Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

Just as the title states, I'm prepping the undercarriage of my WS6 for two coats of POR-15. My dillema is, I want to cover everything under the car, but don't care to remove the transmission, driveshaft, differential, and gas tank to prep and apply it! I'll be dropping the trans in a week or two with a friend to install the new Monster clutch I've ordered. Should I just say **** it and remove everything I can in order to gain access to every nook under the car? Also, I have a small compressor, a 12 gallon Craftsman (110max psi iirc)- will this be enough to power an angle grinder long enough to remove surface rust? Any tool suggestions or any suggestions for that matter are much appreciated!

I really want to do this once, and be done. I have another daily driver, and usually don't insure this car until May anyways, so time and transportation are not a problem.

six2eight

iTrader: (3)

if you have a lift or decent jack stands removing the fuel tank and driveshaft are not overly difficult or time consuming. but you could just spray up the sides to save time and effort. only you and anyone working on your car will know that you took a shortcut

Grifter

iTrader: (12)

If you're doing the clutch soon I don't see why you shouldn't just wait and cover as much area as possible. Do it right the first time, a little extra time and effort spent now will go a long way.

Gates72ss

It all depends on your expectations, i have gotten away with with just spraying whatever i could reach..Most of the time I'm under coating freshly restored cars so its a blank canvas..That compressor will good enough for short blast's with the grinder , it definitely wont keep up with the grinder..A wire wheel on a decent cordless drill will work pretty good too for surface type rust..

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

I'll be replacing the following items after the completion of the POR15

2 PT SFC's
Adjustable PHB
LCA Relocation Brackets
LCA's
Monster Stage 2
Tick Master
Walbro Fuel Pump? (most likely)
Koni F4's (Front & Rear) & BMR Springs

So I'm thinking about removing the transmission, driveshaft, differential, and gas tank. Basically removing everything except fuel and brake lines to try and coat as much as possible. Was hoping that the undercarriage could be cleaned up and applied POR15 without removing all of these, but I want it done the right way.

Do you guys know, do any of the vendors here sell brake lines for our fbodies? Mine have surface rust and I'd like to replace them while I'm under the car.

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

What type of wire wheel? I'm a complete noob when it comes to rust restoration.

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

For brake lines look at Classic Tube. You need to search under Chevy Camaro to find the brake lines for 98-02 fbodies. They come with or without traction control. I believe they are $220 for stainless, and $195 for mild. It includes every 'hard line' on the car, per a phone discussion with them. I haven't bought the set yet, but plan to.

As far as removing stuff.......do it once, do it right. Disconnect the brake lines, fuel lines, etc. Remove the driveshaft, trans, rear, fuel tank. It will be extremely open under there and give you ample room to prep/work. It might take a month or so from start to completion, but the end result will look awesome. Just take your time and have fun.

And remember this.....prep is 90% of the result.

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

Go to a home improvement store (Home Depot, Ace, etc) and look for one of these:



They come in all different grits and shapes. Grab a couple and have at it.

Jay-P

iTrader: (16)

I use something like this:



To grind away rust. I find it easier to apply pressure to the tool to get the stubborn rust away. Be sure to use safety glasses as some of the little wires tend to fly off. Gloves and long sleeves would be a good idea too.

I dont use my compressor and air angle grinder, my compressor dosnt have enough juice to run it continously. I use an electric set-up similar to this:



Have been for 15+ years now with great success.

69Project

POR-15= Paint Over Rust... Why do you want to use POR? Ffor undercoating or just a protective barrier to make underneath look good? There are other products out there that are probably better. If you are going to use POR-15 do not let it be exposed to directly sunlight or a lot of heat, it will deteriorate and flake. Flaking wil be your biggest problem it not applied right. I would apply a rust neutralizer like Phospho, wash it off and then coat. If you grind away to bare metal I would put some sort of primer on it before applying whatever undercoat you use.

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

You're probably right.

I've ordered 1 gallon of POR15, Marine Clean, and Prep & Ready. I checked into Classic Tube, looks like a kit for my car (with traction control) would run me $351. I searched for 2000 - Pontiac - Firebird, and that was the kit that showed up. I'm going to have to call them and make sure those are pre-bent & if they include fittings (if needed). Also, I'm curious to hear if those lines are rust resistant.

Will definitely take pictures of this process and bump this thread for all of those that are interested in the performing this job.

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

Same scenario for me. Have a little 12 gallon Craftsman that does the job for me most of the time, but definitely isn't up to this task. Electric is definitely the route I'll take on this one.

