badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

how do'es my primer job look? i slitely loosened the front bumper to get primer inbetween fender.

this is my first time so be critical if needed or surportive and provide tips.

It seams to look better from the back, from the front looks like the spary fluttered any tips?

any tips on preparing prime for laying some base (sorry just picking up some paint lingo).

finished primeing after lunch car has been sitting in direct sunlight for about 3 hours.I brushed my finger across it and got prime dust on my finger is this normal?

Sorry to be such a newbie gotta start somewhere,

Thanks

http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...ent=prime4.jpg

Cts-Voodoo

looks great. the primer isnt covering the whole car. Thank you for not making the most common beginner mistake

Everything youve mentioned is normal, why isnt there guidecoat over the fender yet? Gotta make sure than thing is straight..

BradsLS1

It doesn't look bad by the photo's. But its hard to see anything by pictures. Many cars look awesome by camera and crap up close. I don't exactly know what you are doing but as I can tell you are trying to make this area the same color as the car. If you are doing this yourself make sure you do your homework. I have been painting for years and still learn new stuff everyday. As far as sanding this I recommend wet sanding this with nothing less than 400 grit. You will find that everybody had different ideas as to what to use. I think 400 is just fine for base clear. Anything less and your prone to showing scratches. Like what was said earlier its a good idea to use black spray paint as a guide coat just to help make sure everything is straight. Especially if this is your first time doing this. Don't rush this take your time its very important. The biggest problem with body work is people rushing. Remember you don't want to do this all over again. Pay attention to the small areas. If you think they might show up believe me they will. When you are ready to paint you have to understand that you have a lot of metallic in your paint. Metallic is hard to spray because of how hard it is to match. If your gun is not set right it will not look right. High air pressure and the color looks lighter to low and it looks dark so be careful. Plus not to mention all the other factors like temp. Its really not that hard to be done but like I said pay attention. Go slow and good luck

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

I thought I had to let the primer dry before I sparyed a guide coat?

was planning on some el cheapo enamel spary paint for a guide.

? should I start block wet sanding w/ the 400 to smooth it down then apply a guide coat?

Yes I intend to match the silver color.

planning on documenting this job w/ more images, just got excited about getting started.

Thanks for helping me a newbie I'm just trying to learn.

BradsLS1

No you want to spray the guide coat before the sanding and yeah cheap paint won't hurt. Like I said before spray paint won't hurt it. That is the point of the guide coat. You don't have to cover the whole panel completely you just want sort of a dusting but maybe a little thicker. That way when you sand you can see what had been sanded fast and what has not been sanded. If you didn't do any body filler at all then this should be easy. Any black or what ever color you choose left is high spots. Make sure when you sand that it is back and forth don't do circles. You want to go the length of the car. This way it works with the car and when its painted your not seeing swirl marks when looked at it just flows better. Like I said though take your time don't rush. Base coat paint is not as forgiving as single stage you can cover a lot more with single stage. Base is more transparent. So like I said before anything that you see that you like mike show up probably will. If you have any more questions just ask. How comfortable are you will a spray gun? This is just a idea but you might want to paint something around your house first anything. Just to get an idea how things turn out. Primer is pretty forgiving and you can't really screw that up. Base isn't that hard either. Clear you have to really watch because before you know it it will run on you. I understand how expensive paint is out there but its just an idea. But like I said if you have more questions anything just ask.

BradsLS1

Oh I all most forgot before you sand you should cut your sandpaper into strips for you block and let it sit in water with some dish soap for at least an hour before you start. The soap helps with lubrication and cleaning at the same time it sitting for an hour helps loosen up the paper.

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

1.my fender panel and head light cover are new GM parts however I do understand I can't expect them to be prefect.
when prepareing the fender I was carefull about sanding though the gel coat
(burning) but I did in a few spots not deep as you can feel w/ the palm of you're hand hopping the primer will fill these small spots & scracthes.

2.back & forth sanding motion I'm assumming from front to back I've been sandinging a X pattern for preparation so now it's back & forth since primer?

3.I have never used a spary gun but am not amtimadated I'm good w/ a spary can painting small stuff and have viewed numerous vids. I'll probably be real nerous when I get to this point gotta learn by experince, I picked up a junkie fender plan to practice w/ some cheap paint.

4. sandpaper is allready cut and I have a nice block will the dish soap help keep the paper cleaner (less clogging)?

5.should the headlight cover & fender be removed and primed underneth there's no paint on either?

6.I will be taking my time but will also be driving this car during this process
I'm assumming just wash it w/ Dawn each time before sanding?

Thanks for the surport

Cts-Voodoo

sand in a cross hatch pattern, always. It prevents ridges from your fingers, eliminates the possibility of waves, etc. Water and little soap prevents clogging, and a little soap and water before you start sanding down with 320 and 400 and then finally 600. Guide coat will smooth out your body work.

