28 F/I

 

One thing you have to take into consideration is hes running a 7 which in my experience is too hot for what hes doing regardless of the Torco 116. Hes also been known to mushroom a valve or 2 and thats why hes always rebuilding. I do know that nitrous will tend to see 1200EGT's but for safety and the wrong plug which i know he will change 1300 is too hot.

As far as ET concerned more power = less ET's if you can get it down the track. Hopefully he will without hurting parts. Unfortunately I dont think the tuning knowledge is there for that kind of power plant and for it to make more then 1 pass doing so.

 

8's I gapped at .026, 9's at .024 and 10's at .022
I never go more then what they are out of the box. I always go less and cut the ground straps back some. Youd be surprised at what that alone is worth in spark intensity.

 

You talk alot of ****.

How fast is your LS1 ?

 

I have a couple plug questions for the guys in the know, and should help those of us reading along. Is the heat range more dependent on hit size or total HP, or a combo of both? My new set-up is a forged ls2 and will be starting with a dual staged 300shot. Was going to run the 8's and now wondering should i start with 9's? My total staring HP should be in the 700rwhp range. Any insight or advice would be welcome, as I don't want to melt down again.
Robert

 

Is that cuz you guys are running lots of compression though, cuz i'm only @ 11.3:1?

 

Compression, HP and nitrous all increase the temp of the cylinder. The easiest thing to do is follow what some have already posted about heat ranges for certain size shots.

Did I read that right... 700rwhp on motor?

With your 300 shot I'd start with a number 9. Much easier on the motor to be too cold then hurt something by turning it into a glow plug with too hot of a plug.

Devon - I'm at 11.3 - 1.

 

So I could be goin slower by having them gapped loser? That doesn't seem right too me.

 

Eric, what do you gap ur plugs at, and by having mine gapped at 32 could I be leavin some power on the table, I always thought you'd get more power by running as loose of a gap as you can w/o blowing out spark.

 

No 700 total, to start off with, that's why I was wondering is plug shouls be based on total hp, or hit size. I don't know exactly what the n/a hp will be (the build is just starting and only have the lower end mapped out so far), however, it's being built to handle 1000hp total for a later time.
Robert

 

Wow, that sounds great 820 on first stage. Thats pretty comparable to mine when it was jetted for 200 it made 830 on Murillo's Dyno. I then jetted it up to 400 single stage but never took it back to the dyno. Good luck!

 

not that i know too much, and i do mean that. 0.030 to 0.035 is a good range to be in for gap.

base plug selection on what you plan on hitting it with. ie. if it is a 300 hundred hit, then jump up in plug heat range accordingly.

just my .02.

g'lcuk and most importantly have fun!!!!

 

I used to gap mine at 30 and have dropped down to 28.

Robert - I'd still go a number 9 at 700 total. I see your comment on built for 1000rwhp, just don't forget most of us that built for big nitrous have the parts to handle a lot of HP/gas, but don't have the ability to keep from pushing water. You really should consider the 6 bolt stuff if you want to push it really hard.

 

For what its worth...the 1300 temps were hot for the 7's hes running. Hell its actually cold for power making EGTs that the big backhalf cars see. Move the EGT's up closer to 1600-1800 for the real pretty blue flame coming out the headers but I wouldnt **** with nothing but a NGk 10 or 11 that hot with the 116 you are running.

If i have the math correct this proves the point above considering it is a purpose built nitrous motor. 560rwhp NA 820rwhp on the sauce. 240 increase at the wheels. Not too good. Colder plugs, lean on the tune and watch the numbers respond. Dial in that first stage 1st before even thinking about grabbing number 2. Thats when things really get tricky.

 

Thanks, yea, that'll be my next issue to deal with-pushing water. I almost went with a 427 l92, but have so much stuff that I went with the 408 iron to save on $$ (changed from 402 ls2).

Hey can you post a link to that plug viewer you found?
Robert

 

I don't think this is a conflict with any sponsor as I've never seen one anywhere.

Here's the magnifier -

http://www.pgiinc.com/30xilmic.html

It is a bit of trick to learn how to focus and view down into the base of the porcelein. If you really get serious you can cut the ground strap and it will be much easier.

 

Your an idiot. I mushroomed some valves on a maf kit spraying 300+ through a plastic intake. This is completely different and if I am not mistaken my car runs faster then your with me on motor and it can run on motor all the time with no problem. I have already said that colder plugs will go in it for the track. Manie runs these same plugs br7efs in his car with over 1100 to the tires. I know how to read a plug also and on the dyno it was not to hot of a plug but that is not to say it wouldn't be on the track and that is why I plan on being safe at the track. With the tune that is in it right now the plugs are showing on the border of being to hot but are still ok. That is why I plan on doing a colder plug.

 

His **** runs 6.3s or so with everything on. He is the one around here that says he is not impressed unless it is a full weighted 3600lb car in the 5's. Even though his dumb *** has no idea how to get there. He talks **** to everyone around here. There are 5 people around here that are running 5s in a f-body and they were all built by this one shop. (RPM) He tells everyone around here how much faster he could make all these cars run if he was going it. The fastest that I have been in a F-body is a 5.56@125.

 

I thought it was John Force the way he was talking



.

 

+1 forsure