. The fix to tune out a lean spike is to shorten the hose from the fuel solenoid to the plate.
Instead of going back and forth in pms we can keep it here if that is ok. Its easier for me to keep track of.lol
In responce to your pm.
As far as having to purchase shorter lines and installing different fuel jets than what we suggest as a starting tunning point this is part of putting something aftermarket on your car.
Every car reacts differently and we are using machanical parts sometimes your application may yield different results requiring a jet change or different lenght hose. And even when buying the best parts there are sometimes machanical issues so adding a aftermarket part is not always a bolt on and go thing. This is a chance you take when modding your car and it cost money.
Ofcourse if there is a machanical issue we warrenty our parts but can not cover the cost of additional parts you may need to tune the system to your cars specifics.
I am here to help but I have not had steady consistant information so I am confused and lost as well.
Lets start over by checking the questions I have asked in this post and checking off the list.
I am sorry this has been so fsutrating for you and Kent. I really do not want yall to think I do not care. Because I do.
Thanks
Dave
Thanks for all you help! Im going to realy the messages and see what happens. Ill keep you posted.
Thanks!
