nitrous pull....
99 SS M6
42lb injectors
lid
longtubes
dual cutouts
stock catback
12bolt
3.73 gears
NOS dry kit
here are my numbers.
337/348 cutouts closed N/A
344/356 cutouts open N/A
408/444 cutouts closed 100 shot
434/476 cutouts open 100 shot
435/490 cutouts open 150 shot
it just finished raining and the temp was 94 in the shop. the humidity was over 85% too. my AFR was reading under 12 to 1. she has been running rich as **** lately and i know i need new O2s too. all runs were with stock spark plugs also. bottle pressure was right at 900psi. does this seem right? i know NOS rates to the flywheel but i think i should have made alil more power, especially torque. let me know what you guys think.
Last edited by LastLT1; Jun 3, 2007 at 07:27 PM.
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P.S. i also know i have a 12bolt and 3.73 gears so that will eat up some.... they ate up 20hp just on motor only.
Last edited by LastLT1; Jun 4, 2007 at 11:00 AM.
P.S. i also know i have a 12bolt and 3.73 gears so that will eat up some.... they ate up 20hp just on motor only.
Plugs being burned out in nitrous motors is usually due to a severely lean condition that probably wouldnt be helped even with a colder plug.
All that being said, back to the OP questions. Nitrous is pressure dependent. Drops in pressure means drops in power. Too rich? Add more N2O. Increase the pressure, or increase the jet size. Are you logging while you're sprayin on the dyno? Is it pulling timing? That would cost you a few HP, not a bunch but some.
Did you adjust the ifr in the tune? If not that would be a good reason for it to run rich. I'd get a bung in the header so you can see the a/f with the dump open. Or use a longer tube on the WB on the dyno, to get up in there farther.
Regardless, this is all stuff they should know over there.....
If you are rich, increasing pressure or jet sizes will not help in a dry kit. The MAF is reading the amount of N2O and adding fuel. Actually, you want to be rich. The bigger the shot, the more rich you want to be really to be safe. Your 12.0:1 is perfect for 100-125rwhp. After that, I would get closer to 11.5:1. You really need a TR6 or colder for ANY N2O. This will also cause KR and other bad stuff to happen. Nozzle placement is also a factor.
and ed, yes the ifr was changed to handle the 42lb injectors before it went on the dyno. also remember when you tuned it for me, we couldnt use the wideband because of the dual cutouts. you had to tune it thru the stock catback with the cutouts closed.... so no i couldnt log and afr during the runs.
If you are rich, increasing pressure or jet sizes will not help in a dry kit. The MAF is reading the amount of N2O and adding fuel. Actually, you want to be rich. The bigger the shot, the more rich you want to be really to be safe. Your 12.0:1 is perfect for 100-125rwhp. After that, I would get closer to 11.5:1. You really need a TR6 or colder for ANY N2O. This will also cause KR and other bad stuff to happen. Nozzle placement is also a factor.
I do agree with the colder plug for N2O, but the way it was referenced earlier just didnt make sense. Alot of people dont understand spark plug heat range.
and ed, yes the ifr was changed to handle the 42lb injectors before it went on the dyno. also remember when you tuned it for me, we couldnt use the wideband because of the dual cutouts. you had to tune it thru the stock catback with the cutouts closed.... so no i couldnt log and afr during the runs.

