View Poll Results: What style kit would you go with?
Wet kit-single stage
7
10.14%
Wet kit-dual stage
15
21.74%
Direct port- single stage
47
68.12%
Voters: 69. You may not vote on this poll
402+big shot build=what kit?
10-19-2008, 05:17 PM
#21
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i want to go to a direct port on my 402 but i dont want people to see a direct port kit and say "holy ****, **** that, im not running that"
i might go with a single stage plate with a pregressive controller, but im not sure yet.
im not trying to hide my nitrous, but i dont want it to look like a racecar under the hood, i like the clean sleeper look
i might go with a single stage plate with a pregressive controller, but im not sure yet.
im not trying to hide my nitrous, but i dont want it to look like a racecar under the hood, i like the clean sleeper look
10-20-2008, 03:17 PM
#23
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ya, i know i could do that, but them people get intimidated by somebody that wont pop a hood.
i didnt mind popping a hood last year, they seen a stock L76 intake and though it was just an ls6 intake, i like letting people look under my hood and seeing just a typical LS1 motor, then they think they have it in the bag.
i want to pop the hood with just a little plate kit so nobody thinks anything of my car, im going for the sleeper look inside and out
i didnt mind popping a hood last year, they seen a stock L76 intake and though it was just an ls6 intake, i like letting people look under my hood and seeing just a typical LS1 motor, then they think they have it in the bag.
i want to pop the hood with just a little plate kit so nobody thinks anything of my car, im going for the sleeper look inside and out
10-20-2008, 06:42 PM
#24
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FOr a 275 to 300 hit I wouldn't use anything other then a DP. With a hit that big you do NOT want to rely on the intake to distribute the nitrous evenly. THe directport you can tune each cylinder individually, with a plate behind the TB or a couple nozzles, you're "hoping" the intake will do it for you, and I can guarintee that #7, #8 and #5 are gonna get hammered alot harder in that order then the front 5 cylinders due to the inherent design of the intake. No more then 150 thru one of those plates, if you don't believe me then have the plate/intake flowed by someone that can do that for you, and you will see. The distribution, will not be good.
If you are going to run a single plane, then you can put a hit that big thru a plate, but that's a stiff hit with a plate kit and if you're tuneup and engine parts aren't 100% it's gonna eat some stuff up eventually.
If you are going to run a single plane, then you can put a hit that big thru a plate, but that's a stiff hit with a plate kit and if you're tuneup and engine parts aren't 100% it's gonna eat some stuff up eventually.
Well put bro
10-21-2008, 08:04 PM
#26
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We have flowed a Vic Jr. with a conventional plate and those don't even distribute evenly above a 200 shot. I would suggest a super vic for a carb style plate.
10-21-2008, 08:16 PM
#27
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what about a GMPP L92 Carb intake with a Gemini Plate and the hardlines all modified to flow straight to the jets vs the stock "F" style fittings? Does that flow evenly vs some of the other setups? My 200 pills (100 x 2) made 285rwhp on the dyno. 420rwhp on motor with the nitrous tune and 707rwhp on the spray.
10-21-2008, 09:20 PM
#28
wizeass you need to make a rull 1/4 mile run, and shut the car off as you go across the line, and bring 8 plugs and the wrench with you.
When you pull all 8 mark where they came from and take a GOOD look at them, I guarintee you are gonna see some cylinders running differently then others.
When you pull all 8 mark where they came from and take a GOOD look at them, I guarintee you are gonna see some cylinders running differently then others.
10-21-2008, 09:39 PM
#29
10-21-2008, 10:06 PM
#30
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DRY kit......I am spraying 500 right now and I have less then 500 dollars in my kit. Better know what you are doing though. Plate is for beginners (not much adjusting to be done) Foggers are more work. Watching you plugs and making pill adjustments to make closer to each other. Dry kit..........Alot of tunning and watching plugs, but in the end is much better then the other 2 IMO.
10-22-2008, 03:13 PM
#31
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welded shut, wtf.
if i do go with a plate ill hit it with a smaller shot, watch the plugs, and just keep going up from there. i know im not the first one to run that big of a shot through a plate
10-22-2008, 04:12 PM
#33
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^^^
10-23-2008, 02:23 PM
#37
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DRY kit......I am spraying 500 right now and I have less then 500 dollars in my kit. Better know what you are doing though. Plate is for beginners (not much adjusting to be done) Foggers are more work. Watching you plugs and making pill adjustments to make closer to each other. Dry kit..........Alot of tunning and watching plugs, but in the end is much better then the other 2 IMO.
Will the car run normally off the spray without the tune WOT? or will it be extremely rich? I have no clue apparently and was just curious how streetable that much dry nitrous would be.
Thanks in advance.
10-23-2008, 02:37 PM
#38
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I would think this would be the case. His a/f and timing would have to be adjusted to go rich and retard just before his shot hits on the window switch. I would think it would be safe to command the PCM to do this roughly 500~750rpm before the shot hits? Not real sure as I haven't read much on tuning the ECM for dry hits and what a "safe" margin is to command the appropriate adjustments in the tune.
12-22-2008, 11:25 AM
#39
You need to read EVERY plug, EVERY pass until you are 100% sure you have your tuneup strait, and then you need to be flowing your fuel system if you want consistant performance, and you need to be doing that before EVERY run as well, for utmost repeatability.
Flowing when you get to the track to verify the fuel delivery, and a good accurate guage so that if something goes wrong is probably enough so you can go the day without flowing it again, but doing it every run will get you the best results.
As for the guy that welded his hood shut, that's got to be one POS car that probably doesn't run for ****, unless the entire front clip comes off as one piece so you can get to the engine, I don't know anyone with anything that's fast that isn't under the hood constantly for one reason or another.
As for the dry setup that Guess who's running, that is not something I would suggest anyone start off with. That's alot to learn and is a really good way to hurt alot, and I mean ALOT of **** before you figure out what you're doing.
Dry nitrous in general, because you are relying on the tune to take care of the nitrous IMO is risky for the beginner, better off to start with a wet system to learn how it works, what a single fuel jet change does to the tune, etc.etc. before trying to get the computer to compensate.
Plus, I look at it like this, the fastest nitrous cars are promod cars, and they're running 3 to 6 kits, and every one of them is wet. That being said, if the fastest nitrous cars out there are running wet systems, why are we trying to reinvent the wheel?