Painting Wheels?
Painting Wheels? I just picked up a set of WS6 wheels for the winter. I would like to paint them to look like the CETA wheels. What is the process and products I need to get the best "glossy" black looking wheels possible?
i would get them powdercoated it withstands better. if you paint the wheels and u use a brush to clean them your scratch the hell out of them. also some rim cleaners will eat at the paint.
I had a set of wheels painted black by a body shop. Cost was $100. They came out perfect. I just got lucky since the shop was painting a black car and they just used the same paint in the gun.
if the wheels are chromed they need to be stripped. if your just gunna have them for winter painting them will be ok just clean them with a terry cloth or microfiber cloth instead on a brush and use warm soapy water.
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and the powdercoating process eats away our wheels and can cause failure
painting is the best thing to do
a quote directly from trackbird:
DO NOT powdercoat wheels (at least not aluminum ones). I know of a couple failures after powdercoating. The baking of the powdercoating can anneal the aluminum (it loses it's temper and gets soft). I've seen them bend, and I saw the hub section (center) crack completely out of a 1997 Corvette "wagon wheel". I'd pass on the powdercoating.
I got a wheel paint in a rattle can from Eastwood and cleared it with a duplicolor wheel clear. I plan to scuff the wheels and shoot over them with Eastwood's Diamond Clear (also rattle can) later. It has held up well so far.
My process:
I got a powerful degreaser ("Purple Power") and cleaned the wheel inside and out, wetsanded with 320 grit sandpaper, scuffed it with a wet maroon scuff pad using a surface prep agent ("SEM Soap"), washed it with soap and water, and allowed it to dry. Before painting I wiped the wheels down with a silicone remover and applied Bulldog adhesion promoter before topcoating with the rattle can wheel paint. I followed the instructions of the paint as how long to wait before clearcoating (in this case overnight, but most only need 1 hour). Basically treated it like any other painting job, only I used 320 because they were wheels.
It should be noted though, that my wheels were extremely dirty on the inside and I needed to use steel wool and lacquer thinner on the inside of the wheel to get it clean.
My process:
I got a powerful degreaser ("Purple Power") and cleaned the wheel inside and out, wetsanded with 320 grit sandpaper, scuffed it with a wet maroon scuff pad using a surface prep agent ("SEM Soap"), washed it with soap and water, and allowed it to dry. Before painting I wiped the wheels down with a silicone remover and applied Bulldog adhesion promoter before topcoating with the rattle can wheel paint. I followed the instructions of the paint as how long to wait before clearcoating (in this case overnight, but most only need 1 hour). Basically treated it like any other painting job, only I used 320 because they were wheels.
It should be noted though, that my wheels were extremely dirty on the inside and I needed to use steel wool and lacquer thinner on the inside of the wheel to get it clean.
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Sand/Grind them down put some dp250 on then dp40(both primers)then put a couple base coats of black on do a nice final coat Slap some clear should have some good lookin rims.Know a guy that has some. My advice mix your own paint dont go with that duplicolor **** i dont like it maybe im just to old school tho
