820rwhp on 1st stage
You don't suppose I could bother the big horsepower guys with a plug/gap recommendation for a 450RWHP heads/cam/built 347 with
Option 1: 150-200 single stage (TR7's at ~.032?)
Option 2: 300 dual stage in 150/150 or so.... (8-9's at around .028?)
It's around 11.3:1CR, 93 intank, 116 in cell, ~24 degrees with the small single stage and around 20 degrees timing with the 300...
Option 1: 150-200 single stage (TR7's at ~.032?)
Option 2: 300 dual stage in 150/150 or so.... (8-9's at around .028?)
It's around 11.3:1CR, 93 intank, 116 in cell, ~24 degrees with the small single stage and around 20 degrees timing with the 300...
Last edited by Lythropus; Apr 20, 2007 at 08:28 PM.
Originally Posted by GueSS Who
Your an idiot. I mushroomed some valves on a maf kit spraying 300+ through a plastic intake. This is completely different and if I am not mistaken my car runs faster then your with me on motor and it can run on motor all the time with no problem. I have already said that colder plugs will go in it for the track. Manie runs these same plugs br7efs in his car with over 1100 to the tires. I know how to read a plug also and on the dyno it was not to hot of a plug but that is not to say it wouldn't be on the track and that is why I plan on being safe at the track. With the tune that is in it right now the plugs are showing on the border of being to hot but are still ok. That is why I plan on doing a colder plug.
Originally Posted by 1936FordPU
So because someone else runs them on the ragged edge makes it ok for you to put them in your RACE car. I still remember 2 years ago you calling me asking for the part number for the 8's to run in your car. LMFAO. You still havent learned **** but to spend money money money on blowing up good parts.
Holy **** !
It is John Force
Originally Posted by 1936FordPU
So because someone else runs them on the ragged edge makes it ok for you to put them in your RACE car. I still remember 2 years ago you calling me asking for the part number for the 8's to run in your car. LMFAO. You still havent learned **** but to spend money money money on blowing up good parts.
Dont turn this thread into something personal. Lots of great info here. Either keep it on track with tech discussion only or dont participate. Its as simple as that.
Originally Posted by Lythropus
You don't suppose I could bother the big horsepower guys with a plug/gap recommendation for a 450RWHP heads/cam/built 347 with
Option 1: 150-200 single stage (TR7's at ~.032?)
Option 2: 300 dual stage in 150/150 or so.... (8-9's at around .028?)
It's around 11.3:1CR, 93 intank, 116 in cell, ~24 degrees with the small single stage and around 20 degrees timing with the 300...
Option 1: 150-200 single stage (TR7's at ~.032?)
Option 2: 300 dual stage in 150/150 or so.... (8-9's at around .028?)
It's around 11.3:1CR, 93 intank, 116 in cell, ~24 degrees with the small single stage and around 20 degrees timing with the 300...
As a general rule of thumb, start with a 6 on the 150, then go up one heat range for every 50hp of gas. I think I used to start at .035 on the TR6 and then go down from there as you go up in gas.
Originally Posted by 1936FordPU
So because someone else runs them on the ragged edge makes it ok for you to put them in your RACE car. I still remember 2 years ago you calling me asking for the part number for the 8's to run in your car. LMFAO. You still havent learned **** but to spend money money money on blowing up good parts.
Actually for more info on this for everyone. I used to use 8's and even 9's sometimes with my old setup. Till I found the BR7EF. When I found that another shop car around here was using them on their shop car that made over 1100 and never fawled out nor ever took a electrode off. Those plugs we used in the Black car that went 5.56@125 that some of you have seen on here before. Never had a problem not one time. That car made 720 to the tires and they were just right with C16 gas.
The only reason that I spend money is to keep my car running. Things happen and we all learn from them. This tool that is quoted above still has a blown up car because he knows so much about tunning and plugs. LOL Maybe one day you should call me and ask me how to go fast. I wouldn't tell you though because you are a dick and everyone knows it. You think you know everything about LS1s but you don't. The boys you have been hanging out with over there have been making remarks about you being a dumbass but atleast your trying. LOL You have already been run off from every shop around here because you are so shady and I don't even think you need to be in my thread. You can make your own thread telling people how to go fast. LOL Since you have been so fast or even know anyone in a LS1 that has. The Houston boys even said your dumbass.
Originally Posted by 1936FordPU
Carma's a bitch aint it. If you didnt talk **** all the time about what you are going to do, and instead just do it and let the car speak for itself I wouldnt be clowning on your stupid ***. You always struggle and fall short because you truly are a ******* idiot. Hell, I wouldnt tell no one i had a 7 in my car making 800 hp!!!! But instead, you blew some more **** up last friday. You should buy stock in your piston manufacturer!!!! Then hire you someone that can build a motor to hold together and have it tuned before you even put it in the car. That way the tune is far closer then you will ever get it doing it by yourself. Oh I forget to mention. BOOOM BITCH!
