Paint & Body Work Custom Painting | Panel Repairs & Replacement

Wet Sanding the entire car!!! GRRR

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Old 03-28-2012, 10:01 PM
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Is the orange peel in the clear or the paint it self?
Old 03-29-2012, 10:06 AM
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That looks pretty bad, going to be hard to get it sanded flat and still have enough clear on it. I would recommend sanding the entire car with 500 or 600 grit and reclearing. If you happen to break through the clear to the red, you can just rebase that are and clear over it. I know it seems like a lot of work, but it will be a better result I promise.
Old 03-29-2012, 08:20 PM
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If your clearcoat is reasonably thick, you should be able to correct it. You're actually better off sanding it down in stages , especially in the drip areas. this slower method will allow better gasing off of the paint & result in a more stable surface.
All the best paintjobs get a little color sanding, so try to find a happy place for your mind & get it done. It will be worth it in the long run,also to say you did it yourself. You might want to try meguiars diamond cut for compound with foam pads. It starts out course & breaks down into a glazing compound, which gives you a little quicker effect for your time.
My front fenders, hood & fascia were a near midnight spray job under an open carport last march. colorsanding & buffing were also done inpoor lighted conditions after long work days. A few minor rub threws, but to be expected working in bad conditions.You can see a little rubthrough above the vent, but the fender is as shiny as the higher quality 13 year old paint next to it. Just trying to give you a little inspiration.

http://s1094.photobucket.com/profile/jlcustomz1/uploads
Old 03-29-2012, 08:32 PM
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when your cutting and buffing you dont want to use a foam pad to buff, you will clogg up the pad like crazy, your better off using a wool pad to buff then the black foam pad to polish
Old 03-29-2012, 08:34 PM
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A good tip is wet sand with lots of water and use lite pressure mostly where a edge is.
Old 04-02-2012, 08:18 PM
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Thanks for all the info. Sorry for my delays in response, I visited a wounder warrior retreat this weekend to spend some time with a buddy of mine. So I neglected the car this weekend.

The orange peel is all in the clear. It's pretty thick. I went 2 coats extra after I started seeing it orange peeling because I knew I was going to be sanding it. I'm making my way around the car slowly and it's coming out pretty good. I'm happy so far. I'm using lots of water. I took one of my son's water bottles with the little snap in and out nozzle. I tried using a spray bottle but my hand was killing me after a few days. So I fill the bottle with water, open the nozzle about half way and just let it pour over the paint as I sand it. I'm using 1000 grit first and coming behind myself with 1500 grit to clean up any nagging spots without cutting away too much clear too quickly.

The only area I'm fighting is the valleys on the hood right above the headlights. They are hard to buff. I'm afraid to turn the buffer too much sideways and burn the paint from the heat built up. Without turning it a little though, the surface of the pad just doesn't get into the valley.

Slowly but surely we're getting there though. I'm moving this week so the car is just going to sleep for a while. Once I get settled, I'll go back at it.
Old 04-02-2012, 11:26 PM
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You might have to buff that hood part by hand.
Old 04-03-2012, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by IH8EVRY1
Thanks for all the info. Sorry for my delays in response, I visited a wounder warrior retreat this weekend to spend some time with a buddy of mine. So I neglected the car this weekend.

The orange peel is all in the clear. It's pretty thick. I went 2 coats extra after I started seeing it orange peeling because I knew I was going to be sanding it. I'm making my way around the car slowly and it's coming out pretty good. I'm happy so far. I'm using lots of water. I took one of my son's water bottles with the little snap in and out nozzle. I tried using a spray bottle but my hand was killing me after a few days. So I fill the bottle with water, open the nozzle about half way and just let it pour over the paint as I sand it. I'm using 1000 grit first and coming behind myself with 1500 grit to clean up any nagging spots without cutting away too much clear too quickly.

The only area I'm fighting is the valleys on the hood right above the headlights. They are hard to buff. I'm afraid to turn the buffer too much sideways and burn the paint from the heat built up. Without turning it a little though, the surface of the pad just doesn't get into the valley.

Slowly but surely we're getting there though. I'm moving this week so the car is just going to sleep for a while. Once I get settled, I'll go back at it.
Try using a clean sponge for water. Saturate the sponge in a clean bucket of water then put it above where you are working. Let it drip down on your work or give it a little squeeze once in a while. It's also nice to wipe down your work,
Old 04-03-2012, 11:49 PM
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D.I.Y. Automotive School RULES..!!!!

ANYONE TRY'N TO DO THIS AS A 1st TIMER.. JUST LIKE ME... SHOULD..

Follow these video steps 1-5 and listen to Pete..!!

I did this and WoW..!! It Really turned out AMAZING..!!

I will post pics after the final steps of polishing and washing all of the wax off.

I took it all the way up to 3000grit
Didnt have a D/A sander for 2000 and 4000grit


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hzQyaRof4k
Old 09-02-2014, 03:10 PM
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I now own the car and have wet sanded and buffed it out.





Old 09-09-2014, 08:46 PM
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For a DIY it came out good! That's definitely something to be proud of.



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