White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

Good stuff. My only concern is that it clearly states that this magnet paint will fade from a gloss black to a charcoal gray from UV rays. I understand the bottom of the car should never see sunlight, but its something to consider. I looked on POR15's website, and there was no mention of their product being UV resistant or not. I want to look into this further as I may end up painting my spindles, a-arms, etc that will encounter some percentage of UV rays. The last thing I want is to spend a ton of time making it nice, only to find it turn gray over time.

I'm not against using this magnet paint just yet, I'm just researching a little further. Keep up the good work.

You should change your thread title now! Haha

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

Yes, from my research, this is a common of rust encapsulating coatings such as POR15 and Chassis Saver. Both are UV sensitive and suggest painting on top should they be parts that are subject to UV exposure. Both can be painted rather easily.

For suspension parts like you mentioned, I would personally look into powder coating. Have them media blasted and sent out for coating. Shouldn't cost much, and the end product will look amazing. I am also in the process of gathering miscellaneous parts that I will be sending to CPC Coatings for full powdercoating, and may even have a few plastic items hydro dipped for that custom look. Well worth the money imo.

How do I change the thread title?

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

Go to the first post > edit > go advanced......it should allow you to do it in there.

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

Thanks. Got it changed.

Will be finishing up the first coat on the entire undercarriage on Thursday. Starting to come together! Stay posted for pics.

SchaefZ28

iTrader: (2)

Cool thread. Keep up the good work. It feels great once you know the underside of your car is clean and rust free! I spent most of last summer doing this on my camaro. Do it once, do it right

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

You're not kidding.

It has been an extremely labor intensive project, much more severe than I have initially thought. I had to purchase numerous tools to get this work going, but overall I'm extremely happy I've taken this work on.

I look at it like I have put this car into a much better condition than when I initially purchased it. This car should last a long time!

nascarnate326

iTrader: (1)

If your going to keep the car its really the best method for cars that had/have lots of rust.

I got lucky in that mine has very minimal rust to none. I went with some cheaper undercoating spray on stuff, always wanted a more professional finish.

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

Ok, so I was able to get some additional work done on the car. We finished sanding down the trans tunnel, cleaned, and prepped the area for its first coat of chassis saver. First coat was applied and we moved onto applying the second coat of chassis saver over the floor pans. We roughed up the area with 400 grit sandpaper per the chassis saver directions and moved onto applying the second coat.

Still have a few spots that may need to be touched up. I'll let the coating dry for another 24 hours and take a peak at it.

Look ma! No differential!

This stock 10 bolt will be stripped down for sandblasting and paint, calipers will be removed and sent out for powdercoating. Car still has a long ways to go.


I am currently debating saving some cash and making my own brake and fuel lines. I'd love to have these professionally bent and shipped back to me, but funding on this project is starting to get tight. Any suggestions?

I should also note, I'm planning on applying a spray on rubber coating to the inside of the rear quarter panels. I do have plenty of factory coating left in that area, but as a precaution will be adding an additional layer of protection.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...m+undercoating

Blak GT

Nice progress! Right now you're inspiring me to do this to my car... I've been wanting to forever. Keep it up

SchaefZ28

iTrader: (2)

Not to thread jack or anything, but you should check out my build thread here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...y-my-94-z.html

Since I've already done what you're in the process of doing Also, I would really recommend 3M Body Schutz that you spray with a gun over the spray can undercoating. I tried a can of it since it's cheaper, but the quality of the body schutz is 100x better. I've got plenty of pics of it. I even sand blasted my rear end and painted it too, came out great...

Anyways, keep it up, it's definitely a ton of work!

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

Thanks! It's well worth it in the end. I'm finally starting to see some progress and can see the light at the end of the tunnel. Just make sure you have some cash stashed aside for items you find broken/damaged!
Your build thread is incredible! We might need to pull the carpet out of mine anyways, so if we do, the entire interior is coming out with it! I'll have to grab some of that seam sealer as well.

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

UPDATE:

Due to my insane work schedule lately, I have not had another opportunity to work on the car. I will be resuming work on Wednesday. Still need to purchase some seam sealer, undercarriage uv-resistant paint, more blast media, brake lines, the list goes on.

At this point, I'm honestly debating just keeping the car down for the summer (or as long as necessary) to get this car back to pristine condition (or as close to it as funds allow).

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

Update:

The entire undercarriage from the transmission towards the back of the car is finally coated. Now I'm debating painting over the top, still undecided on that. Pictures to follow...

Jadedbird

iTrader: (27)

Satin black would look good i would think

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

That's what I've been thinking too. I forgot to grab seam sealer last time I was at the local paint supply store, so I'll be grabbing some of that as well. The car is so close to being done, I can taste it!

Jadedbird

iTrader: (27)

Id like to do this, but i dont have the effort to remove the rear, tranny, and fuel cell.

Did you use a sponge brush?

Jadedbird

iTrader: (27)

Would it be best to clean the under car with high pressure sprayer,
then degrease/clean with this product and a scrub brush
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-pre-painting-prep.html
Then apply this after clean
http://www.eastwood.com/por-15-prep-ready-gallon.html
And paint with this (color of choice)
http://www.eastwood.com/por-15-semi-...ck-gallon.html
Would 1 gallon suffice 2 coats? And is seam sealer necessary?


(I think eastwood is sponsor)
If not i apologize for posting illegal links

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

I considered doing something like this, but the extent of my rust was just too severe for me. Take some pictures on the undercarriage and post them up.

POR 15 is a great product from what I've heard, but in my mind, surface prep is everything. It's going to turn out only as good as your prep work. I would suggest removing everything and going at it with an open canvas to work with. Seam sealer is not necessarily needed, but it is cheap insurance in protecting the numerous seams that the undercarriage has. Many of my most problematic spots were at seams. I used it on my restoration, and I would highly recommend it to anyone else taking on this type of project. I'm just not a huge fan of painting right on top of rust, it just doesn't work for me. I needed to make sure that it was GONE before I went ahead to undercoating the entire undercarriage. That's just me though..

IMHO - Do it once, and don't look back

Also, I only used 1 quart on my undercarriage. Two thin coats on bare metal that was scuffed, and hit with an all purpose cleaner to promote optimal bonding.

Jadedbird

iTrader: (27)

Wow not bad. Figured a gallon was needed.
Also what all purpose cleaner did you use?
And you brushed it on correct?

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

Yes, in my case, only a quart was necessary. I have heard that when applied directly over rust, you will use more product. I'm not entirely sure how accurate that statement is, but I can say without a doubt that when applied to properly treated and scuffed surfaces, the product spreads thin and even. I ended up using foam paint brushes, probably used about 20 brushes total. I used Meguiars All Purpose Cleaner diluted 1:1 with distilled water.