it looks nice good job man. and wow camaro body is empty! i wonder why its noisy!

 

Lookks good, I'd like to see more pics of the front end repair if possible.

 

I wanna see how this hood turns out.

 

got some new parts, going to do a little work on it this weekend, but not much

Trans cooler
"new" used headlight brackets



black housing parking lights



and a set of black "eagle eyes"

 

Those lights look awesome where'd you pick those up from

 

Everything is now done with seam sealer, I had to go pick some up. The front is straight, but the core support is messed up a little on the drivers side right where it meets the fender, it is pushed back a hair but it did not move the framerail along the fender.

The frame horns got cut off anyway so i wasnt worried about them. Everything from the core support back was fine.

As far as pulling the metal, if you look at the beginning pics the 1/4 was rough pulled on a frame rack, and everything was checked out. The front of the 1/4, top, and rear vertical were all pretty straight, and I should have beaten that inner wheelhouse before it took the fender off. It took a long time because it was creased, and I was very picky with it and took my time. I really didnt know what the actual shape I was looking for was becuase i did not have the new 1/4 around, so I wound up doing the outer edge twice.

I have never done any type of bodywork short of some fiberglassing and paint, so this is solely a learning experience for me (the only reason i bought the car) and its definately a teacher! Thanks for the tips

 

the lights were a package deal on Egay, they were like $250 or something like that for all

 

where did you get the blacked out parking lens and side markers

 

refer to the post above!

 

Don't worry about the "panel bond" bdyman is mentioning. I'm a body tech myself and have seen these jobs that a lot of these shops are doing now. Basically their using a type of panel bonding glue, (we've even seen door skin glue used here as well) to install quarters on vehicles. Let me just say... that doesn't work, there is a reason why the factory uses spot welds on the factory quarters. There are some car manufacturers that actually use adhesive in conjunction with spot and brass welds to attach quarters as well as other body parts as well. I normally like to use this same method, the panel adhesive helps with corrosion and our spot welder holds the actual panel on. Obviously most people don't have a spot welder, your using a mig and doing a fine job at that. Just throwing a tip out there for next time. Your doing great so far though.

Also the 6 hours on the wheel house... hey sometimes that happens. I see you punched a few holes in the old quarter to make some pre pulls, again nice work. I'm a full on tech and sometimes things just take a while, especially if your trying to be as thorough as possible. Don't worry about it, your doing well! Good luck.

 

thanks! this thing was pretty bad, but im doing what i can. I could do it faster but like in the wheelhouse I tried a few different things to see what would work better. turned out nothing is quite as good as a hydraulic jack and a big hammer!

 

dude?? really??brass??? lol this isnt the 60`s anymore, do you not see the panle bond between joints?? on 1/4`s door skins?? hello?!?!?! doors skins are bonded on the edge pinned over sure it is corrosion resistant, and using a resistant spot welder with panle bond is a factory and the way i-car wants us to do them so we have to!!!

so i asked why he didnt use panle bond, it should be used, i bond 1/4`s on all day long!!! bond roofs on, door skins, with plug welds, 20-30% more welds remember our i-car training?? panle bond is as good or if not better then mig wleding, maintain the bond and corrision resistant

further more, a 1/4 is a laser welded seam on the sail panle, with a mig!! dude cmon your a tech there is no brass used any more, everything is mig, laser welded seams, resistant spot welded
and panle bonded!!!
are you braizing panles on?? lol cmon get into todays technology!!!

looks like ya need to go to i-car classes ..................just sayin

 

hey bdyman, I would like to kindly ask you to no longer post in my thread please. I dont know much of anything about bodywork, but just reading your posts makes me beleive I know more about it than you do, they are terrible. And BTW, if brass isnt used anymore then why are there 3 brass tacks on each 1/4 panel on every f-body I have looked at? Another thing, there was absolutely no bonding agent used on my factory 1/4 panel I removed, it was exactly the way I installed the new one. If it was good enough for GM in 2000, it was good enough for my novice repair

 

You come off as one of those "I went to car school, now I know everything and I'm gonna be a dick to everyone!" kinda guys. You know what I mean? The kind of guys whose work is often outperformed by a guy that learned by hands on experience in real life.

 

Very nice work bro! My 2000 Z has 59k on it. Gettin old.

