Line pressure
sorry I did not capture the picture wiyh this info try a search hope this helps
Firmer Shifts-A4.. FREEEE MOD!!!
Put this one in the free mod section...... While talking to a friend of mine about my tranny problems he advised me to change the fluid and there is a solinoid on the back of the passenger side that has an electrical conector on it. Take the connector off, and there is a cap that has 3 bolts on it right behind the solinoid remove this but be careful and don't flip it over (components may fall out, bad thing) take a star head socket and tighten the screw in the middle of the solinoid only about an 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn, but make sure not to tighten anymore than that or it could cause some tranny problems. put everything back on and you will notice a big difference in your shifts. Turn a little and you'll tel a little bit of difference, turn a little less than 1/4 of a turn and it'll bark em pretty good when the gears change. I did mine about 1/8 of a turn and it is right on the edge of breaking the tires loose. I think i need some sub-frame connectors now!
By the way this info was provided by a Tranny Shop owner.
that is the pressure regulator for the line pressure. you just increased the line pressure so it should shift harder nothing wrong with doing it.But he is right no more than 1/4 turn or you'll start blowing lines and selinoids.You can always use SFC they are a great add on for a stock car stiffens up the car alot.Its like putting in a shift from B&M>>> but don't do this if you already have a shift kit.<<
maximum, mechanically regulated line pressure.
In addition to this there is a PWM-controlled
regulator that adjusts between this hard max
and zero pressure (not really, but potentially)
in the hydraulics based on engine load and other
PCM notions.
The programmers can only touch the latter. I think
that at WOT you should be seeing the PWM reg
giving you full line pressure and only upping the
mechanical end will do anything to that. However
messing the mechanical around puts you at risk of
blowing out seals or similar damage from more line
than the thing was made to take. This is why you
shouldn't dick with it blind, you want a line
pressure gauge, an idea of the safe max and a
careful hand.
The PWM settings (shift pressure / firmness and
adaptation time) can make a really big difference
in how the car responds. In particular the shift
adaptation time setting seems to make a lot
faster and firmer shift especially if you have
also removed TM (torque management). The part-
throttle is very noticeable and you can lose that
feathered 2-3 pretty much. This is my experience
from the Predator.
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