What's the result of a 300 shot w/ TR6's & 26 degrees timing? What about a 200 shot?
11-04-2007, 07:47 PM
#21
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Mike I bet your motor is toast.. You should have run a colder plug with that much spray even if it is just to be safe. Hope for the best but expect the worst.
11-04-2007, 07:53 PM
#22
Robert
11-04-2007, 08:24 PM
#23
when my motor killed the ring lands on 5 and 7 it was ofcourse smoking pretty good, but it was similar in idle (minus the weird sounds) but it had a nasty pop on startup and some weird erratic idle.
11-04-2007, 09:03 PM
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IMO plugs are secondary to timing and octane. You can get away with a much hotter plug with alot of octane and alot of timing retard. Obviously all three play a part. But I have run TR6 many mnay times on a 300+ shot in a pinch...but I always made sure I had a bit more octane to cover the detonation resistance.
Play it safe with all three (timing, heat range and octane) But I put heat range of plugs just behind timing and octane in order of importance. Thats assuming your atleast CLOSE on heat range. Obviously at some point a VERY hot plug will cause detonation or preignition regardless of octane and timing. Same can be said of the other two parameters as well.
Play it safe with all three (timing, heat range and octane) But I put heat range of plugs just behind timing and octane in order of importance. Thats assuming your atleast CLOSE on heat range. Obviously at some point a VERY hot plug will cause detonation or preignition regardless of octane and timing. Same can be said of the other two parameters as well.
11-04-2007, 10:08 PM
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i just had the same problem and sounds like we have the same setup on the nos big shot plate i had th 225 pills in it and it made 320hp on the 225s, i was running a tr6 with 20 degrees of timing and 1100 bottle pressure, 5.5psi on dedicated system. Motor has 13:1 comp before the junk. 101 unleaded in dedicated and in tank for motor. BIG mistake i foun out on my 4th pass. The noise you might be hearing might be like mine was and fire slotted the head. It cut a large grove in the head and sliced through the cometic gasket like a knife. didnt know if it was the plate kit or what i dont know now if i should go to a fogger or what. i torched all the plugs on the passenger side(fire slotted side) but the driver side had no indication of anythingwrong at all. dont know what the solution is i figure it was everything not enough octane, too hot of a plug and maybe not the right amount of timing. dont mean to try to ride in on your thread but sounds like we are in similar situations currently. how many times have you sprayed yours through the plate kit??
11-04-2007, 10:32 PM
#27
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Mike what compression are your running. that plays a role in timing also. Where I could get away with 14/16 degrees with a 300shot and 11.25:1 compression, Guesswho could not with his 12.5:1 compression. So timing is relative to size shot and compression amongst other parameters.
Robert
Robert
11.25:1 or so. ballpark but close enough iirc.
11-04-2007, 11:38 PM
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When you are TNTing at the track you don't start off with 6s.......You start with 8-10s and work down. You can read heat range on a plug and also timing......I agree somewhat to 383LQ4SS because I used BR7EFs and made 860 to the tires with no problems at all. I put 10s in for the track and we are pretty close on for heat range.
All of Mikeys and Jeff's problems can be fixed with READING YOUR PLUGS......and not at the end of the pass if you are not going to get in the ball park first. Take a 330 pass and check you plugs. Coast around and pull them out.....Put new ones in for the first 10 times down the track while you are watching very closely......Inch your way to the 1/4 mile and see how big of a difference it really makes. No one here needs to be blowing their **** up. DETINAION is not our friend so stop allowing it to overcome your motors. Pull lots of timing out and run cold plugs with cold gas.....Then work your way hotter instead of the other way around. Timing on the dyno doesn't effect the torque numbers at all. Torque is what gets you down the track so pull some timing. I bet you can't pull enough out. When you think you have pull some more out and it will go faster. We are living proof.
All of Mikeys and Jeff's problems can be fixed with READING YOUR PLUGS......and not at the end of the pass if you are not going to get in the ball park first. Take a 330 pass and check you plugs. Coast around and pull them out.....Put new ones in for the first 10 times down the track while you are watching very closely......Inch your way to the 1/4 mile and see how big of a difference it really makes. No one here needs to be blowing their **** up. DETINAION is not our friend so stop allowing it to overcome your motors. Pull lots of timing out and run cold plugs with cold gas.....Then work your way hotter instead of the other way around. Timing on the dyno doesn't effect the torque numbers at all. Torque is what gets you down the track so pull some timing. I bet you can't pull enough out. When you think you have pull some more out and it will go faster. We are living proof.
11-05-2007, 01:09 AM
#29
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When you are TNTing at the track you don't start off with 6s.......You start with 8-10s and work down. You can read heat range on a plug and also timing......I agree somewhat to 383LQ4SS because I used BR7EFs and made 860 to the tires with no problems at all. I put 10s in for the track and we are pretty close on for heat range.
