gaping plugs for a 250 to 300 shot
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From: SPRINGFIELD MISSOURI
gaping plugs for a 250 to 300 shot Am i missing on where to gap plugs going to spray a 2 stage 100 +150 using the BR7 plug what gap should they be at with my mods in my sig. thanks
I would run a colder plug then that on a 250-300 shot. I had to run a tr-8 gapped at .030 on my old motor, which was a stock shortblock H/C with a 225-250 shot. It went 9.7's like this.
I run TR7's gapped at .030 with a 250 shot and pump gas... mid nines hundreds of times... However, with the gas quality going to **** these days, I won't do it anymore - switching to race fuel above 200 shot. On 300 shot I would go to a TR8 and gap at .030.
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Top be safe I'd start with a #9 plug and work your way up, seems like overkill but starting off too hot will hurt ****, starting off too cold will not. .030 to .035 gap should be fine, you gap the plugs too tight and the car will get harder to start
On The Tree
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From: Earth
have a 408 with 2 stages a 100 and a 200 shot and have tr6s in it that is what thay put in the car win thay were tuning it. I dont spray both stages that much but if i put TR7s in will the car run the same? i did have the TR8s in... it was fouling the plugs out win tuning so we put the TR6s back in it. If you don't drive the car much and just let it sit there and run it will start to foul out the plugs now with the Tr6s so will it foul out the TR7s faster? it has a 257/266 cam in it and was not EZ to tune.
Last edited by 408zo6; Jan 27, 2008 at 02:44 PM.
Even if it fouls the plugs, it's not gonna blow anything up, it's just gonna run like **** once they're foul'd
Personally, I put a set of #6 plugs in my car, use them to load the car on/off the trailer and warm it @ the track, go thru tech, all that. Then before I run it I swap a set of #9's in and make a run, and check at least a couple on the return road. If all looks o.k. I put them back in, go back to the pits and check every plug, if they look o.k. I will run them again, if anything doesn't look 100% I change all 8 and make whatever adjustment I have to. (bottle pressure, whatever)
When starting off with Nitrous, this is a must IMO if you want to learn the tuneup and make sure everythins is safe. Plus you can work your way up on the tune this way too, if it's a little lean with a cold plug the liklyhood of hurting something is alot less then if you start off with one that's too hot.
Keep in mind, I'm running a 13.5 to 1 compression 402 and am only on a 150 shot, and am using Torco 118Nos blend fuel, and a #9 heat range plug. Not that I have to, it's just safer. I probbaly could run 116 fuel and a #8 plug, but I'd just rather be safe.
Personally, I put a set of #6 plugs in my car, use them to load the car on/off the trailer and warm it @ the track, go thru tech, all that. Then before I run it I swap a set of #9's in and make a run, and check at least a couple on the return road. If all looks o.k. I put them back in, go back to the pits and check every plug, if they look o.k. I will run them again, if anything doesn't look 100% I change all 8 and make whatever adjustment I have to. (bottle pressure, whatever)
When starting off with Nitrous, this is a must IMO if you want to learn the tuneup and make sure everythins is safe. Plus you can work your way up on the tune this way too, if it's a little lean with a cold plug the liklyhood of hurting something is alot less then if you start off with one that's too hot.
Keep in mind, I'm running a 13.5 to 1 compression 402 and am only on a 150 shot, and am using Torco 118Nos blend fuel, and a #9 heat range plug. Not that I have to, it's just safer. I probbaly could run 116 fuel and a #8 plug, but I'd just rather be safe.
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From: Ft Bragg NC
Similar setup curious about particular gap I am currently plumbing a NX outlet 90mm 150 wet shot. I have NGK's and wondering about the gap on these plugs. I know theyre cold enough but just making sure I dont waste money fouling good plugs. If this is a retarded question please excuse the newbieness lol thanks guys
Gap them at .035 and you shoudn't have any problems. The only time you need to really gap them tighter is if you are spraying sp much it's blowing out the spark which at a 150 shot is not gonna be a problem.
Start with a #7 if it's a stock compression motor.
Plugs are a cheap tuning tool, and are easy to change, if you foul them out, you'll know, it will start hard when the car is cold, and will idle crappy. Better to start a little too cold and foul a set of plugs, then start too hot and melt a piston.
Start with a #7 if it's a stock compression motor.
Plugs are a cheap tuning tool, and are easy to change, if you foul them out, you'll know, it will start hard when the car is cold, and will idle crappy. Better to start a little too cold and foul a set of plugs, then start too hot and melt a piston.
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From: Ft Bragg NC
sweet I appriciate it my buddy and I did most of the plumbing today tomorrow......dum dum dum ...... wiring it wouldnt be too bad except I have more electronics on my bottle than half the car haha Also running the progressive controller and wide band stuff oh yeah and the hot wire stuff for the fuel pump YAY Im so looking forward to it. I work arund helicopters so swedging fittings and custom plumbing is no problem and free! If anyone has small plumbing jobs they want done (ie -3, an fittings and what not) just let me know.
Wish I knew ya about a week ago LOL, I just got all the **** I needed to do the brake lines over with my manual master cyl/aerospace front and rear brakes, the fittings and line were like 200 bucks, you probably coudl have saved me a whole boatload of $, especially if you lived closer LOL
You run a 250-300 shot on the dual nozzle in your sig? If so do you run a window switch, stand-alone? And where is your timing at?
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From: SPRINGFIELD MISSOURI
that is my old set up just running the intank pump im selling the tnt kit and just picked up a 2 stage nx kit. going to run a 100 off the line and a 150 behind that. And ive been talking to you guys about a stand alone and just bought the nos mini controller from you guys.
