Plasti-Dip!!
01-25-2013, 01:49 PM
#1
Plasti-Dip!! So im debating plasty-ing parts of my car, like the TA logo on the sides, the Underpart of the spoiler, and on the rear bumper from exhaust up to the license plate. what are your thoughts on it?? Tips and Tricks?
Example:
CREDIT: Cobra2WS6
Rear Bumper:
CREDIT: staff23
TA Logo:
CREDIT: tylermurphy1
Spoiler/Bumper:
I saw the sticky and FAQ about plasti, but i want to hear from the people who use it. I'd also like to hear ideas and trips and tricks on this.
Example:
CREDIT: Cobra2WS6
Rear Bumper:
CREDIT: staff23
TA Logo:
CREDIT: tylermurphy1
Spoiler/Bumper:
I saw the sticky and FAQ about plasti, but i want to hear from the people who use it. I'd also like to hear ideas and trips and tricks on this.
Last edited by Mista Blazer; 01-25-2013 at 02:04 PM.
01-27-2013, 01:44 PM
#2
Mask off the are, leaving AT LEAST 1 inch from the tape to the painted part. This will give you a start point when you pull, and peal up on the PlastiDip. The Trans Am logo on the door will "self cut" the plastdip because it is raised off the door giving you a "cutting area". To get the areas that are hard to get to, such as between the letters, and inside the letter "A", use a tooth pick, and pick at it for a minute. It will come right up.
Results:
CETA Mod. This area is tricky!! Here you will mask off the area you dont want covered. No 1" overspray area. the trick part, when you pull the tape, the plastidip is bonded to it. It will want to pull off with the tape. Take a razer blade, exacto knife, ect, and LIGHTLY trace out the tape/ plastidip seam. If somt of the plastidip pulls off with the tape, DO NOT GET MAD. Tape off the small area, spray a "heavyish" coat to the bare spot, and pull the tape off the second you are done so it will not bond to the plastidip. this stuff is "self leveling", and will blend right in. But dont over do it and get a run. The pontiac leters did not come out. Tried it twice.
Post your results. And ask me question if you have them.
Results:
CETA Mod. This area is tricky!! Here you will mask off the area you dont want covered. No 1" overspray area. the trick part, when you pull the tape, the plastidip is bonded to it. It will want to pull off with the tape. Take a razer blade, exacto knife, ect, and LIGHTLY trace out the tape/ plastidip seam. If somt of the plastidip pulls off with the tape, DO NOT GET MAD. Tape off the small area, spray a "heavyish" coat to the bare spot, and pull the tape off the second you are done so it will not bond to the plastidip. this stuff is "self leveling", and will blend right in. But dont over do it and get a run. The pontiac leters did not come out. Tried it twice.
Post your results. And ask me question if you have them.
01-28-2013, 01:09 PM
#4
Thanks!! I have also Plasti Dipped the cowling. That thing was a nasty grayish color (just like all the cowlings I have ever seen on most all cars/ trucks). I forgot to mention OVERSPRAY. You may get some overspray on body panels. No big deal. I used Goo Gone (recommended by a few people) and this stuff wipes it off like it was dust!!. Even a week or two later I would see a spec here or there. I would squirt some on a rag, and wipe it off (light buffing motion).
I did see some guys (online) doing racing stripes. thought about this, because sometimes I like them, and some times I dont. Works great to test a project idea before you apply paint or a decal. The trick to it is to remove the tape with in seconds when doing flat things like stripes so the Plasti Dip does not bond to the tape and peal off your design when removing the tape. we will see when I get my new hood. You can go to their web site and order custom colors. I thought about Sunset Orange stripes. Or dark Red (maroonish), Or bright red. I will have to spray them on and see what I like. If I like it, I might paint it on.
I did see some guys (online) doing racing stripes. thought about this, because sometimes I like them, and some times I dont. Works great to test a project idea before you apply paint or a decal. The trick to it is to remove the tape with in seconds when doing flat things like stripes so the Plasti Dip does not bond to the tape and peal off your design when removing the tape. we will see when I get my new hood. You can go to their web site and order custom colors. I thought about Sunset Orange stripes. Or dark Red (maroonish), Or bright red. I will have to spray them on and see what I like. If I like it, I might paint it on.
01-28-2013, 02:51 PM
#6
For prep work, I washed the car. If you have wax on the part you are Dipping, use some Dawn dishliquid on the part. I then use rubbing alcohol on a rag and wipe it real good. That stuff works great to remove grease, oil, wax, fluids, ect. I am an aircraft mechanic. Thats what we use to remove EVERYTHING (except corrosion). We have 55 gallon drums of this stuff, pump it into spray bottles and go to town. I use it on my car as well. I dont go to the store and buy all the diffrent degreasers, thats a waste. I think the best you will be able to get at the local stores is most likely 99% isopropyl. Just get the store brand, usely cheaper. Pick up a spray bottle, or find one at the house. NO SANDING REQUIRED!! The stuff has been on my car for about 6 months, and looks as good as the day I applied it.
01-28-2013, 03:29 PM
#7
For prep work, I washed the car. If you have wax on the part you are Dipping, use some Dawn dishliquid on the part. I then use rubbing alcohol on a rag and wipe it real good. That stuff works great to remove grease, oil, wax, fluids, ect. I am an aircraft mechanic. Thats what we use to remove EVERYTHING (except corrosion). We have 55 gallon drums of this stuff, pump it into spray bottles and go to town. I use it on my car as well. I dont go to the store and buy all the diffrent degreasers, thats a waste. I think the best you will be able to get at the local stores is most likely 99% isopropyl. Just get the store brand, usely cheaper. Pick up a spray bottle, or find one at the house. NO SANDING REQUIRED!! The stuff has been on my car for about 6 months, and looks as good as the day I applied it.
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01-28-2013, 05:12 PM
#8
As far as paint, its your car do what looks right to you.
BUT, my choice was flat on my car. The reason I chose flat was I wanted to replicate the REAL PLASTIC LOOK. If you look at cars that are done from the factory with the lower valance "black or grayish looking", it is unpainted plastic. And that goes for all kinds of makes and models. I see people paint their parts, door badges and CETA mod (lower rear valance) gloss black, and TO ME it looks "cheap". I am not knocking anyones car, JUST MY OPIONION. But I guess they like it.
My advice, buy a can of each, they are like 6-7 bucks per can. try one badge gloss, one flat. One can did my car with 4 coats, and still had about 1/4 can left. The whole project cost me about 15 bucks. 7 for the plasti dip, 4 for more alcohol, 1 for a news paper, 3 for masking tape.
01-29-2013, 12:49 PM
#15
Glad I looked in this thread. I tired to do the "Trans Am" badges on the sides of my WS6, but when I tried to peel off the access, it ended up looking like ****. I will try doing it the way you showed by masking off a 1 inch area and peeling the extra off. Yours turned out great by the way.
01-29-2013, 03:20 PM
#17
Attachment 389617
I did this to a friends car, it was very easy and the durability has been great.
The hardest part was trying to mask off the outline with thick blue painters tape but still came out great.
I did this to a friends car, it was very easy and the durability has been great.
The hardest part was trying to mask off the outline with thick blue painters tape but still came out great.
01-29-2013, 05:39 PM
#19
TECH Apprentice
i already painted my rear valance mat black, already got onyx version all decals
but now i sooo want to do under the spoiler. i think it would look awesome on my red ws6
but now i sooo want to do under the spoiler. i think it would look awesome on my red ws6