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Spraying An LS3 Based 427

Old May 13, 2008 | 01:17 PM
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Default Spraying An LS3 Based 427

Pro's vs con's.

Looking for real info as I am a "nitrous newbie". Was originally going to be a FI car but switched to the laughing gas.
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Old May 14, 2008 | 10:07 AM
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26 views and nothing?

Looking for opinions as to overall durability for a dozen or so times a year on the track.

BTW block will have L92 heads on it.
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Old May 14, 2008 | 11:32 AM
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You really need to give us the motor specs, such as brand name of rotating parts, head studs, gaskets, compression ratio, etc.......................before anyone can give your there opinion!
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Old May 14, 2008 | 12:33 PM
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Compstar rods and crank.
Diamond pistons.
ARP studs.
11:1

If someone has advice on the topics of gaskets, compression ratio's, or camshafts I would love to hear.

Have a wet kit that is jetted for a 100 shot and (I know I say this now and it will probably change LOL) but that is all I intend on spraying.
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Old May 14, 2008 | 01:57 PM
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If you're running the 427 based off the 4.1" crankshaft, we'd recommend against power adder useage. The reason being that the pin is moved up higher into the piston to the point where the crown is getting too thin to comfortably handle the extra pressure. Has it been done? Yes. But the longevity/durability of that setup is definitely decreased!
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Old May 15, 2008 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt@Texas-Speed
If you're running the 427 based off the 4.1" crankshaft, we'd recommend against power adder useage. The reason being that the pin is moved up higher into the piston to the point where the crown is getting too thin to comfortably handle the extra pressure. Has it been done? Yes. But the longevity/durability of that setup is definitely decreased!
What would you suggest? I have the block (came from you guys) but haven't built it yet so I can change plans.

Is there a way for me to get to 427 without using the 4.1 crankshaft?
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Old May 15, 2008 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 8ByGoat
What would you suggest? I have the block (came from you guys) but haven't built it yet so I can change plans.

Is there a way for me to get to 427 without using the 4.1 crankshaft?
dry or wet sleeving it.... better off selling the block and buying the lsx block.
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Old May 15, 2008 | 11:08 AM
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You could either go with the 418 (4" stroke instead of 4.1") and be good to go...or go with an LS7 block and 4" crank to get the 427 if you are set on that. Have you already purchased your rotating assembly?
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Old May 15, 2008 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt@Texas-Speed
You could either go with the 418 (4" stroke instead of 4.1") and be good to go...or go with an LS7 block and 4" crank to get the 427 if you are set on that. Have you already purchased your rotating assembly?
Not yet.
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Old May 15, 2008 | 02:31 PM
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What heads are you running??
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Old May 15, 2008 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Stang's Bane
What heads are you running??
L92's
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Old May 15, 2008 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 8ByGoat
L92's
Just go with the 418. 9 c.i. is not going to make or break the world. Power difference will be imperceptable. JMHO
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Old May 15, 2008 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt@Texas-Speed
You could either go with the 418 (4" stroke instead of 4.1") and be good to go...or go with an LS7 block and 4" crank to get the 427 if you are set on that. Have you already purchased your rotating assembly?
Do the ls7 blocks have enough cylinder-wall thickness to withstand power-adders? Not arguing, just wondering cause i have heard that from some sources, but know one i would consider reputable.
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Old May 15, 2008 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Stang's Bane
Just go with the 418. 9 c.i. is not going to make or break the world. Power difference will be imperceptable. JMHO
I hear you..

