Low power - 100 shot only adds 30whp
07-20-2008, 08:49 AM
#22
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well, if it's hard to blow through (sp?) then id say its partialy blocked, if you cant blow at all then fully blocked =]
there is prolly a more sophisticated way of doing it but im a caveman.
there is prolly a more sophisticated way of doing it but im a caveman.
07-20-2008, 02:50 PM
#24
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First attempt at nitrous and not very successful. I'm running dynotune dry system. Engine is 383ci 9.2:1, mild cam, exhaust, LS6 intake. Bottle pressure is 850-900psi. I spray it on the MAF, about 3 inches from it.
What could be the problem? I can barely feel it if sprayed after 4500. If sprayed at 2500 it gives noticeable increase but not what I would expect from 100 shot. (Fiel pressure maintained through the run?)
AFR stays OK at 11.5-12.3, and there's no knock retard. Although I didn't change ignition maps, so it has 26-28 degrees (way to much timing, you need to lose at least 3 degrees minimum before you start sdamaging the shortblock) in top rpm range
What am I doing wrong?
What could be the problem? I can barely feel it if sprayed after 4500. If sprayed at 2500 it gives noticeable increase but not what I would expect from 100 shot. (Fiel pressure maintained through the run?)
AFR stays OK at 11.5-12.3, and there's no knock retard. Although I didn't change ignition maps, so it has 26-28 degrees (way to much timing, you need to lose at least 3 degrees minimum before you start sdamaging the shortblock) in top rpm range
What am I doing wrong?
07-24-2008, 06:45 PM
#26
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From my experience, spraying nitrous at or before the MAF will cause a variety of problems due to the fact that you're no longer metering the natural flow of air into the engine. This will generally cause most systems to adjust mixture and sometimes timing.
This is why plate systems are set at the throttle body, aside from the fact that you want liquid nitrous to have to travel as little as possible in before reaching the cylinders...
Try moving the nozzle closer to the TB and beyond the MAF.
This is why plate systems are set at the throttle body, aside from the fact that you want liquid nitrous to have to travel as little as possible in before reaching the cylinders...
Try moving the nozzle closer to the TB and beyond the MAF.
Nitrous + NO-Way-To-Adjust-For-additional-fuel = pop, pop, pop.....BAM.....KABOOM
07-24-2008, 06:58 PM
#27
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From my experience, spraying nitrous at or before the MAF will cause a variety of problems due to the fact that you're no longer metering the natural flow of air into the engine.
I mean WTF?? I would assume that by "A variety of problems" you mean one giant cluster f**ck of a disaster.
This will generally cause most systems to adjust mixture and sometimes timing.
07-24-2008, 07:07 PM
#28
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OP, I am assuming this is all SOTP numbers? Do you mean that it only FEELS like 30rwhp? I would assume that with the extra cubes an extra 100 hp won't be AS significant as a smaller less powerful motor. I mean, if you are making 500 rwhp on motor, then an extra 100 hp is only like 20% as opposed to a 300rwhp car who would be making 1/3 more HP. Just a thought.
Could it be that you have some bad nitrous? (never heard of it, but if it is contaminated with oxygen then it could be partially compressed air) just a thought.
Also, have you checked the line? could it be crimped somewhere possibly, or just plain blocked?
Lastly, nozzle placement can be very important. If it is too far forward and pointed away from the maf then maybe the entire shot is not being sucked into the motor and escaping out of the bottom of the lid. Maybe try and adjust the nozzle placement.
Could it be that you have some bad nitrous? (never heard of it, but if it is contaminated with oxygen then it could be partially compressed air) just a thought.
Also, have you checked the line? could it be crimped somewhere possibly, or just plain blocked?
Lastly, nozzle placement can be very important. If it is too far forward and pointed away from the maf then maybe the entire shot is not being sucked into the motor and escaping out of the bottom of the lid. Maybe try and adjust the nozzle placement.
07-24-2008, 07:57 PM
#29
If OP refers to me, then:
I've measured it with GTech, no more than +30whp. I can barely feel it in 2nd gear, and NA I'm making only 340whp.
Don't know about bad nitrous, and can't really check.
Haven't checked lines yet.
Nozzle is ~5" from MAF, pointed toward it. I'll make a picture.
I've measured it with GTech, no more than +30whp. I can barely feel it in 2nd gear, and NA I'm making only 340whp.
Don't know about bad nitrous, and can't really check.
Haven't checked lines yet.
Nozzle is ~5" from MAF, pointed toward it. I'll make a picture.
