Dennys Driveshaft?
#2
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I bought mine used from Brian...
But yes, buying new you'd have to get it directly from Denny's. Billingsley has a really nice one as well, might want to see how much their's costs, and compare the two.
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#4
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Originally Posted by Tranzor_Z28
I bought mine used from Brian...
But yes, buying new you'd have to get it directly from Denny's. Billingsley has a really nice one as well, might want to see how much their's costs, and compare the two.
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You have to take some measurements but it shows you how on the web site
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I've had both the Nitrous Ready and now the MMC driveshafts from Denny's. He's a nice guy to deal with and will spend time answering your questions. They have a template on their website that should make measuring straightforward depending on your trans/rear yoke combination, etc. Also, its possible that there might be some wait time on a Nitrous Ready shaft since they're custom-built (I think I waited about 4 weeks on mine).
Something to keep in mind too is that the Nitrous Ready shaft is steel, so it is a good choice for heavy drag racing. If you are looking at anything else that involves higher speeds (like RR or ORR) then you should consider aluminum or CF instead.
Something to keep in mind too is that the Nitrous Ready shaft is steel, so it is a good choice for heavy drag racing. If you are looking at anything else that involves higher speeds (like RR or ORR) then you should consider aluminum or CF instead.
Last edited by Fulton 1; 11-21-2005 at 08:12 AM.
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Originally Posted by Rokko
thought about having one made locally??
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Originally Posted by NWDragRacer
I agree. The guys at Drivelines NW can do any work that the big advertizers do and without the shipping costs involved. They can make carbon fiber or moly or aluminum no problem - that's what they do.
They've made 3 for me so far. Worth checking out at least and keeps the money local.
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Originally Posted by WAHUSKER
Good call Don & Rick. I like the guys at Drivelines NW......
![](https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/iansane/carnage/IMG_1959.jpg)
Happened last night. U-joints are still intact and it just sheared off the front end.
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Yup, I took it to their fife shop and evidentally they don't do them there and the main seattle shop has to look at it. The dude gave me the impression that because it was a year old it somehow wasn't their fault it broke. I know my tpi 305 puts ls1's to shame so power could've been an issue...
It's pretty clear that it sheared off where it was welded. Hopefully I can at least get them to fix it for cheap... Won't know till monday.
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I don't see how anyone could look at your drive shaft & say anything BUT the weld failed. Please post what the result is. It will make my decision where to buy mine....
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Originally Posted by WAHUSKER
I don't see how anyone could look at your drive shaft & say anything BUT the weld failed. Please post what the result is. It will make my decision where to buy mine....
![](https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/iansane/carnage/IMG_1960.jpg)
![](https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/iansane/carnage/IMG_1962.jpg)
I won't know until monday afternoon but I'll post up the results.
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FWIW, here are some pics of the Denny's shafts as comparison
First is the Nitrous Ready shaft with billet slip yoke compared to stock SS shaft:
![](http://home.earthlink.net/~filesj/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/2212674339.jpg)
Second is their MMC shaft compared to stock:
First is the Nitrous Ready shaft with billet slip yoke compared to stock SS shaft:
![](http://home.earthlink.net/~filesj/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/2212674339.jpg)
Second is their MMC shaft compared to stock:
![](http://home.earthlink.net/~filesj/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/2214078142.jpg)