Lets take a 346 w/ forged rotating assembly & H/C/I making ~450rwhp w/ supporting mods. Could you throw a 250 shot at it without getting too complicated? How 'bout a dry shot even, could a dry hit that large be reasonably well hidden?

Also, for fueling, would you need a dual pump setup, and how large of injectors? Lol I know it's a noob question but that's what I am when it comes to n2o, how long would a 15lb bottle last on a 250 progressive hit?

Price doesn't really matter, just getting a feel for it, as long as the solution is relatively reasonable. Thanks for your insight.

 

I think you will need to get some nitrous pistons, Forged H Beam Rods, Bearings, and ARP Bolts. I know that is the general list but i can get you everything specific for what LME gave me a quote on. I have read the stock crank is pretty damn good so you won't need to replace that. Your basically asking questions about the setup i want to build haha.

As for the type of kit, the TNT Wet kit is the only one i have experience with and it is very easy to use. You will have not problem throwing a 250 shot on a forged motor like the one i spoke of.

I was going to go with a Racetronix fuel set-up with BAP and a stand alone fuel system from nitrous outlet running some really hight octane fuel. I'm not sure what octane exactly yet. The one that mounts in the battery compartment is pretty nice from nitrous outlet is nice. As for injectors, I'm not sure if you calculate them with the total fly wheel horsepower or the amount of HP for the H/C set-up since the solenoid is spraying the additional fuel. I hope someone chimes in

Spark plugs is something you going to need NGK TR8 is probably going to be what you need. Good luck!

 

I was afraid I might need some TR-8's for such a large shot. How much of a hit in HP will I probably see N/A (assuming 450rwhp w/ stock heat rage plugs)?

The reason I'm asking about a dry kit (with big injectors) is because I want to eliminate the chance for nitrous backfires (fuel puddling in the intake) and they're much easier to hide... wet kits are dam near impossible make any less than blatently obvious they're there in my experience. Thanks.

 

IF you want a dry kit i would go with a single stage progressed direct port. Thats about as safe as it gets. You would most likely need dual pumps and a 60lb injector should have you covered. Cheaper alternative would probably be a dual nozzle wet shot with a standalone fuel cell. This would obviously step you down to a single walbro pump and 42lb injectors

 

A wet kit won't puddle as long as you spray in higher RPMs and at full throttle. I hear nitro dave has a a money maker kit. You should give him a call.

Im not too sure about how much horsepower you will lose because of the plugs. I know you can have a timing controller that will be RPM activated so you dont loose and power from the timing changes for nitrous.

 

Hell, you can do a 300 dry right down the throat of the motor with nozzles (been there done that) and run the HSW Interface for a/f and timing, and yes hidden. Check my web for injector sizing and fuel needs/pump sizing math and some options for upgrading the fuel system. Smart guy on running the dry. The wet hits are on there way out, old technology. Someone give me one good reason to run a wet hit over a dry hit? Have you seen the Interface thread and how it works?

What's your answer for the failing fuel noid? and yes this happens quite a bit. Lean backfire and resulting dislodging of the fuel rails and a burn to the ground can happen. Not a scare tactic just reality. Dry is safer, end of story.

Robert

 

I wasn't trying to say which was better or argue.

 

Really didn't know, though I always take an opportunity to point out the merits of the dry, as daily, people are still getting it wrong on the dry. Years of misinformation have really put the dry hit at a disadvantage. But things are slowly changing. So you know, I have much more experience with wet hits. If your happy, that's all that matters.
Robert

 

Thanks, i have read a lot of things you wrote, thanks for all of that stuff that is free on your web page BTW

 

Thanks. It's nice to know that some may have benifited as that's really my main goal, just to help if I can.
Robert

 

Yes, Yes... Robert has convinced many of us (myself included) about the benifits of dry.

 

Well why doesn't dry "hit" as hard as a wet kit? The initial torque spike is what makes wet so great.

 

Absolute and complete nonsense. This old wive's tale keeps going around because of ignorance concerning the dry hit, and the reason I go on and on about the dry. Seems you have not done your home work, please read the wet vs dry thread and this fabricated BS is covered completely. Bottom line, you introduce X amount of Nitrous and X amount of extra fuel in the same amounts, wet or dry, and the results will be the same, physics in it's absolute basic form. This is given that the timing and a/f along with bottle pressure are the same. Much of this nonsense comes from the early days when the only dry kit out there was the NOS 5177 that was rated at the crank; then guys would compare this to under rated kits like the TNT, so you end up comparing an 80rwhp shot to a 125rwhp shot and the associated torque difference. Check my fquick site for a better than 300rwtq increase with less than a 150rwhp shot, I'll put my dry up against any wet kit bar none, open challenge. Blew my bone stock ls6 with 685rwtq, lol. Not a busting of your *****, but it just never stops.
Robert

 

Check sig.......Dry kits hit just as hard as wet kits if they are tunned up right.



Just saying

Bottle pressure make more difference then anything else. You want a big hit on either system you just heat the bottle up more and lean out the mixture. I don't recommend doing this but so many people do it. I was guilty of it years ago. Lean is Mean except when your blow your motor up.

 

Maybe the dry hits ive seen were rated at the crank. its just that ever dry vs wet i've seen the wet hit a pretty good bit harder. Maybe thats it.

 

im not bashing dry, so dont get me wrong, its just so easy for me to tune wet kits on such a wide variety of platforms, it just seems way esier to me, maybe im just old school, i like my hole wet.lol

 

My car is jetting to a 300 shot and has two seperate fuel systems feeding out of the same tank.

If you are worried about power loss just run N/A plugs then put the spray plugs in when you spray.

My 300 shot plugs burn really rich all motor.

Yeah its a BBC but fuel and ignition is fuel and ignition.

I am starting from scratch with my plugs and on the motor I have a TR-7 if I remember right and the nitrous plugs I am going to start with a TR-9. I need to pull the plugs and check them and see if I need to go to a 6.

5XX rwhp all motor, 300 shot....

Hope that gives you an idea, allways start colder then you think you need to be safe.

 

That's cool, and true to a certain point. I think with the Interface, EFI Live COS 5 and the NX dry kit, the dry tuning is really becoming a breeze. Hell the Interface makes tuning a DP Wet kit much, much easier.
Robert