kind of new to the nitrous ls1 game and need some advice.

current engine mods on car

3.73 gear in stock 10 bolt
recently rebuilt, but still sucks
lid
free mods
granatelli maf
flowmaster cat back
powerbond 25% under drive pulley
nitrous express wet kit plumbed into the bellows with all the goodies
bottle blanket
fuel pressure safety switch
rpm window switch at 3K-5400rpm
purge
stock fuel system

dynoed 315rwhp before underdrive pulley without tuning so hopefully 100 shot with some dyno tuning and the pulley puts me at 400rwhp+

now i'm about to take my car to get it tuned on a dyno for the nitrous, would like to run a 100 shot and am wondering how much getting headers/y pipe will increase my margin of safety once i start spraying due to decreased back pressure and decreased combustion chamber temp?


i really am happy with my car the way it is now and dont want to make it louder or lose ground clearance or anything and doing headers will be expensive since i dont have a garage and will need to have a shop do it. but if using stock exhaust manifold will increase my chance of detonating while i'm spraying then i will have to get headers/y pipe done since the headers are cheaper than a new motor.

how many of you guys have been spraying 75-100 shot with stock manifold for a long time?

also i dont plan on sticky tires and only plan to use the nitrous on the freeway so hopefully the stock rear end will hold together abit longer


any input would appreciated!

 

Well, the headers won't really make your car any safer, but it will allow the nitrous to work more effectively. Nitrous increases exhaust gas output quite a bit, and the easier it is for that exhaust gas to leave, the more power you'll make with the same nitrous jet They'll make an obvious difference in N/A performance, but they should be even more beneficial for the nitrous.

 

thanks man! i'm still pretty new to this, first car i've owned since i started making any money to mod with

so would you say that same motor...

one with 100 shot and stock exhaust

one with 100 shot and full exhaust


both will have the same amount of reliability?

i would like to do the headers, but i really like the way my car is now and i would like to not spend the extra $1000 the headers will cost me with labor i need to pay also if i can avoid it, i hope 400rwhp will be enough to keep me entertained at least for a little while >

 

man your car looks like exactly what i'm looking to build actually... i'll probably go with ls6 heads and a slightly more aggressive cam but that is a bad *** street car you have there !

any dyno numbers n/a and on the bottle ? also did you ever spray it way back when you had the stock exhaust ?

 

Thanks for the complement.

Made 420rwhp/400rwtq (340rwtq @ 3000rpms) last year on a Dynojet with an LS6 intake and the stock 10-bolt.

Added FAST 90 and Ford 9" with 3.89s over the winter and haven't had it tuned for that stuff yet. I'll just wait until next spring now since I should have a new shortblock and a dual-stage dry/wet combo around 250rwhp.

Best 1/4 this year is an 11.92@118 with a 1.83 60'. Need to learn how to get off the line with the 6spd.

Haven't sprayed the car yet because I'm trying to decide if I have a bad ring or not. Need to run a compression test, but I'm getting a lot of blowby through the PCV system (valve cover or valley cover, doesn't matter how I hook it up!). When I put the motor together (stock 30k mile shortblock with ARP rod bolts and new bearings) there was a bit of rust on one of the cylinder walls that wouldn't clean up with a scotchbrite pad, but the shop told me I should be okay to go with it and the rings will clean it up. Well...not so sure they did So I'm sure I'm losing even more power there.

 

nice man, on the bottle you've got a 10 second car probably thats what i'm talking about!

anyone else here spray stock ls1's for a long time without any issues? any comments?

 

bump bump

 

assuming the tank is always 1/4 full or more, how many miles would be reasonable to expect from one of these fuel pumps matt?