Add another bent fender to the list...
06-11-2017, 04:48 PM
#1
Add another bent fender to the list... Shop jacked it along the weld seam where they aren't suppose to and it cracked the fender plastic where it bolts.
I was looking at a few different options:
1. Get a new OEM fender for $171, part #10419546 and take it to a local shop to get painted.
2. Buy an already painted black fender from icon_automotive on ebay for $275 shipped. They claim they use 3 coats of color, then 2 coats of clear, all PPG. 1800 positive feedback saying that the matches and fitment were excellent on various car models. It's not an OEM fender, but an aftermarket replacement. Probably have to drill your own 3 holes for where the inner fender liner mounts to it.
Going to see what the local shop wants to paint and install an OEM one, and go from there.
I was looking at a few different options:
1. Get a new OEM fender for $171, part #10419546 and take it to a local shop to get painted.
2. Buy an already painted black fender from icon_automotive on ebay for $275 shipped. They claim they use 3 coats of color, then 2 coats of clear, all PPG. 1800 positive feedback saying that the matches and fitment were excellent on various car models. It's not an OEM fender, but an aftermarket replacement. Probably have to drill your own 3 holes for where the inner fender liner mounts to it.
Going to see what the local shop wants to paint and install an OEM one, and go from there.
06-12-2017, 09:16 AM
#4
The aftermarket I had on my old 98 was a 95% fit. The corner above the headlight was slightly off but it fit OK otherwise.
One other option you may have is what had been done to my car. Forget the dumb tab, line the fender up where it should be, then use a pair of screws through the fender into the chassis where it curves up underneath the car (basically right in front of the tab).
One other option you may have is what had been done to my car. Forget the dumb tab, line the fender up where it should be, then use a pair of screws through the fender into the chassis where it curves up underneath the car (basically right in front of the tab).
06-12-2017, 12:14 PM
#6
The aftermarket I had on my old 98 was a 95% fit. The corner above the headlight was slightly off but it fit OK otherwise.
One other option you may have is what had been done to my car. Forget the dumb tab, line the fender up where it should be, then use a pair of screws through the fender into the chassis where it curves up underneath the car (basically right in front of the tab).
One other option you may have is what had been done to my car. Forget the dumb tab, line the fender up where it should be, then use a pair of screws through the fender into the chassis where it curves up underneath the car (basically right in front of the tab).
06-12-2017, 02:43 PM
#7
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This is what I did on my '02 Z28 when the driver's side tab was cracked free from the fender. I used two flat, small headed/low profile screws and painted them body color. I also bent the tab back into place so it didn't look broken at all, and left the plastic portion attached to it. It was impossible to tell that anything had been done unless you were under the car looking directly up at those screws.
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07-14-2017, 01:59 PM
#11
Why is GM lacking in foresight, unlike Ford or Dodge was when they designed their fenders? You don't see a bunch of bent mustang fenders from misplacement of jacks on those cars. Why is that? Ya, ya, ya, Ford and Dodge have their own problem in other areas. Still, that is not an excuse. Sometimes a little foresight goes along way. Somebody at GM messed up.
Whatever happened to stepping back after making a design and saying to yourself "now what are all the things wrong with this such that I can remedy them now so that consumers won't call me a dumb *** for not catching this this first time around" I guess they figure the consumer can fix the mistakes of their GM techs for them, which is exactly what had to be done to fix this issue.
Whatever happened to stepping back after making a design and saying to yourself "now what are all the things wrong with this such that I can remedy them now so that consumers won't call me a dumb *** for not catching this this first time around" I guess they figure the consumer can fix the mistakes of their GM techs for them, which is exactly what had to be done to fix this issue.
07-14-2017, 06:47 PM
#12
So it's GM's fault that people don't know how to jack up a car? Climb down off your soap box. These were cheap quality, mass-produced cars designed in the 90's, that let you go fast for much less and looked pretty darn good doing it. If you were expecting high quality, you've been suckered.
07-14-2017, 07:14 PM
#13
So it's GM's fault that people don't know how to jack up a car? Climb down off your soap box. These were cheap quality, mass-produced cars designed in the 90's, that let you go fast for much less and looked pretty darn good doing it. If you were expecting high quality, you've been suckered.
07-14-2017, 08:16 PM
#14
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Fixed in red.
That's better! 
Every manufacturer has their issues, and they all needed to pull their heads out of their *** when it came to detail. Ford lacked foresight by making the mustangs during that same time at a performance level that was still competing with L98 F-bodies which had been out of production since 1992.
07-14-2017, 08:29 PM
#15
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FWIW, the '98 and earlier F-bodies had a protective "foot" that mounted to the frame right behind that tab to bear any weight during improper jacking, it's made of plastic but strong enough to hold the weight if applied evenly. It's still possible to bend the tab accidentally on the earlier cars, but less likely due to this guard.
This is just one of several items that were deleted as production rolled on and GM became cheaper with the later cars (also gone in the later years was the secondary door bottom seal, the hood insulator, the A/C line brace on the passenger side shock tower, and the small plastic trim piece on the driver's side hood hinge, to name a few.)
This is just one of several items that were deleted as production rolled on and GM became cheaper with the later cars (also gone in the later years was the secondary door bottom seal, the hood insulator, the A/C line brace on the passenger side shock tower, and the small plastic trim piece on the driver's side hood hinge, to name a few.)