I have been considering a multi tool such as a dremel or rigid with the corresponding sanding discs. Problem with those is, the surface area is so small, it'll take me years to grind all of that rust down. I wonder if a rotary sander from Harbor Freight like the one you posted would be my best bet..

Thank you guys for the extremely helpful posts. I'm going to need all of the help I can get! I have a good friend with fantastic mechanical knowledge that'll be helping me strip the undercarriage down. Once I have it sanded, prepped, and undercoated, the reassembly will begin. Still need to grab a replacement fuel pump (figure I might as well replace with the tank down and the car does have 116K miles). Are there any other parts I should consider replacing while everything is stripped down?

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

I have been told that POR15 is hands down one of the best undercoating products on the market right now. I realize there are other products available, but I like the idea of a permanent solution - which to my knowledge, POR15 is (or as close to permanent as possible). The UV sensitivity doesn't bother me tremendously, as my undercarriage will never see any direct sunlight. And if I want to, I can paint over the POR15 with a high temp paint, should I choose to do so.

I have been emailing POR15 directly, and they seem to think that a sanded down surface would be the best route for me to take.

Jay-P

iTrader: (16)

I feel the angle grinder and wire wheel would be the best bet for you. The dremel style ones are, like you mentioned, just too small, and would take you alot longer then the wire wheel.

Ive done numerous jobs with the set-up i pictured, followed by por15. The coverage and durability have been awesome. I wouldnt worry about it being sanded instead of wire wheeled. Obviously scuff up the areas you dont need to wheel away rust, for better adhesion. But the spots that have been wheeled will be fine as is.

Follow directions and make sure the area is as clean as you can get it before applying.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

Just curious, what are your plans for getting up inside the subframe boxes? I know my old Camaro's subframe was rusting from both directions on those boxes, you could reach in there with your finger and feel all the scale/loose rust. I had no idea how you could fix something like that.

I want to undercoat my current Camaro at some point. It isn't rusty, and I don't drive it in the winter, but I still want to give it all the protection I can and those subframes are what concern me. So I'm going to mark and watch this thread.

Update with progress and pics as you go if you don't mind

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

Shops will spray a 'wax' type material into the rockers/etc and such to slow/prevent rust. I don't know what it is, but I've seen it done over the years.

ETA: I think it's Cosmoline. See this link below:

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...er-panels.html

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

That is an area that I'm going to address once I get under the car and everything has been removed. I still need to order my brake lines, White Lightning provided a fantastic contact for that in Classic Tube. They are telling me they will custom make pre bent brake lines for my car (2000 WS6 with Traction Control) for $200. These are stainless lines and leaves me one less tedious job to do. I'd rather focus my efforts on the undercarriage to be completely honest. Classic tube requested that I strip my lines, wrap them around a five gallon bucket, then ship them out so they could be duplicated. I might send in my fuel lines as well if my budget allows..

I may end up removing the rocker panels to gain a better look at that area if necessary.

Just got my shipping confirmation email from Founder Performance for some suspension items I've ordered. Just waiting on my clutch to arrive from Monster, but I'm thinking about starting to strip the car down starting this Wednesday. Pics will most definitely be taken of the process.

I still need to purchase the following products:

Latex Gloves
Classic Tube brake lines (possibly fuel lines as well)
Cheap Harbor Freight rotary sander
Cheap Harbor Freight wire wheels/sanding media
Chassis Coat/POR15 (I found a local dealer that I will purchase from)
Fuel pump (Figure I might as well replace with the tank down)

Once I get the car coated and reassembled, I will finally perform a FULL paint correction on it. I have been detailing professionally for the past year, and STILL haven't had time to address my own car! It's embarassing, and I definitely plan on taking pictures of that process as well.

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

Quick update:

My buddy came by yesterday and we started stripping the car down. The rust on the floorboards is actually worse than I anticipated. The good news is that the tunnel is practically rust free so most of my grinding that will take place will be relatively easy to get to. I ended up purchasing a Makita angle grinder, and attaching a 3" cup style wire wheel. Still have a ways to go with that.

Removed the exhaust system, driveshaft, and the transmission. Discovered that I have a rear main seal leak, so we'll be addressing that as well. Monster Stage 2 clutch just arrived yesterday, just awaiting install. Will be posting up pictures of this process shortly.

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

Good deal man. I can't wait to see before/after pics. I bet you will thank yourself for "doing it right".

Awaiting pics

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

Definitely!

I can tell you this, plenty of PB Blaster was sacrificed in order to break loose miscellaneous rusty bolts on the suspension and exhaust system. The rust has had a twelve year head start, so I'm determined to go all out here and sand away as much as possible. Pics will be up shortly.