00cls1camaross

iTrader: (10)

I am building my car which is a bolt-on stalled A4 with 100 shot of the laughing gas.

Considering moving it up on jetting size but i see people's dyno graphs and the instant hit of the nitrous is very violent. I was considering using a progressive controller to ramp up the nitrous slowly to a 150-200 shot and i was wondering if it would significantly lessen the violent hit on my engine and make the engine run longer.

I don't care about the wear and tear on the solenoids, i have no problem getting them rebuild yearly. I just would rather save my engine.

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

I have 200 jets in mine. On my FJO i have it hitting off the line at 50% and ramping up to 100% just past the 60'.

00cls1camaross

iTrader: (10)

how is it working? dyno graph? input?

508Stroker

You don't race dyno's man. Should ask him about suspension set ups and 60 foots. It would be a lot more helpful to you. You are on the right track for sure looking for help though. My advice with a 100 shot is just go for it. If you are going 150 (I used to spray my 99z 150 and not care about progressives, worked out fine) and worried progress it 75% and ramp it up as fast as traction allows.


My current build is going to launch off of a transbrake with a 125ish and ramp to a 200. Once i get the chassis sorted out I will try more nitrous.

00cls1camaross

iTrader: (10)

I'm talking about the longevity of the motor, if my setup is not optimum it is ok. I just want the shot to be easier on a motor, will a progressive controller make it a less violent hit of hp and tq. Will the progressive controller be worth it?

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

I was wondering the same thing, how fast can you ramp it in, to take care of the torque spike? I want to run a 200 shot, I'm not worried about traction, I would also like to know at what percent is low enough to not instantly tear stuff up and how fast can you ramp it to 100%?

508Stroker

you can ramp it in real fast and still dial down the tq spike on initial hit. On my Z I sprayed it for 2 years at least 1 bottle a month while daily driving it. Never had any motor problems. 10 bolts are another story, but the motor was always fine and had great compression when I sold it.

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

also remember really small percentages and really high percentages on your controller are not going to happen in real life. Your solenoid will not be able to open and close fast enough to realistically cut your nitrous to, say, 5% or say 95%. It's all relative.

MrDavid

iTrader: (11)

I am rebuilding my engine now to go forged, but for the past year, i have been running a cammed LS1 making 390 on motor, and 550 with nitrous. I have used the FJO controller and have been very pleased with it. The kicker is that my engine has 130K miles on it.

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

Ok so say 25% at 3k rpms? That would be what a 50 shot, then how fast can you bring it in? In my case it is a 10 bolt. I'm not so worried about 60', not going to be running a sticky tire here. I might even just lock 1st gear out.....

NXRICKY

iTrader: (1)

The progressive controller will lessen the stress on the engine and drive line parts. There are times when you dump so much juice in the engine you just can not harness it, and its a waste.
Progressive controllers thou are for helping you with traction primarily. When you get one set the unit up to start at 0% and ramp to a FULL 100%. The time start out at 4 seconds and start playing. If the hit is too weak, up the start %. IF you want the ramp to be more aggressive bring your time down.
There are many controllers out there,
from 149.00 range no frills start% final % and time NO COMPUTER NEEDED.
next step 200.00 range, PC needed to program, dual stage capable, transbrake interrputing.
475.00 Gauge style, no computers needed, multi inputs, multi readouts.
and then 600.00+ which are the bad boys lots of bells and whistles.

Hope this helps.

Rick

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Hey Rick, got a ? for ya. I will be getting the spray back on the car soon and i'm going to use a progressive controller this go round to try and keep the car off the bumper. I have a lot of buddies around here using the nos 2 stage mini with minimal to no problems. What I don't like about it is that the max percentage is 99%, so I would think that means it's still slightly pulsing the noids and possibly leaving power on the table and putting more stress on the noids, is that the case, or is it just a setting cuz they didn't wanna put a third digit display or something and it's not still pulsing them? Also, does the nos mini have a transbrake interrupt in it like the fjo? I wanted to get the fjo, but i've read a lot of threads on here about people having problems with them taking a crap and causing surging and so forth and so on, so it kind of steered me away from it, what's ur take on that?

00cls1camaross

iTrader: (10)

Yeah that was i was thinking, the initial torque spike. I wanted to lessen that. I think that all progressive controllers just open the close the noids, which will but added stress on them, judging from your setup refreshing the noids should be something you should be doing regularly anyways.

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

You talking to me?

00cls1camaross

iTrader: (10)

yeah i am

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Ok, not sure if my problem was too much instant torque or not or is just too much hook on too much power, I was leaving on 300 hp worth of nitrous all at once and the car is fairly light, and i'm not worried too much about the little bit of pulsing i'm gonna be doing, cuz I will have it ramped to 100% as quick as I can without runnin the car up on the bumper, shouldn't be more than a second max that they're pulsing, but that's why I was wondering if that nos controlling ended up making them pulse the entire time cuz if it does, then i'm gonna worry about the noids and will probably have them gone through every so often, if it's only for a second or two each run that I pulse 'em, it's not gonna be that much of a stress on 'em.