Did I buy a smashed car.....could use a answer or solution
#22
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#23
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Funny how the guy thought it was to much power for me but now I'm just picturing him sending it into a wall.
I'm gonna look for shops around here before I over react and start diassembly. Tha k you for all your help and quick thorough responses
#24
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No thank you, I compared that side by side with the other and even tried to swap tops with my other thinking it was a top issue not a car issue.
Funny how the guy thought it was to much power for me but now I'm just picturing him sending it into a wall.
I'm gonna look for shops around here before I over react and start diassembly. Tha k you for all your help and quick thorough responses
Funny how the guy thought it was to much power for me but now I'm just picturing him sending it into a wall.
I'm gonna look for shops around here before I over react and start diassembly. Tha k you for all your help and quick thorough responses
#25
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From the original Images #5, #6, #7 all show damage that was repaired and it looks to be the quickest repair job as it looks to be straightened but not primed and painted. There is what appears to be some paint separation from the metal that would cause rust to unnoticed until those brackets are pretty much ate up. Ideally the brackets would be removed, any existing rust remediated, then primed and painted. If they beat it back into shape it would be a good idea to confirm there are no cracks in the brackets as well.
Pulling the nose off is a good idea as there might be other things hiding in there. It sucks when someone tells you the car wasn't wrecked and you later find evidence it was. Good news is you will confirm and can fix all easier with the nose off. If you need to clean up a welded bracket piece you will have more room to work with in getting it out and back in. The wonderful think with these cars is they all have a lot of things to tell us about their past owners.
Pulling the nose off is a good idea as there might be other things hiding in there. It sucks when someone tells you the car wasn't wrecked and you later find evidence it was. Good news is you will confirm and can fix all easier with the nose off. If you need to clean up a welded bracket piece you will have more room to work with in getting it out and back in. The wonderful think with these cars is they all have a lot of things to tell us about their past owners.
#26
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From the original Images #5, #6, #7 all show damage that was repaired and it looks to be the quickest repair job as it looks to be straightened but not primed and painted. There is what appears to be some paint separation from the metal that would cause rust to unnoticed until those brackets are pretty much ate up. Ideally the brackets would be removed, any existing rust remediated, then primed and painted. If they beat it back into shape it would be a good idea to confirm there are no cracks in the brackets as well.
Pulling the nose off is a good idea as there might be other things hiding in there. It sucks when someone tells you the car wasn't wrecked and you later find evidence it was. Good news is you will confirm and can fix all easier with the nose off. If you need to clean up a welded bracket piece you will have more room to work with in getting it out and back in. The wonderful think with these cars is they all have a lot of things to tell us about their past owners.
Pulling the nose off is a good idea as there might be other things hiding in there. It sucks when someone tells you the car wasn't wrecked and you later find evidence it was. Good news is you will confirm and can fix all easier with the nose off. If you need to clean up a welded bracket piece you will have more room to work with in getting it out and back in. The wonderful think with these cars is they all have a lot of things to tell us about their past owners.
I'm really thinking to keep a eye on my last one that just hit the auction. Take the motor and fresh built trans for a silverado, Tahoe, etc. And the interior (black) for the current plus the front end.
I'm going to get it to a shop once I find one that will do non insurance repairs and doesn't deem it "too old"
#27
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Does anyone know the name of the brackets or that area? I just keep throwing things into google hoping it'll stick. If it wasn't on a loan I wouldn't be as annoyed because then just drop the front assembly and swap it all to a roller.
I'm really thinking to keep a eye on my last one that just hit the auction. Take the motor and fresh built trans for a silverado, Tahoe, etc. And the interior (black) for the current plus the front end.
I'm going to get it to a shop once I find one that will do non insurance repairs and doesn't deem it "too old"
I'm really thinking to keep a eye on my last one that just hit the auction. Take the motor and fresh built trans for a silverado, Tahoe, etc. And the interior (black) for the current plus the front end.