BradsLS1

As far as removing items. There is a plus and minus to this. If your remove items it is more likely that when finished you won't have anything missed. But a minus is that you have to be very careful putting it back together not to get scratches on anything. You don't have to remove the fender to paint or primer the inside. It comes from the factory with a protective coating on it. I don't know if you noticed when taking the old one off but more than likely the inside was not painted. Not sure about your car though I have never worked on a Trans Am or painted mine for that matter. For future reference its a good idea to jam your panels before installing them. Jamming is painting the outside of the panel and hard to get areas. It helps because it is easier to mask off when you go to paint plus it helps the scratch problem you don't have to worry about getting it on and scratching the main part of it. You do this after you primer it and before you install them. For example a fender, the piece that bolts to the body under the hood if you don't jam it then you have to tape all kinds of stuff under the hood with it up when you go to paint. You still have time to do this if you choose. All the over spray on the rest of it can be sanded and painted over. I think you get idea its pretty much painting the outline of the panel. The sanding motion is just an opinion that I have. The thing is about body work is that everybody has an opinion on how to get the job done. It doesn't matter who is right as long as the out come is the same. I have seen people do the circle thing like I said and it came out good. Its just the way I was taught. and yes it was front to rear and rear to front. Yes the soap will also help with clogging but if you notice while wet sanding that you don't really have that problem regardless of the soap or not. Its not as bad as dry sanding. I just like it because like I said it helps with cleaning and lubrication. This might help you. Use a spray bottle or sponge above where you are sanding I like this because I don't have to constantly dip my block and paper in the bucket. Keep it wet.

BradsLS1

Oh and by the way. You are very smart to get a Genuine GM made panel. There is many manufactures out there that make junk panels. I know you said that it may not be right but if you get a GM made part its going to be real close. All that crap made in Japan or any other countries get then close but there is always a headache lining then up. From what I heard is these countries take junk GM templates and use them to stamp there own panels there is a reason that GM got rid of these templates. This is what I heard I don't know if its a fact or not but it wouldn't surprise me.

BradsLS1

CTS has also gave good advice but like I said everybody has there own idea of how its done. He likes using 600 to finish and cross sanding. This will not hurt if you choose to do this he is right. But I have never had any problems with just starting and finishing with 400 though it might take a little longer and I have to admit that at time to time I cross sand depending on the panel and if I used mud on it. Like I said everybody has there own way of doing things. Its not as cut and dry as replacing a motor.

Swiat34

iTrader: (9)

As you sand, get close to the panel and LOOK at where you've sanded to see if you made any progress. I like to get my face close to it so I can see exactly how much more I may have to sand. A fender is a fairly good beginner job for Trans Ams as it's relatively straight and smooth. I'm re-finishing my front bumper and believe me..all those curves make for a difficult sanding job espacially since I had to make repairs from the previous owners damage.

Keep in mind that there's a LOT of knowledge in this forum. Be willing to read and search before asking questions, but if that fails, ASK AWAY!!!

Swat

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

OK Guy's I got a little iortated w/ this project.

just started wet sanding very litghely w/ 400 no guide paint. (apparnetly the primer was thin just forward of the wheel will post up images later) looked like what you guy's call a flat spot.

the rest bumper and lower fender look well coated and have wet sanded to a smooth finish.
yes I maybe a complete idiot for using the green self eching primer (but I did'nt know that is why I'm asking for advice) had to cover the exposed metel headlight cover to prevent rust pits it was quick to sand so I don't see additional work on the head light as that much extra work.
( I have purchased some grey expensive self eching primer and plan to redo what I messed up on head light cover.)

Thanks Guy's for the surport

BradsLS1

What is the problem with the headlight cover that you need to get the grey self etching. When you get that smooth with no metal showing you can coat with the filling 2K primer. The flat spot I would have to see pictures. Make sure you don't sand in one spot to much. I have a feeling that is why you got it like that. I guess I didn't look at the first pictures that hard. I didn't realize that you primed the hood as well. I think because of your skill level that you are going to have to paint the whole hood as well you don't have to primer the whole hood though just sand the primer until if feathers out with no edges and you should be fine. You can wet sand the whole hood with the 400. I don't recommend that you blend that area with the rest of the hood. Its not a beginners task to accomplish.

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

images of real thin primer coat prime 6 and small spider crack circled in primer 7.

I litely sanded w/ wet 400 toward the front of the wheel the primer coat must have been real thin.
I used up all the flexiable primer on fender & bumper.

? can I use self eching primer ontop of the flexable primer(which is for metal)?

http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...ent=prime6.jpg

it's hard to see the small spider crack of primer I circled it in primer 7.

should I completely remove the green self eching primer then redo w/ grey or can I just add grey on top of green?

I'm ditching the photobucket (to much bull **** on congradulations crapola) on this project see project progress here
http://www.geocities.com/stevethebody3/
there is an acknoweldgement page I can enter you're name if you want let me know

Thanks

BradsLS1

You should be able to put the grey over the green but I would try to get the green as smooth as you can first

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

what about the thin primer in front of the wheel?

can I just add primer for metal ontop of the flexable primer?

the spider crackes are hard to see how could this happen I sanded all the way down to the bare bumper, will I have to completely resand this area?

Thanks

Cts-Voodoo

If there are cracks, sand it down and start again. Also, are you using rattle can primer or are you shooting PPG or Dupont through a gun?

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

good quaility rattle can primer, see at materials page.

will it be OK to use the metal type primer ontop of the flexable?

http://www.geocities.com/stevethebody3/

if I decide to lay the paint (Dupot) myself I only want to buy one gun.

Cts-Voodoo

Get a 2mm gun and lay some quality primer over what bodywork needs to be done. Rattle can primer is something I inherently dont trust, especially for something youre going to stare at as much as your car. Make sense?