chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

It is supposed to adhere to plastic, and I'm just trying to get my intake manifold to look more stock, so I'm not going for the shiny polished theme. Just want a flat black.

Any assistance?

Fixvet

I've been researching paints etc. on www.duplicolor.com

They have a lot of good info. I'm painting my intake manifold satin black, then burnish it lightly with OO steelwool. I've done it before on other parts and it looks great.

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

Thanks! I'll give that a shot

Fixvet

Check this too.................

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....61&postcount=9

bryan04h

iTrader: (2)

hey post up some pics man, i want to see this...it sounds like it would be pretty cool looking, but kinda hard to picture without..pictures...

Fixvet

I'm not finished with my intake yet, but this is a pic of an ACI splitter on my C5. I used only Duplicolor stuff........black primer and satin black paint. I gently rubbed it with the 00 steelwool to give it a nice burnished look. Got lots of compliments on the look, rather than gloss black like most of them. I was also going to shoot some satin clear on it, but never did once I used the steelwool. This pic is just alittle out of focus, but you can still see it okay. I've since sold the splitter, or I would shoot some new shots for you. I'll do that when I finish the intake and fuel rail covers on my vette.

98BlkBrd

what do you mean by "burnish"...U mean you scuff it? or is this a different proccess?

Fixvet

Yeah, it's sorta like scuffing, but done very lightly. Since the double aught "00" steelwool is very very fine, it leaves a very nice smooth surface. Burnishing is actually a process of lightly scrapeing with a metal tool to remove gloss, mostly done on small objects. And I prefer the satin look rather that gloss on the engine bay plastic accessories, or parts like the LS nylon 66 intake manifold etc.

It sorta looks like wet sanded paint before you polish it out. I just like the duller look on this stuff.

DBanks

iTrader: (5)

Fusion is tough paint to work with. If you make a mistake, chemical stripping is very difficult. I would make sure your area is 100% ready for paint before using it. Also, with the shape of the intake, its going to be tough to wet sand the unit for the right look. All things to consider.

98BlkBrd

Fix..after you burnish do you need to clear coat the surface?
if so wha do you use and does clear coat come in demp ranges?

Fixvet

Sorry for not replying sooner, didn't see your reply . No, I never did the clear coat. It always looked good and cleaned up well without it.

98BlkBrd

man ...i just got a PM saying I had a word spelled wrong in my Sig * deleted now too much hasle* and now after reading my last Q I see I muffed up again.....guess typing after staying up all night with my newborn isn't the smartest thing....


Fix.. thanks for the info I'll file it and be sure to try it on my next paint project.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

and I confess, I'm the do-gooder.
Hope I didn't upset the applecart.
Congrats on your newborn! Thanks for serving, too!

Fixvet

Sure, that's cool!! My thanks too, for standing guard of your great country!!
Congrats on the newest addition to your family!!

bsf

iTrader: (7)

Fixvet, good to see you found Parbreak’s write-up. I think following that write-up very closely will yield very nice results for rattle-can work. Prep is extremely important. I cannot speak to longevity, since I only did mine this year.

Fixvet

[QUOTE=bsf;8366605]Fixvet, good to see you found Parbreak’s write-up. I think following that write-up very closely will yield very nice results for rattle-can work. Prep is extremely important. I cannot speak to longevity, since I only did mine this year.[QUOTE=bsf;8366605]

Cool! Yeah, I'm getting some great feedback from alot of guys on several forums. Hey, we can never have too much info, eh?

Man, your TA motor looks very cool. You did a good job modded the C5 frc's I like the sanitary look of your engine bay.
:

bsf

iTrader: (7)

I did not mod the frc's. Parbreak painted my frc’s and air lid, and did excellent work. When I decided to pay him to do it I was leery about doing them myself.

I spent a ton of time on my engine bay, and learned much. First time I did anything like this. If I did it again, I would do things differently. I would keep the metal polishing to a minimum; too much work. If not cost prohibitive, I would pay a shop to chrome the TB, MAF, AC accumulator, and other parts. If I did not chrome a part, I would just paint it (not the AC accumulator). Considering all the crap I painted (intake manifold, valve covers, coil brackets, front engine cover, power steering pump bracket, power steering cooler, belt tensioner, air filter assembly, water pump, etc), I should have bought or borrowed a sufficient spray gun and compressor. I could have re-painted the engine bay w/ real automotive base + clear. Next time around I would do the frc’s and air lid myself. Bla bla bla.

The important thing is that Parbreak wrote up an excellent tutorial, and I think if followed you can achieve pretty good results w/ spray cans. If you can use a suitable spray gun, you may want to investigate that route, though. Regardless, do not f**k yourself by skimping on the prep. Sand that intake down smooth and clean it properly prior to applying adhesion promoter. Some people do not put the time into sanding the texture out of the intake before painting, and I do not like the result at all.