I'm going to get it to a shop once I find one that will do non insurance repairs and doesn't deem it "too old"
#28
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I was curious about that. Would that be the easiest way? I've done a decent amount of car work but this is new to me.
#29
Launching!
#30
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Easiest way would be to find a donor, if you have the "wrong" nose on the car to begin with getting a Trans Am front vs current Firebird/Formula would just save time in my opinion. This would give you access to a full complement of brace/bracket pieces too. Might be more costly but if you factor in going over someone else's repair job, based on the images shares, it would come out a wash and most likely less frustration. Only down side I can see would be if the past damage shifted the frame around making aligning a donor nose more labor intensive.
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Treburkulosis (07-15-2024)
#31
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So crazy it's not as simple as just swapping my stuff into a donor and being good. Crazy that a stamp with some numbers is so critical. I get it I do but what's that whole riddle/question about rebuilding a boat board by board and then reusing the original boards to build a boat, which is the original? Maybe a bad example just frustrated.
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Treburkulosis (07-15-2024)
#33
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I have it saved in a tab in my phone. Once it goes to auction I am gonna keep a close eye on it. Could use it for a lot on this and drive line on something else. I just spent a pretty penny rebuilding the trans so I could even pull the drum and pump for a 4x4 amd throw the 5.7 in as well.
The following 2 users liked this post by Mbs1994:
Codys89RS (07-16-2024), Treburkulosis (07-16-2024)
#35
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Car still hasn't hit the auction but unsure what's going to happen as life is throwing curve ***** currently. I appreciate you all and will update if anything happens.
The following 2 users liked this post by Mbs1994:
NC01TA (07-20-2024), Treburkulosis (07-19-2024)
#36
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Is there really anyway to straighten it out or at least be able to get the fender, hood, etc lined back up? Any advise or experiences is welcome[/QUOTE]
it stinks to find damage after you bought it. You definitely will learn from this experience. BUT almost any car can be fixed. Yours was crashed and fixed poorly. But it’s not horrible damage. It can definitely be fixed. And it deserves to be fixed.
it stinks to find damage after you bought it. You definitely will learn from this experience. BUT almost any car can be fixed. Yours was crashed and fixed poorly. But it’s not horrible damage. It can definitely be fixed. And it deserves to be fixed.
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Treburkulosis (07-19-2024)
#37
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Definitely tool a good whack to the driver side front corner. Bracket wise the only difference between a trams am and a firebird is the fog lights. Since the move locations tk the center they have a bracket that attaches them to the crash bar. Its really hard tk see the extent of the damage with the body panels still on. Taking the bumper and fender off would give you a good idea of the extent of the damage. These are crumple zone cars by design so the car crumples under impact to protect the passengers. It's why you see so much deflection in the core support.
The t top gap would be the most concerning part to me, it would have to take a really hard lick to mis shape the window support and seeing how little effort was spent on the damage visible under the hood, damage would be visible in the door jam and t top area of the roof most likely. If that was the case the car should have been totalled which would mean rebuilt title.
Don't let what I just said scare you, its also possible they did a window glass repair and didnt line the trim up properly. If the window post was truly damaged enough to make that kind of gap, your t top wouldn't go in correctly and the windows wouldn't seal well either. So I'm guessing that's just poor workmanship rather than damage. Having thst fender off would give you a good idea of the extent though.
The t top gap would be the most concerning part to me, it would have to take a really hard lick to mis shape the window support and seeing how little effort was spent on the damage visible under the hood, damage would be visible in the door jam and t top area of the roof most likely. If that was the case the car should have been totalled which would mean rebuilt title.
Don't let what I just said scare you, its also possible they did a window glass repair and didnt line the trim up properly. If the window post was truly damaged enough to make that kind of gap, your t top wouldn't go in correctly and the windows wouldn't seal well either. So I'm guessing that's just poor workmanship rather than damage. Having thst fender off would give you a good idea of the extent though.