427 just sounds so much more bad a.. LOL
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Old May 15, 2008 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by landonew
Do the ls7 blocks have enough cylinder-wall thickness to withstand power-adders? Not arguing, just wondering cause i have heard that from some sources, but know one i would consider reputable.
I would say yes

https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/920466-mti-procharged-nx-c6-z06.html
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Old May 16, 2008 | 12:32 AM
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Read, read read. That's the best i can give for a newbie. You really need to get a basic grasp of things and decide what your goals are and whether you may like wet or dry. A good read, that's long, is the Wet vs Dry thread, stick with it and read through and you'll then have some more questions and able to more pin point more directly what you need or want in tech. It would take many pages to go through it all. We all had to start somewhere. Good luck, and i would love to help once you get going a bit.
Robert
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Old May 16, 2008 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
Read, read read. That's the best i can give for a newbie. You really need to get a basic grasp of things and decide what your goals are and whether you may like wet or dry. A good read, that's long, is the Wet vs Dry thread, stick with it and read through and you'll then have some more questions and able to more pin point more directly what you need or want in tech. It would take many pages to go through it all. We all had to start somewhere. Good luck, and i would love to help once you get going a bit.
Robert
Thanks. I already have the kit-it is a wet NOS system-moving my current top end over to the new bottom end.

3 things I am unclear about

1. CR
2. Camshaft
3. 427 vs 418
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Old May 16, 2008 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by landonew
Do the ls7 blocks have enough cylinder-wall thickness to withstand power-adders? Not arguing, just wondering cause i have heard that from some sources, but know one i would consider reputable.
Originally Posted by Stang's Bane
That's the link I had in mind...we haven't pushed our factory LS7 short-block that far as of yet, but we have thrown that and then some at our built short-blocks (427 and 439LSX)!
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Old May 16, 2008 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 8ByGoat
Thanks. I already have the kit-it is a wet NOS system-moving my current top end over to the new bottom end.

3 things I am unclear about

1. CR
2. Camshaft
3. 427 vs 418
As far as comp ratio and/or cam shaft, just pick what suits your n/a goals/needs. meaning, the amount of nitrous we spray our street/strip cars with really don't require dedicated nitrous engines. Now with that said, nitrous loves compression so don't be afraid of having over 11.1:1 ratio, and the cam, just look for a little extra duration and lift on the exhaust side of the specs. Pat G will spec you a cam for 25 bucks and that can't be beat and he's good.

427 or 418, I would opt for the 427 as nothing can beat cubic inches. Are you looking at the stock l92 heads? there is some things concerning these heads and spraying.

Cons on spraying a 427, none as far as I can tell. If it's a dedicated build (IE:forged) there are a couple things you can ask for if you know what size shot you plan on spraying. If your planning on going big, then we need to adjust the ring gaps, and head studs come into play. Really, talking to your engine builder (as long as he understands n2o) is the best thing to do, especially after you get an idea of what you plan on doing, or rather your goals.

Robert
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Old May 16, 2008 | 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
As far as comp ratio and/or cam shaft, just pick what suits your n/a goals/needs. meaning, the amount of nitrous we spray our street/strip cars with really don't require dedicated nitrous engines. Now with that said, nitrous loves compression so don't be afraid of having over 11.1:1 ratio, and the cam, just look for a little extra duration and lift on the exhaust side of the specs. Pat G will spec you a cam for 25 bucks and that can't be beat and he's good.

427 or 418, I would opt for the 427 as nothing can beat cubic inches. Are you looking at the stock l92 heads? there is some things concerning these heads and spraying.

Cons on spraying a 427, none as far as I can tell. If it's a dedicated build (IE:forged) there are a couple things you can ask for if you know what size shot you plan on spraying. If your planning on going big, then we need to adjust the ring gaps, and head studs come into play. Really, talking to your engine builder (as long as he understands n2o) is the best thing to do, especially after you get an idea of what you plan on doing, or rather your goals.

Robert
What about the post that was from Matt where he talked about pin placement when taking an LS3 to 427?

I plan on using compstar rods and crank-arp bolts.

What are the concerns with the L92 heads? As it sits now they are NOT ported-they are milled .030-stock gm valves, gen IV springs and titanium goodies with Yella Terra rockers. When I change over I will change the valves to stainless one piece and replace the springs, retainers, etc.

I would imagine you never plan on going "big" with a street driven DD and I really think with just a 100 shot it would get me to my et goal.
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