01bird58

iTrader: (9)

I have an 01 black TA and the number of swirl marks keeps increasing no matter how hard I try to prevent them (a porter cable can only do so much). Being a clear coat noob, can a fresh new clear coat cover all the blemishes in the paint? How much will a quality clear coat cost?

I also hear it is bad to put more than 3-4 coats on a paint job. How many does a car come with from the factory? If I add a coat on, it wont make the car look dull, will it?

Beyond Static

iTrader: (5)

Have you tried a high speed buffer with a black foam pad and some 3M buffing glaze? I would bring it to a professional detail shop before painting it.

fast377

iTrader: (52)

I would do this first. 3m's buffing and polishing compounds kick ***. You can load a car up with clear if you do it right. You just have to do a few coats, let it dry, wet sand it, then clear it again. But your car is black, so you are going to see EVERYTHING.

01bird58

iTrader: (9)

Good point, I should probably bring it to a pro first before I blow some dough on a new clear coat. Although I get great results from a porter cable and Meguiars polishers, its not enough being as **** as I am. I cant stand black

Fast_94_Z

iTrader: (12)

ive never found satisfaction with meguiars buffing products especially their diamond cut 2.0 swirl remover. it comes off right after you wash it. the porter cable is a great unit but for bad swirl marks i find this is the best method. this is the buffing method i use for hardcore swirl marks and cars that havent been detailed and need extra care.. everything is the 3M Perfect-It 3000 line and use with a dewalt buffer with a 9" wool pad and 8" foam pads. i do one panel at a time aswell and be sure to use plenty of compound so you dont burn through.i take the extra cut compound and buff with a wool pad at 1800rpm(dont wanna dig in), then i take the rubbing compound at 2000rpm and a wool pad, then the swirl remover and a black pad at 1600rpm, then ultrafina swirl eliminator and an ultrafina pad at 1400rpm, and finally i take a d/a and a 6" black pad and use a the final glaze. thats it for the buffing then i give it a good wash using a microfiber mit, drying with a blower and a cobra microfiber gluzzler towel and give it a good wax.

Whistler

iTrader: (46)

A clear coating will cost about 90% of a full paint job, because all the work is the same minus one step (the basecoat). Try everything suggested above first, or have a professional detailer take a crack at it.

fast377

iTrader: (52)

Almost exactly what I do...except I use a Makita buffer. After I buff everything, I go over it all again with 3m's hand glaze (sometimes I just use the polish compund instead) with the blue paper towels. I know it sounds bad to use paper towels on fresh paint, but they are one of the few things I have found that leave NO marks.

Fast_94_Z

iTrader: (12)

yeah the meguiars hand glaze, and their other products are good. i just dont like any of their buffing stuff. i use all their nxt stuff for cleaning and waxing and stuff like that. but when i first started working in this new shop they had 3M compound and then the meguiars diamond cut 2.0 swirl remover. the compound is great but when i used swirl remover it looked good inside and when i first got it outside. i get to washing it and drying it off and i get it outside i take one last look at it and am like WTF!!!!!!! the diamond cut swirl remover is almost like buffing a heavy wax into the paint. if you appy wax straight on straight off it will cover the lighter swirl marks but after a few washs ull c them again. i usually buff it in with a black pad and then after washing it once u see them again and i have to use the hand glaze to get rid of them. with the 3m system i use i have never had a problem.

01bird58

iTrader: (9)

I have been using Meguiars #80 and #83. The majority of blemishes get significantly dulled after I use the porter cable on it, but most do come back after a bunch of washes.

Thanks for the advice Fast94Z, those instruction sound a little too advanced for me to attempt though.

With a clear coat costing 90% of a full paint job there is no way I would do this before going to a pro buffer first.

Fast_94_Z

iTrader: (12)

yeah go to a professional first because i use specific pads made just for the perfect it 3000 line and i also buy in gallon form because i buff my cars and a lot of other peoples cars. but even if you buy in 16oz cost could go up a bit but to me its well worth the buck.

Boosted 99 TA

iTrader: (1)

3m products are the best to use. 3-4 coats of clear is about all you need any more than that is a waste and is just building up to much material which makes your paint less durable. and later if you ever wreck it, it would be harder to repair

sapper_daddy

iTrader: (12)

dude i have tried hitting my car with the black swirl remover and ultrafina polishes and I can't get it to take the machine marks. I don't have any scratches just swirl marks and I'm getting pissed off!

Fast_94_Z

iTrader: (12)

if the swirl marks have been there for awhile they probably arent gunna come out. i did my buddies car because it looked like someone took a dry wool pad to his car. he left it like that for who knows how long and i finally got time to attempt to fix it. i tried everything to get them out and they just wouldnt come out.

Beyond Static

iTrader: (5)

I'm assuming the swirls are caused by buffing? On the last pass with the buffer, use very light pressure. After that, I put my black foam pad on the DA sander, and go over it with that, which kills most of the remaining swirls. Finally, lay on a good coat of wax. Black is a pain. It looks good in some lights, but horrible in others.

Fast_94_Z

iTrader: (12)

yeah swirls normally are caused by buffing. i mean it could be a numerous amount of things like not having enough compound, moving the buffer to slow, using to strong of a compound and then not a strong glaze, having the buffer on 2 high of a speed or on 2 much of an angle. i mean theres a lot of reasons there could be swirl marks. like i said im my process i buff with a wool pad or foam pad(which ever prefered) and compound, then a black pad and swirl remover(polishing glaze) and a black foam pad, then ultrafina and an ultrafina pad, and then hit everything with a d/a and "final glaze" and then a couple good coats of wax. . wash it real good but not applying to much pressure and then drying it with a water blade and a heated blower that i have because towels can catch dirt which in a black car ull see the scratches. i use the whole 3m perfect line in the step by step process they have and i get awesome results every time except of cars that have had rediculous swirl marks forever and havent been taken care of right away and i cant put the time into it because they need their car in a couple of hours. black needs the most car and needs the most attention. also i remember something in here being said about having blemishes in certain spots. in the line of product i use they specifically make a spot repair compound that works nicely.