All of Mikeys and Jeff's problems can be fixed with READING YOUR PLUGS......and not at the end of the pass if you are not going to get in the ball park first. Take a 330 pass and check you plugs. Coast around and pull them out.....Put new ones in for the first 10 times down the track while you are watching very closely......Inch your way to the 1/4 mile and see how big of a difference it really makes. No one here needs to be blowing their **** up. DETINAION is not our friend so stop allowing it to overcome your motors. Pull lots of timing out and run cold plugs with cold gas.....Then work your way hotter instead of the other way around. Timing on the dyno doesn't effect the torque numbers at all. Torque is what gets you down the track so pull some timing. I bet you can't pull enough out. When you think you have pull some more out and it will go faster. We are living proof.
All of Mikeys and Jeff's problems can be fixed with READING YOUR PLUGS......and not at the end of the pass if you are not going to get in the ball park first. Take a 330 pass and check you plugs. Coast around and pull them out.....Put new ones in for the first 10 times down the track while you are watching very closely......Inch your way to the 1/4 mile and see how big of a difference it really makes. No one here needs to be blowing their **** up. DETINAION is not our friend so stop allowing it to overcome your motors. Pull lots of timing out and run cold plugs with cold gas.....Then work your way hotter instead of the other way around. Timing on the dyno doesn't effect the torque numbers at all. Torque is what gets you down the track so pull some timing. I bet you can't pull enough out. When you think you have pull some more out and it will go faster. We are living proof.
excellent advice for sure
11-05-2007, 03:42 AM
#31
pre-ignition is what breaks parts instantly. Detonation (2nd ignition after the plug fires) causes hot spots (ground straps, carbon deposits, etc) in the combustion chamber which in turn pre-ignites the charge while the piston is starting to move up (usually ~180 deg. BTDC) causing massive cylinder pressures.
But that's a bit off topic..
Having never done what the OP suggested I can't offer any personal advise, but I was only running 23 deg on a 150 shot w/ tr6's. Take the fast guys advise, they know what they're talking about.
11-05-2007, 07:05 AM
#32
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i just had the same problem and sounds like we have the same setup on the nos big shot plate i had th 225 pills in it and it made 320hp on the 225s, i was running a tr6 with 20 degrees of timing and 1100 bottle pressure, 5.5psi on dedicated system. Motor has 13:1 comp before the junk. 101 unleaded in dedicated and in tank for motor. BIG mistake i foun out on my 4th pass. The noise you might be hearing might be like mine was and fire slotted the head. It cut a large grove in the head and sliced through the cometic gasket like a knife. didnt know if it was the plate kit or what i dont know now if i should go to a fogger or what. i torched all the plugs on the passenger side(fire slotted side) but the driver side had no indication of anythingwrong at all. dont know what the solution is i figure it was everything not enough octane, too hot of a plug and maybe not the right amount of timing. dont mean to try to ride in on your thread but sounds like we are in similar situations currently. how many times have you sprayed yours through the plate kit??
11-05-2007, 07:15 AM
#33
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your running that dual spray bar plate kit from nx?
i can tell you part of your un even issue is in the distribution line hooking to the plate if your using the one that comes with it.
for what its worth i run 117 in tank and stand alone. 9's with the 200 shot and 28* of timming with 7 psi in the fuel. im a little fat (reading the plugs and on the wide band) and my timming could use a couple more * in the mid range. all this might change with the new heads, but thats what i saw end of the season.
my buddy runs 30* with his stange. tr9's with a 400 **** right out of the hole, not 2 stage no progressive.
i can tell you part of your un even issue is in the distribution line hooking to the plate if your using the one that comes with it.
for what its worth i run 117 in tank and stand alone. 9's with the 200 shot and 28* of timming with 7 psi in the fuel. im a little fat (reading the plugs and on the wide band) and my timming could use a couple more * in the mid range. all this might change with the new heads, but thats what i saw end of the season.
my buddy runs 30* with his stange. tr9's with a 400 **** right out of the hole, not 2 stage no progressive.
11-05-2007, 08:56 AM
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your running that dual spray bar plate kit from nx?
i can tell you part of your un even issue is in the distribution line hooking to the plate if your using the one that comes with it.
for what its worth i run 117 in tank and stand alone. 9's with the 200 shot and 28* of timming with 7 psi in the fuel. im a little fat (reading the plugs and on the wide band) and my timming could use a couple more * in the mid range. all this might change with the new heads, but thats what i saw end of the season.
my buddy runs 30* with his stange. tr9's with a 400 **** right out of the hole, not 2 stage no progressive.
i can tell you part of your un even issue is in the distribution line hooking to the plate if your using the one that comes with it.
for what its worth i run 117 in tank and stand alone. 9's with the 200 shot and 28* of timming with 7 psi in the fuel. im a little fat (reading the plugs and on the wide band) and my timming could use a couple more * in the mid range. all this might change with the new heads, but thats what i saw end of the season.
my buddy runs 30* with his stange. tr9's with a 400 **** right out of the hole, not 2 stage no progressive.
The car was originally tuned on 116 race gas..... at the track I put 109 in it and made 3 more bottle passes
Wed night I figured It was safe since I was on only a 200 shot.... come to find out the shop said the pills where still the 300's..... it ran like it was only on the 200's so I didnt think nothing of it. Car pulls much harder on a 300..... I figure I hurt it the first run...... and proceeded to keep stabbing it about 3 or 4 more times
Noyzee.... btw, I am running the standalone on high psi.... at 40psi to be exact.
