Removing paint from OEM SS hood
#1
Removing paint from OEM SS hood
Im painting a hood its a OEM SS hood that is currently silver and im painting it red. I dont use the DA a whole lot since I usually start with a new panel or from bare metal when I paint. What grit on the DA do you guys recommend I dont want to just rough it up I want to smooth it out and get it down to the primer atleast. Im going to high build it after and block it so just curious from some of you guys that use the DA more often which grit I should start out with. I was guessing somewhere from 220-320 to start out with.
Thanks
Thanks
#3
Well its only been painted once I think with the original paint but it has nicks and everything. I went at it last night by hand and it was just taking way to long so I have to bring out the DA. I might have to give the 180 a try and possibly pick up some 220 also. Any more suggestions?
#6
I think you stand a high chance of making a mess out of it trying to strip it with a DA regardless of paper grit. If it's only been painted once or twice, no big deal. Just repair the chips with a polyester fill and prime it. If you're insistant on removing the paint, drop it off at a media blaster and have it shot with walnut shell or plastic media. That will remove the old paint and not touch the gelcoat.
#7
Explain the making a mess out of it going at it with a DA? You have to sand the top layer regardless, so primer will stick. Also if you are repainting it, it doesn't have to be stripped of all the old paint unless the paint is in really poor shape.
SBP
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#8
i think what he is getting at, it is really easy if you are not carefull to dig into the fiberglass with a da especially with a grit in the 220-320 range. Then you will have a whole lot more problems. I would say scuff it up, fill in any problems with glazing, prime, block then paint. I wouldn't take it down. Just my .02
#9
experience plays a huge factor here guys, using a d.a. on glass with experience is not a bad thing, keep it moving, and not stand in one place will be fine, i would do 180, then 240, primer, block primer, more primer, wet sand, sealer, base, clear
easy
easy
#10
Yeh im not exactly a rookie Ive been painting for awhile and atho I havnt used the DA a ton I know how to use it. My dad does restoration for a living so ive been around it a long time but he always works on old cars and everything is taken down to bare metal so that why I have questions about what grit is best on the DA.
#11
Yeh im not exactly a rookie Ive been painting for awhile and atho I havnt used the DA a ton I know how to use it. My dad does restoration for a living so ive been around it a long time but he always works on old cars and everything is taken down to bare metal so that why I have questions about what grit is best on the DA.
If you have little or no experience with a DA then you shouldnt be stripping a glass hood with one. You could easily make a mess out of it and end up with an inconsistant surface that will need to be primed/blocked a couple of times to make it right again. Then your right back where you started, with a hood that has a lot of material build up.
You dont want to break through the gel coat ither, if you do the finish will die back/shrink everywhere the composite has been exposed. No matter how many times you collor sand/polish it out it will return in time.
#12
If you had to post this thread then yes you are a rookie.
If you have little or no experience with a DA then you shouldnt be stripping a glass hood with one. You could easily make a mess out of it and end up with an inconsistant surface that will need to be primed/blocked a couple of times to make it right again. Then your right back where you started, with a hood that has a lot of material build up.
You dont want to break through the gel coat ither, if you do the finish will die back/shrink everywhere the composite has been exposed. No matter how many times you collor sand/polish it out it will return in time.
If you have little or no experience with a DA then you shouldnt be stripping a glass hood with one. You could easily make a mess out of it and end up with an inconsistant surface that will need to be primed/blocked a couple of times to make it right again. Then your right back where you started, with a hood that has a lot of material build up.
You dont want to break through the gel coat ither, if you do the finish will die back/shrink everywhere the composite has been exposed. No matter how many times you collor sand/polish it out it will return in time.
#13
The prep is 80% of paint and anyone who has done some amount of paint work will have experience with a DA... or at least know how to take care of rock chips/debris damage.
#14
Like I said ive used the da but most the cars we work on are dipped or stripped to bare metal then we use the da to clean up the metal. I just like to get as much paint off as possible and to help smooth it out I know I could just fill the chips and go but that was not what I was wanting to do. The hood is not perfect from the factory.
#15
If you have experience, you should know what to do already. You wouldn't have to ask. I don't know of anyone that does body work or paint work that doesn't use a DA on a regular basis. Looks like your on the rite track. Also got the best place ever to ask questions. Good luck on getting it done.
SBP
#16
I was looking for suggestions so forget it im not posting in the body section cause its mostly full of guys who think they are professionals because they never ask questions. I guess I dont have experiance lmao