07-24-2008, 09:16 PM
#30
You stated your nozzle (single or dual?) is 3" from the maf. That is probably a little too close. I know Robert professes that the closer it is, the richer it gets however in my MANY experiments with my (now gone) C5 coupe, there was a point of being too close. I was running dual nozzles too (see Robert's website if you want to see it)
I backed mine up to 4.75" from the wires of the maf.
edit: In re-reading all this, your AFR looks pretty decent. It's got to be something with the flow. Make sure the solenoid isn't sticking or got crap in it.
I backed mine up to 4.75" from the wires of the maf.
edit: In re-reading all this, your AFR looks pretty decent. It's got to be something with the flow. Make sure the solenoid isn't sticking or got crap in it.
07-24-2008, 09:29 PM
#31
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something i dont understand , you say on motor your only making 340hp at the wheels ? dude my car is stock bottom end ls1 made 382hp with mild cam , headers , and cutout , maybe your car has tuning issues ...
07-24-2008, 10:24 PM
#32
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id first check the nozzle for any blockage. if you used teflon tape on all the fittings its possble some got into the line. Did you weigh the bottle before you made the pulls? just cause the bottle had good pressure doesnt mean you were getting nitrous.
07-25-2008, 12:38 AM
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BTW, OP refers to you (i.e. original poster). There isn't really a way to test for bad nitrous as far as i know. Sucks that the N2O system isn't working. Why not just swap jets. Its a cheap way to check without getting into too much tear down.
07-25-2008, 03:31 AM
#34
Thanks for all replies.
Yes motor is waiting for turbo. I already bought it low-comp from member here and had the car shipped to Latvia. but while it's not turboed, I want to spray it.
Yes it makes only 340whp, I have created topic about this. Apart from compression/valve train problems (will check compression), the only suspicious thing left is cam - some say it is too "small" for 383ci.
AFR under spray is good 12.5-11.5, it is in the first post.
Single nozzle, 0.048 (100HP) jet. Jet is easy to inspect, so don't see why replace it.
How do I check solenoid and lines? All I can think of is visual inspection (and trying to blow through them)
How can it be that bottle has pressure but no nitrous in it?
Yes motor is waiting for turbo. I already bought it low-comp from member here and had the car shipped to Latvia. but while it's not turboed, I want to spray it.
Yes it makes only 340whp, I have created topic about this. Apart from compression/valve train problems (will check compression), the only suspicious thing left is cam - some say it is too "small" for 383ci.
AFR under spray is good 12.5-11.5, it is in the first post.
Single nozzle, 0.048 (100HP) jet. Jet is easy to inspect, so don't see why replace it.
How do I check solenoid and lines? All I can think of is visual inspection (and trying to blow through them)
How can it be that bottle has pressure but no nitrous in it?
07-25-2008, 09:22 AM
#35
Then hook it back to the noid and take off the line to the nozzle. Do the same procedure. Should look the same.
2. The bottle could have a LOT of air in it.
07-25-2008, 01:01 PM
#36
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Why not just pull the entire thing and look at the spray
from the nozzle? It should be good and violent.
MAF has several sense elements and will be "bent" in
different directions depending on which ones the spray
hits most. That's how people seem to try and get a
voodoo enrichment.
Is there any mixture and KR data to tell you what you
are getting?
from the nozzle? It should be good and violent.
MAF has several sense elements and will be "bent" in
different directions depending on which ones the spray
hits most. That's how people seem to try and get a
voodoo enrichment.
Is there any mixture and KR data to tell you what you
are getting?
07-28-2008, 07:04 PM
#38
Found out that locking nut was missing from the coil, it was sliding on it's own on the solenoid rod... I'm pretty sure that happened recently, because at the last event I was using nitrous and although I could barely feel it, pressure in the bottle dropped considerably during that day.
I must say I can't understand how this solenoid works, I can't see rod or anything moving (except coil moves a little bit).
P.S. Didn't find any deformations in the supply lines...
I must say I can't understand how this solenoid works, I can't see rod or anything moving (except coil moves a little bit).
P.S. Didn't find any deformations in the supply lines...
07-28-2008, 08:08 PM
#39
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Found out that locking nut was missing from the coil, it was sliding on it's own on the solenoid rod... I'm pretty sure that happened recently, because at the last event I was using nitrous and although I could barely feel it, pressure in the bottle dropped considerably during that day.
I must say I can't understand how this solenoid works, I can't see rod or anything moving (except coil moves a little bit).
P.S. Didn't find any deformations in the supply lines...
I must say I can't understand how this solenoid works, I can't see rod or anything moving (except coil moves a little bit).
P.S. Didn't find any deformations in the supply lines...
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...D%20REPAIR.pdf
Dean
