what paint will hold up for engine compartment details?
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i have my car completely torn down and am getting ready to start prepping and painting some things in the engine compartment. i want to paint things like the alternator, water pump housing, timing chain cover, steering shaft, master cylinder, ect. pretty much everything i can. i want to use a semi gloss black. most items will be sandblasted. i was looking at krylon self etching primer (greenish in color) and finishing with krylon "professional" series semi gloss black (in the silver can) will this hold up descent over time? or should i consider something else? thanks.
Nick
Nick
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I use dupli color paint and primer on almost everything. I painted some wheels with Dupli Color wheel paint like a year ago and they haven't peeled or cracked. I'd use high build where ever you can so you sad it if you get a run.
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I'm actually trying the rust oleum self etching primer & what they're labeling automotive gloss black right now for temporary body paint. The primer stuck really good to galvanized metal & the gloss black will colorsand & buff pretty nice.Previous experience with rust oleum is similar to old school enamels--they just won't stay as clean & shiny as urethane, need more care to stay pretty, although not really bad . Also heard of rust oleum black being used as emergency basecoat to complete a panel & still lookin good years later.
Have heard more talk recently about the dupli-color ceramic engine paint being tougher. Have some, but haven't gave it the test of time yet. Some have even used it on wheels with no reported chipping.
Tried VHT rollbar paint recently, am not impressed.
I was recently told a good adhesion test for cured paint is to scratch an x in it & try to lift with duct tape.
Have heard more talk recently about the dupli-color ceramic engine paint being tougher. Have some, but haven't gave it the test of time yet. Some have even used it on wheels with no reported chipping.
Tried VHT rollbar paint recently, am not impressed.
I was recently told a good adhesion test for cured paint is to scratch an x in it & try to lift with duct tape.
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The paint talked about works ok for that stuff.
If it were me doing it - (which I'm just starting the process of painting/detailing my engine bay); I'd use Imron paint (professional stuff, need a HVLP gun, solvents, etc); or Powdercoat stuff.
Either of these 2 will hold up to just about anything you can throw at them (except brake fluid of course, but I think most powdercoats hold up to that now a days too).
My brother's frame/suspension on his '78 chevy was painted with Imron back about 20 years ago, and it still looks like it just rolled out of the shop the day it was painted. (And this truck gets used, abused, and put away wet).
If it were me doing it - (which I'm just starting the process of painting/detailing my engine bay); I'd use Imron paint (professional stuff, need a HVLP gun, solvents, etc); or Powdercoat stuff.
Either of these 2 will hold up to just about anything you can throw at them (except brake fluid of course, but I think most powdercoats hold up to that now a days too).
My brother's frame/suspension on his '78 chevy was painted with Imron back about 20 years ago, and it still looks like it just rolled out of the shop the day it was painted. (And this truck gets used, abused, and put away wet).