 

Umm not trying to be rude here, but you must be spraying lacquer with no respirator, the FACTORY MANUFACTURERS still use brass. Judging by your outburst about the original posters 6 hour job on the wheel house, you seem like one of those techs that just slam **** together and of course "know it all"... because if you actually took the time to do **** right you'd notice there are brass welds on factory quarters. Not every car has them but many cars do.

To address your panel bond on the door skins... no ****... That's why companies such as 3m have a "door skin glue" and guess what else, EVEN on door skins there are welds... sometimes they even have brass welds under the belt molding area. I guess we are still in the 60's?

And that's a big no to the panel bond being better than welds. As i stated previously I use the panel bond on quarters in conjunction with a spot welder. Why do I do this? Because that 3M panel bond/door skin glue, I can pull apart with my bare hands. I have had to skin doors that have already been "skinned" previously and without spot welds I would EASILY be able to pull that apart. I mean just one hit with the chisel cracks that adhesive. In addition your stating that you use plug welds and your telling ME that I need to get with today's technology... lol don't be ridiculous. I have an actual spot welder, and let me tell you those things ain't cheap.

I don't need I-car classes btw. I learned and an still learning from some of the best bodymen in my area. I'm talking about 40+ years of experience. I suppose you've never noticed that some of the biggest monkeys come out of I-car, UTI, Wyotech. Your education has nothing to do with your skill level, it's how you apply your knowledge... whether it be by formal education or apprenticeship makes no difference. Don't put down the original poster, he's doing a great job... sure there are things that I would have personally done different but he's doing a great job thus far. If you want to continue what your doing at the shop your working at, that's fine but don't give bad advise on a public forum.

 

i am having your posts removed from my thread, so whatever man. I can obviously see the core support is bent, it was hit in the front and the rear, im not concerned about it!

 

Capitalization and punctuation help make posts less offensive and makes one look more intelligent. Just sayin!

Great job on the car! Let us know how those headlights line up! I have thought about them, but they are hit or miss on fitting correctly....

 

Again... a big no... I'm not an apprentice, i'm a tech. My status of still learning should ALWAYS apply, if you really are interested in performing a trade well, you NEVER stop learning. But again since you know everything this wouldn't apply to you.

A plug weld and a spot weld are not the same thing. They are far from being the same thing. They can be used in the same manner and application but are far from the same thing. Of course there are times where a resistance welder cannot be used and a plug weld must be used in place of the spot weld, thus the ability to interchange as stated previously.

I realize what PPG, Du Pont, 3M, Eagle, etc. want us to take those BS classes. And guess what the government wants us to take classes also. I just attended a paint class for the government less than a month ago... let me tell you a 6th grader could have passed that class.

Trust me that panel bond glue does not adequately hold on a body panel. There is a reason why quarters for example are spot welded on. Again as stated previously using 2 part panel bond glue to put a quarter on is okay as long as its used in conjunction with a spot welder. I know how to use a 2 part adhesive, the 3M guns and tips ******* mix the adhesive for you, how can you mess that up? You squeeze it out of the cartridge, let it set, and make sure you don't clamp the panel too hard (would cause the adhesive to squeeze out). You must be one anemic MF'r if you can't pull that stuff apart. I can hit that adhesive with a flathead screwdriver and split it. When I do door skins 70% of them split as soon as I grind the lips off the damaged skin. I don't even have to hit the adhesive with anything, the tension of the door skin splits the glue by itself. I'm pretty sure you don't want that stuff holding your car together. The Honda door skins come to mind, those are brass welded under the belt molding AND are single side spot welded around the perimeter of the skin. But i'm guessing you wouldn't know this because your not interested in attempting to replicate the factory welds.

I'm not gonna compare dick size with you on a public forum but I highly doubt you'd run circles around me. You still are ignorant to the fact that manufacturers still use brass on some parts of their cars. Next time you have the chance to work on a late 90's early 2000's camry, open up the trunk and lift up the rubber trunk seal. You will see a little lump just above the tail light where the quarter meets with the rain channel, guess what that is?

 

In addition panel bond isn't always used from the factory. I agree in that it seems as though more manufacturers are using it, but not all. On another note, the manufacturers that are using adhesive in their quarters are only using it in certain places, they are not using it on the entire quarter. So your argument of panel bond being used from the factory is pretty moot, as that's not always true.