Epoxy vs. Urethane Primers...
I am going to be painting my 65 Buick....need a good, sandable primer after I lay down filler and make repairs. I went on Eastwood.com and was looking at their primers and they sell an "Epoxy" primer/sealer, and then a regular Urethane primer that is "for general all around use". My question is, why would I use an epoxy over say a general sandable primer? Thanks
Link to EPOXY: http://www.eastwood.com/paints/prime...allon-1-1.html
Link to Urethane: http://www.eastwood.com/paints/prime...allon-4-1.html
Link to EPOXY: http://www.eastwood.com/paints/prime...allon-1-1.html
Link to Urethane: http://www.eastwood.com/paints/prime...allon-4-1.html
I'm not exactly sure about this but I believe an Epoxy primer would be a good first coat over a car with body filler on panels that shrink/contract and the Urethane primer could be a top coat primer that you would block sand before color coats. Just needs some confirmation... bump!
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 701
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From: chicago
let me see if i get your answer correct
the epoxy sealer is just that a epoxy based sealer all sealers are non sanable like ppgs dp line that is a corrosion resistant sealer, it is used on bare metal or bondo work before primer, but now again im going to use ppg here the ncp 271 primer is a urathene based primer filler that is water proof, corrosion resistant primer, and that line also has a epoxy sealer which is not corrosion resistant becasue the primer is urathene based and rust resistant
some product lines use a corrossion epoxy based sealer and the primer is high build uathene based primer, example again spies hecker uses a epoxy based sealer primer is high film build, nothing is corrossion resistant so you have to use a etch prime before sealer can be applied, again etch prime is a non sandable primer has one job that is to protect against rust
am i making sense here??? epoxy based sealers are non sandable, urathene based primers are high film build and sandable, some are rust resistant some are not
i never used eastwood paint line always used a product line like ppg, spies hecker, and so on i would stick with a product line that will last and doo the job correctly
if your buick is bare metal, i would use ppg`s dp sealer line, then use the ncp 271 primer some of the best stuff in the buisness right there
the epoxy sealer is just that a epoxy based sealer all sealers are non sanable like ppgs dp line that is a corrosion resistant sealer, it is used on bare metal or bondo work before primer, but now again im going to use ppg here the ncp 271 primer is a urathene based primer filler that is water proof, corrosion resistant primer, and that line also has a epoxy sealer which is not corrosion resistant becasue the primer is urathene based and rust resistant
some product lines use a corrossion epoxy based sealer and the primer is high build uathene based primer, example again spies hecker uses a epoxy based sealer primer is high film build, nothing is corrossion resistant so you have to use a etch prime before sealer can be applied, again etch prime is a non sandable primer has one job that is to protect against rust
am i making sense here??? epoxy based sealers are non sandable, urathene based primers are high film build and sandable, some are rust resistant some are not
i never used eastwood paint line always used a product line like ppg, spies hecker, and so on i would stick with a product line that will last and doo the job correctly
if your buick is bare metal, i would use ppg`s dp sealer line, then use the ncp 271 primer some of the best stuff in the buisness right there
let me see if i get your answer correct
the epoxy sealer is just that a epoxy based sealer all sealers are non sanable like ppgs dp line that is a corrosion resistant sealer, it is used on bare metal or bondo work before primer, but now again im going to use ppg here the ncp 271 primer is a urathene based primer filler that is water proof, corrosion resistant primer, and that line also has a epoxy sealer which is not corrosion resistant becasue the primer is urathene based and rust resistant
some product lines use a corrossion epoxy based sealer and the primer is high build uathene based primer, example again spies hecker uses a epoxy based sealer primer is high film build, nothing is corrossion resistant so you have to use a etch prime before sealer can be applied, again etch prime is a non sandable primer has one job that is to protect against rust
am i making sense here??? epoxy based sealers are non sandable, urathene based primers are high film build and sandable, some are rust resistant some are not
i never used eastwood paint line always used a product line like ppg, spies hecker, and so on i would stick with a product line that will last and doo the job correctly
if your buick is bare metal, i would use ppg`s dp sealer line, then use the ncp 271 primer some of the best stuff in the buisness right there
the epoxy sealer is just that a epoxy based sealer all sealers are non sanable like ppgs dp line that is a corrosion resistant sealer, it is used on bare metal or bondo work before primer, but now again im going to use ppg here the ncp 271 primer is a urathene based primer filler that is water proof, corrosion resistant primer, and that line also has a epoxy sealer which is not corrosion resistant becasue the primer is urathene based and rust resistant
some product lines use a corrossion epoxy based sealer and the primer is high build uathene based primer, example again spies hecker uses a epoxy based sealer primer is high film build, nothing is corrossion resistant so you have to use a etch prime before sealer can be applied, again etch prime is a non sandable primer has one job that is to protect against rust
am i making sense here??? epoxy based sealers are non sandable, urathene based primers are high film build and sandable, some are rust resistant some are not
i never used eastwood paint line always used a product line like ppg, spies hecker, and so on i would stick with a product line that will last and doo the job correctly
if your buick is bare metal, i would use ppg`s dp sealer line, then use the ncp 271 primer some of the best stuff in the buisness right there
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Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: delaware
Epoxy primers are good for bare metal and are good moisture barriers. You can do your body work on top of the epoxy primer and then shoot over it with a high build urethane primers. Block it out, reprime, block it again, reprime,
until perfect
You dont need to go to eastwood for your supplies, just try and find a local body shop supply store near you. Eastwood is expensive when is comes to certain things.
until perfect
You dont need to go to eastwood for your supplies, just try and find a local body shop supply store near you. Eastwood is expensive when is comes to certain things.
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 701
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From: chicago
i suggest doing bondoo work first looks like you have allot of body work ahead of you, then and only then if the car is going to sit for a long period of time you can apply a sealer ontop of it
but if you use ppg`s ncp sealers which is a non sandable sealer something has to be put over it right away, if you use ppgs dp sealers or any sealer for the matter it has to be scuffed down with a red scuff pad, re apply the sealer then apply your primer
or you can just use the ncp 271 and then there is no need for a sealer before primer
but if you use ppg`s ncp sealers which is a non sandable sealer something has to be put over it right away, if you use ppgs dp sealers or any sealer for the matter it has to be scuffed down with a red scuff pad, re apply the sealer then apply your primer
or you can just use the ncp 271 and then there is no need for a sealer before primer
The body is actually pretty dam straight...aside from a few defects here and there and old filler, I think I have a pretty decent canvas to learn on! I thank you very much for the insight. I also agree that I should not buy everything from eastwood. Eastwood is great for a newbie though because it does provide a lot of tech support and details on the products...which is good!
I am waiting on my new soda blaster to get in so I can quickly remove the paint from the body...at that point I will decide exactly what timeline I have. I will probably seal it and then start body work. Good thing is the vehicle is in a garage which is very dry. Rust should not be a problem- I will remove any flash rush if it shows up but should not be a problem like I said.
Should be fun...
I am waiting on my new soda blaster to get in so I can quickly remove the paint from the body...at that point I will decide exactly what timeline I have. I will probably seal it and then start body work. Good thing is the vehicle is in a garage which is very dry. Rust should not be a problem- I will remove any flash rush if it shows up but should not be a problem like I said.
Should be fun...
