I missed that part in the thread; we don't include taps in any of our kits. Per the installation manual:

In the LT1 and LS1 applications you will need to splice into the TAN wire on the IAT sensor. An in-line splice can be used or a small section of the plastic insulation can be striped off. Then wrap the GRAY wire around the TAN IAT wire and use some solder for the connection and wrap with heat shrink tubing or electrical tape. See Appendix A at the end of this manual for a wiring diagram.

Jpr5690 am I correct that your kit is pre-maf and the maf is reading the nitrous when activated?

Thanks,
Matt

 

You Are Correct.. Im Actually No Longer Using Your Fueling Portion Of The Interface As I Was Scared Into Buying Something To Correct My Fueling Because I Thought The Halo Would Not Be Read By The Maf

In Actuality The Halo Is Leaving Me A Little Too Rich

But Back To The Point I Noticed When I Set The Shot Up It Threw A Code..

Mabye This Was Due To The Combination Of The Interface's Effect On The Maf Siginal And The Already Elevated Maf Signal That The N20 Caused.. (im Not Sure)

In The End Im Still Happy For Pulling Timeing This Is Still The Cheepest Device On The Market (to Pull Timeing) And You Get Free Fueling Adjustments

The Iat Wire Needs To Be Soidered As If Its Loose Your Iat Temps Will Fluctuate Everey Time You Hit A Bump... I Cannot Stress This Enough As With A 5v Signal The Wire Is Extra Senstive To Viberation

 

Do you remember what code it was?

Matt

 

Maf Voltage High.. Dont Remember The #

 

Robert,

no big deal right now, i think matt cleared up the the issue with electrical connector. We are always willing to hear feeback on our products whether its negative or positive. I am not sure if he did so yet, but the tech link matt provided is the very best way to get our attention and get your questions answered.

i see you guys have a personal issue which i hope you can work out.

thanks, Mike

 

Come on guys. Keep this strictly tech and strictly facts that you can backup as a certainty.
The rest is not needed.

JPR there is no need to shout in caps.

 

AAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!! j/k.

 

The thing was though, user error, that's all, and trying to point it elsewhere, and this was not the only thread. Personal, not sure, as it was never before, anyway that part is removed and being dealt with, sorry about that.
Robert

 

 

Was the 01 ls1 pcm only capable of taking 3 degrees of timing out or was it 4.

say my timing is at 28 would the car be safe to hit a 150 shot at 25 or do I need to lower it a bit more for my N/A tune to like 25-27?

 

GOOD QUESTION IM RUNNING 24 DEG OF TIMEING ON MY 150 SHOT AND THAT MAY BE CONSERTIVE

THE STOCK TUNE IS SETUP UP FOR 3 DEG OF TIMING BUT I AM NOT SURE IF EVEN THAT GETS PULLED IN THE UPPER RPMS AS THERE IS A MODIFER TABLE THAT LESSENS THIS VALUE...

MY STOCK TABLE LOOKED LIKE THIS:
RPMS: 0 400 800 1200 1600 2000 2400 2800 3200 3600 4000 4400 4800 5200 5600 6000 6400 6800 7200 7600 8000
Multiplier 1.00000 1.00000 1.00000 0.93604 0.90991 0.89990 0.88989 0.86499 0.84009 0.81494 0.78296 0.76001 0.74609 0.72998 0.70996 0.68994 0.66992 0.64990 0.62988 0.62988 0.62988

LONG STORY SHORT YOU WOULD BE PULLING SOME WHERE BETWEEN 1.5 AND 2 DEG OF TIMEING WHILE YOU WERE @ WOT BECAUSE THE MODIFER TABLE DOULD LESSEN THE SPARK RETARD AS THE RPMS INCREASE

HSW TOL ME THIS TABLE WAS NOT ACTIVE BUT UPON MY WHONE SCANNING IT SEEMS THAT IN MY CASE THIS TABLE WAS WORKING AND ACCORDINGLY I HAD TO SET ALL VALUES TO 1 BEFORE THE INTERFACE FUNCTIONED PROPERLY

 

For the most part, and most in the industry will say that no timing needs to be pulled on a 150 and below hit. This is given that stock timing has not been modified. Now can you run 28 and a 150, well we can't say for sure, you'll need to log. However, the reason for removing timing is not only safety based. If you read my timing pull write up, i explain, in pretty easy terms, why timing removal is needed. My self, I have run stock timing, in my '97 coupe and a 150hp hit with no issues what so ever. Now could I have actually made more power (with same shot) with less timing on the spray only, yes, more than likely and more safely to boot. It's kind of a catch 22 thing. If you can, I would pull a couple degrees. If you want to pull more than the stock tables allow, then going into the tune and adjusting for your chosen amount is all that's needed. While your there you can set up a few different timing pull curves. then depending on your size shot, you set the dip switches accordingly and bingo, your covered with multiple tunes. Not to many products can do this so easily, maybe none. I have mine set for three different scenarios, and am going to add one more. Such a powerful tuning tool.
Robert

 

you're saying you are making more power with less timing?

 

Im pretty sure thats exactly what he is saying if i read it correctly he is talking about making more power on the nitrous with a little less timing.

 

From what i understand what i am about to write is correct, let me know if im wrong lol


I am looking to get the interface to use on my wet tnt kit. I have a msd window switch. Shooting a 250 shot i could run my n/a tune at around 27 degrees of timing and then when i activate the nitrous i could have the interface pull ten degrees for the 250 shot?( this would be the only thing i would be using it for is a timing tuner basically) Im thinking correctly here ?

 

Yes, exactly. If you read the intro on the timing pull in my web, you will see what the spray does, it's not as volumetric efficient with to much timing. The motor is a air pump, and the spray causes things to become out of whack (the 4 strokes; intake, compression, ignition and exahaust) and not run as good as it could, though still better than stock with no spray. The bigger the hit, the more important this becomes (pulling timing).
Robert

 

well i guess my car is a freak since i made 10 more rwhp and 30 rwtq with more timing on the spray. all conditions were the same with the exception of timing.

 

Robert am i correct with this statement?

 

Yes, you can use the timing retard portion and not the A/F feature; they are both separate from each other. See the webpage for more info on application specific features:

http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/shop...age=1&featured

Thanks,
Matt

 

cool thanks for the post matt