Two burned plugs....
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From: Chattanooga,TN
Two burned plugs.... When my car was dynoed it was very rich on the spray. I went to the track a couple a weeks ago and on my very last pass the car had some detonation. I drove the car home and the car drove fine. Well it started to run bad so I check the plugss and two plugs were burned. The second and forth cylinder on the driver's side. I decided to check the compression, all my cylinders checked out at 205 psi except for the the second and third cylinder on the driver's side. The second was 180 psi. The the third was 125 psi but it had a desent looking plug. The last cylinder on the driver's side had a burnt plug but it had great compression.
Could I have a blown head gasket? My coolant and oil look good. My car is not running hot and it doesn't smoke that I can tell. The only reason why I asked about the head gasket is because of the two lowest pressure cylinders are next to each other.
The car runs okay as far as I can tell. It doesn't make any more noise than usual. Would a burnt valve or burnt ringland make any noise?
Could I have a blown head gasket? My coolant and oil look good. My car is not running hot and it doesn't smoke that I can tell. The only reason why I asked about the head gasket is because of the two lowest pressure cylinders are next to each other.
The car runs okay as far as I can tell. It doesn't make any more noise than usual. Would a burnt valve or burnt ringland make any noise?
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Thanks for the response I'm going to go get a lead down compression test and see what happens.
Is there something that I'm doing wrong when when asking for help? I always do a search first before I start a post. It's like pulling teeth to get anyone to respond to my plea for help.
Is there something that I'm doing wrong when when asking for help? I always do a search first before I start a post. It's like pulling teeth to get anyone to respond to my plea for help.
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From: sneaking in your back door as you leave!/cartersville ga
just do like everyone else and just ask questions. and state that you did not search. and you will get flamed long enough that it will keep your thread at top and you will get an answer eventually.
but this may help on the leakdown test.
get engine up to operating temp. or you will not get accurate readings.
find tdc for #1 and start w/ #1 then mark the crank and oil pan w/ a line. rotate crank 1/4 round at a time and check leakdown in order of firing order. it will take 2 revolutions of crank to check all cyl's. if each piston is not excactly on tdc when you put air to it. it will spin the motor. so be sure to take you pull bar off of your crank socket.
by the way. i have a leak-down tester if you need to borrow one (cartersville ga). arent you the same 1orangews6 on street car forums?
but this may help on the leakdown test.
get engine up to operating temp. or you will not get accurate readings.
find tdc for #1 and start w/ #1 then mark the crank and oil pan w/ a line. rotate crank 1/4 round at a time and check leakdown in order of firing order. it will take 2 revolutions of crank to check all cyl's. if each piston is not excactly on tdc when you put air to it. it will spin the motor. so be sure to take you pull bar off of your crank socket.
by the way. i have a leak-down tester if you need to borrow one (cartersville ga). arent you the same 1orangews6 on street car forums?
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From: Chattanooga,TN
Originally Posted by red83
just do like everyone else and just ask questions. and state that you did not search. and you will get flamed long enough that it will keep your thread at top and you will get an answer eventually.
but this may help on the leakdown test.
get engine up to operating temp. or you will not get accurate readings.
find tdc for #1 and start w/ #1 then mark the crank and oil pan w/ a line. rotate crank 1/4 round at a time and check leakdown in order of firing order. it will take 2 revolutions of crank to check all cyl's. if each piston is not excactly on tdc when you put air to it. it will spin the motor. so be sure to take you pull bar off of your crank socket.
by the way. i have a leak-down tester if you need to borrow one (cartersville ga). arent you the same 1orangews6 on street car forums?
but this may help on the leakdown test.
get engine up to operating temp. or you will not get accurate readings.
find tdc for #1 and start w/ #1 then mark the crank and oil pan w/ a line. rotate crank 1/4 round at a time and check leakdown in order of firing order. it will take 2 revolutions of crank to check all cyl's. if each piston is not excactly on tdc when you put air to it. it will spin the motor. so be sure to take you pull bar off of your crank socket.
by the way. i have a leak-down tester if you need to borrow one (cartersville ga). arent you the same 1orangews6 on street car forums?
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From: Chattanooga,TN
Originally Posted by SILVERZZ28
You need fix the detonation problem as well
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From: sneaking in your back door as you leave!/cartersville ga
Originally Posted by 1ORANGEWS6
Yes sir I am the same on every board I'm on. That's seems like a lot to do for a leak down test. I have heard some many different ways to test the cylinder compression.
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From: sneaking in your back door as you leave!/cartersville ga
i do, but its not a car shop. its were we work on my equipment and trucks, but i work on my cars at home to stay away from the shop. its hard to work on anything when you got people asking you 2.4 million questions about nothing at all.
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From: Chattanooga,TN
Originally Posted by red83
i do, but its not a car shop. its were we work on my equipment and trucks, but i work on my cars at home to stay away from the shop. its hard to work on anything when you got people asking you 2.4 million questions about nothing at all.
Yes I know what you mean a buddy and I put some new additions on the car this weekend and we had bunch of questions thrown at us. I still need to put the front shocks on and the sub frame connectors but time ran out on us. The 12 bolt is in now and it whinned from the start is that normal?
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From: sneaking in your back door as you leave!/cartersville ga
12-bolts are known for this. it may quieten down a little. 9'' rearends are a lot quieter. the 12bolts get quieter then get louder the more runs you put on them, but thats the price you pay for reliability. let me know if i can help.
Originally Posted by red83
12-bolts are known for this. it may quieten down a little. 9'' rearends are a lot quieter. the 12bolts get quieter then get louder the more runs you put on them, but thats the price you pay for reliability. let me know if i can help.
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From: Chattanooga,TN
Originally Posted by red83
12-bolts are known for this. it may quieten down a little. 9'' rearends are a lot quieter. the 12bolts get quieter then get louder the more runs you put on them, but thats the price you pay for reliability. let me know if i can help.
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From: sneaking in your back door as you leave!/cartersville ga
i have some moser wheel studs not a complete, but they are new. i ncan measure them if you will remind me. i know they are longer than the ones moser puts in
