97badass

iTrader: (8)

I've always done the base work for bodywork not final and paint...
I'm repainting my truck this weekend...

Sand whole truck with 320 grit fix and fill any dents. Sand with 320 again prime filler only. Block smooth. Wetsand 600 grit whole truck.

Spray sealer on entire truck. Paint basecoat thin flash basecoat medium flash basecoat medium thick

Flash again while mixing clear spray clear thin flash medium clear flash then medium to thick clear let dry. Denunciation with 1500 wet 3000 d.a. wet and buff with medium compound?

Does that sound right?

ARLS1

Yea that will work. Using sealer there's no need to wet sand. Just final sand about 400 dry and you're good to go. Clean everything really well before spraying. Play around with your fan, flow, and pressure on a box or something to get it down.

98camarols1

iTrader: (1)

make sure you use wax and degreaser remover and tack rag it before applying sealer.and u also can tack rag it very gently between base-coat(after it has flashed) to keep it clean.it will save u alot of sanding and buffing.and keep same distance nice fan pattern etc...
good luck.and post the results.

JUSTINSWS6

Yes clean it with wax and degreaser. Also do you have a booth? If not and your in a garage put plastic wrap on the ceiling and walls and spray ot down with water before painting. Also filter air in and filter air out. make sure once you do the base paint dont wet sand to hard!

97badass

iTrader: (8)

Work has started, bed is off and new one is in the air to start sanding, debadged and de mirrored the truck and assessing the damage. I'm going to start on the drivers fender because its the best looking panel. And going around the truck ending at the hood. Passenger front fender is fucked from blowing a tire and needs replaced.

98camarols1

iTrader: (1)

what paint system are you using?and is the color metallic?

97badass

iTrader: (8)

Patriot blue pearl. Sherwin Williams ultra

98camarols1

iTrader: (1)

good choice on Sherwin Williams ultra.what kind of gun will be using?.and make sure u have like a water separator in your airlines,a pressure regulator on the gun would be good idea.and if you're going to be using sata or iwata guns i usually spray around 20-25 psi for basecoat and 25-30psi on clear.but tht will depend on the gun tht you're gonna use.also use right reducer and stuff.also for sealer the application it says you have to scuff it but if you lay your basecoat before 30mins then you don't have to scuff the sealer.its called wet-on-wet application.or wht i do is i put on my sealer then 1 nice thin wet coat of basecoat and then sand out any nibs or imperfection with 1500.then tack rag it and apply your other coats(dont forget your flash time).idk abt other systems but i know for sure on Sherwin Williams you can do tht.good luck bro.just take your time,try keeping same gun technique especially on base-coat.and once again good luck!

97badass

iTrader: (8)

It's a autozone gun I got from work, I couldn't get a replacement air nozzle for my 3000 digital. And yeah I have a water/oil seperator valve on tank, valve on the sperator as well as a valve on the gun. But I'm almost thinking the truck isn't going to auction... Dealership is trying to work out a trade with me to where i come out with a better deal than selling it for $13,000

97badass

iTrader: (8)

Also the denunciation in my first post is supposed to be denib

97badass

iTrader: (8)

Also if you want details on the tru k its an 04.5 ram 3500 cummins 6 speed dually 4x4 with a new motor new turbo new clutch new tires new mirrors new exhaust new u joints and soon new paint. I hope to have it in paint tomorrow night

98camarols1

iTrader: (1)

ohh i see.well let us know how it goes

97badass

iTrader: (8)

I will post pics tomorrow as work progresses. It's gonna be another windy day tomorrow too so Sanding is gonna suck. Btw do you know if harbor freight has eraser wheels?

98camarols1

iTrader: (1)

i don't think so.but your local Sherwin-Williams Automotive store should have it.usually they can hunt one down for you.if not then online i guess.

97badass

iTrader: (8)

Not open on sunday... I have to get another uni spotter since my last one got stollen and on the passenger side door I noticed some cracked filler... I started grinding and finally found metal under 2 inches of filler that was done it what looks like 3 coats then primer putty. And holes from the old style puller that were not welded closed. Doors are designed for water to run down the inside, those holes and filler don't mix well... But overall so far its been smooth sailing.

98camarols1

iTrader: (1)

i hear you.i am repainting my car and i am going through same ****.i hate it when people do half *** work.

97badass

iTrader: (8)

That door has been a nightmare all day... It's still wavy... I got it pulled out to where the thickest is half an inch. The fender that should have been replaced is looking better... If i were going to keep the truck I would replace both it and the door, but I'm not. I still have a final coat of filler to do on the door in the low spots to even it up and fill the big scratches on the hood. I was going to take pics but I was rushed for time since it was going to rain.

98camarols1

iTrader: (1)

here is the filler we use at the shop.it called Quantum 1(probably get it from Sherwin Williams.it can go right over paint(sanded).u don't have to take it down to the metal unless its big dent.this easy to mix and spread and it sands nice.use 80 to shape it. then 180 to knock down the 80 scratches.then prime.you can spread it beyond the actual dent into te paint and then sand it and feather it out.post pic so i can get better idea..
http://www.evercoat.com/imgs/product...5ml-(S.I.).jpg

97badass

iTrader: (8)

I like evercoats filler... That's what I'm using. My biggest problem was the block. It wasn't long enough. The dent was 18" x 8" its mostly done

98camarols1

iTrader: (1)

ok.let me knw how rest of it goes