Kickin a man when he's down
I have a question for you though... Have you been faster than GueSS who ?
Ya man lay off, or your gunna get the ban hammer smackdown
.
This thread has alot of great info in it and im trying to learn about all this stuff and your making the thread a cluster ****, so if you cant add to the knowledge of the thread then
So would the CI of your motor have anything to do with what plugs and Gap they should be ran at? Im wanting to do a 347 this summer and im just learning before i actually do it. I plan on a dual stage myself maybe just a 250 though. So that would mean like what plug? at what Gap would be preferred? SOrry bout the hijack just trying to learn all i can
. This thread has alot of great info in it and im trying to learn about all this stuff and your making the thread a cluster ****, so if you cant add to the knowledge of the thread then
So would the CI of your motor have anything to do with what plugs and Gap they should be ran at? Im wanting to do a 347 this summer and im just learning before i actually do it. I plan on a dual stage myself maybe just a 250 though. So that would mean like what plug? at what Gap would be preferred? SOrry bout the hijack just trying to learn all i can
Originally Posted by 1936FordPU
When my car was together, yes.
Originally Posted by GueSS Who
His **** runs 6.3s or so with everything on. He is the one around here that says he is not impressed unless it is a full weighted 3600lb car in the 5's. Even though his dumb *** has no idea how to get there. He talks **** to everyone around here. There are 5 people around here that are running 5s in a f-body and they were all built by this one shop. (RPM) He tells everyone around here how much faster he could make all these cars run if he was going it. The fastest that I have been in a F-body is a 5.56@125.
Originally Posted by ATVracr

Story is he lifted a ring land or two and the pistons are on order and should be here anyday. Of course he will deny the fact that anything is wrong. But this is direct from the cats mouth who tunes his ****.
Originally Posted by Noyzee
the personal attacks stop now!!
keep this thread on topic or its locked, keep the personal attacks up and
keep this thread on topic or its locked, keep the personal attacks up and

as i said in my post i wouldlike to learn and get some help on my setup Actually for those to know..........Unfortunately one of my nitrous solenoids had a peice of metal in the plunger. I didn't realize it nor did anyone else....I mean how can you? I started the car up and it split a hole in the sheetmetal intake. I have 2 burst disks but they didn't burst damnit. It is easy to fix and my buddy is a bad *** at welding aluminum....It split at a weld......As far as the passes at the track, we were just 60fting the car. 1st pass, to much fuel and kinda studdering...(This is the 1st pass on the bottle that I have done in 1.5 years.) 2nd pass, tuner did some work on the tune and we leaned it out a little with the regulator. With a .3 delay the car rode out on the bars with a 1.32 60ft with the drag radials. We went to do some more tuning and I was going to make a full pass...It was one of the last passes of the night for anyone and the track was getting way cold. The car spun and I let out at the 100ft.........When I got back to the pits, I left everything on like usual and didn't worry about it. I got ready to put it on the trailer and when I started it the intake blew up. When I got home I pulled the intake and it looked easy to repair. I took the solenoid apart and found the sliver of aluminum. I was scared that I might have done something else in the bottom end. I tore the heads off of it and there was nothing wrong. All pistons were in tact and heads were fine. No problems here except for an unfortunate solenoid leak.
As far as my dad dying........He left my mom just enough to pay her house off and me nor my sisters got anything. The reason I can put money into my car and keep it running, unlike you Mike is I make 3 times more money than you do.
The car will be up and running again soon. I am fixing the intake now and I want to send the intake and nitrous kit to get it flowed by Wilson Manifold. I have talked with the tech there and he said he can make the distribution on the fogger a lot better. The EGTs are off quite abit from each other and I don't want to make a full pass like that. I am trying to take every precaution I can.
My car runs faster on motor then his ever did on bottle. LOL
And much faster on the bottle in multiple cars.
<-Guess Who ?
As far as my dad dying........He left my mom just enough to pay her house off and me nor my sisters got anything. The reason I can put money into my car and keep it running, unlike you Mike is I make 3 times more money than you do.
The car will be up and running again soon. I am fixing the intake now and I want to send the intake and nitrous kit to get it flowed by Wilson Manifold. I have talked with the tech there and he said he can make the distribution on the fogger a lot better. The EGTs are off quite abit from each other and I don't want to make a full pass like that. I am trying to take every precaution I can.
Originally Posted by 1936FordPU
When my car was together, yes.
And much faster on the bottle in multiple cars.
<-Guess Who ?
BTW......I hardly doubt you heard anything from my tuners mouth, since he hates your guts and says he is going to whip your *** if he sees you at the track again. LOL
That was straight from the tuners mouth.
That was straight from the tuners mouth.





