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LT1/Tunercats help!!!

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Old May 31, 2009 | 12:34 AM
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Default LT1/Tunercats help!!!

I am working with my 94' Camaro LT1 M6. Mods: 255intank,42# injectors, DIY rear mount making 6psi.
I am a noob when it comes to tuning, I cuurently have the car running not very well, but running. in open loop idle is very lean 16-18.0 on WB. I went through and set up injectors on the constant table, I am using the stock open loop AFR vs. temp vs. map. any help here would be great.
as for wot it's very rich 10.3 what table will I pull fuel from WOT vs. RPM or WOT vs. map?
I read a few threads saying you can set your target AFR in WOT vs. RMP and zero out the WOT vs. map, is that correct if so how is this done?
once again any help here would be great!
I can email my current tune to anybody that can help!
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Old May 31, 2009 | 11:57 AM
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still could use help....
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Old May 31, 2009 | 12:25 PM
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Email me your tune, as well as a list of ALL your mods.

edcmat-l1@msn.com
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 04:18 PM
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im sitting in the same boat as you. I just supercharged my 97 z28
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 08:42 AM
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Read through this. Even if you do not elect to follow his method, it should be considered. Your results may vary due to individual differences in setups, such as sensor location, overall engine health, and electrical system health, and tuning methods. Seems to have worked for the OP and for me as well.

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=210424
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Rocko350
Read through this. Even if you do not elect to follow his method, it should be considered. Your results may vary due to individual differences in setups, such as sensor location, overall engine health, and electrical system health, and tuning methods. Seems to have worked for the OP and for me as well.

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=210424
I know that link is a blast from the past but they are wrong! Yes you can run a 2 bar with a maf, and no you will not max out the PE tables nor have huge numbers as said. I tuned my 95 supercharged LT1, Stock PCM, 2 bar back in around 97, absolutely no tip in issues, great drivability, no lag, no surge, Perfect street manners, idle to wot and my A/F was always spot on. I also have 85 lb injectors with a driver. I posted some of this back then and recently and people came in and said BS, cant be done and so on. Some took my advice and replies how easy it was and their car ran way better, The reason you go 2 bar is because 1 bar reads 0 to 14 inches of vacum and 2 bar reads 0 to 14lbs of boost (pressure), perfect for straight out tuning, No having to cut values in half as said, with a 1 bar yes, 2 bar no. Like I said in other post, I even tried 2 mafs, didnt work, also back in the day the kits would instruct you to put the maf on the intake side, I found it better on the pressure side,Now all say to install it on the pressure side (Not cause of me) but thru trial and error. Can you run SD? Of course, do you have to? no. It is all preference..Age ole maxing out the maf, Hmmm, Mine 648 RWHP on pump, 722 RWHP on the fast gas all with in the range of 14lbs..
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 11:49 AM
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1 bar does not read 0-14 inches of vacuum. This statement alone puts all your remarks in serious question.

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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 1320
1 bar does not read 0-14 inches of vacuum. This statement alone puts all your remarks in serious question.

Really, then what does 1 bar Read?? 7 psi of boost? Hmmm, Wonder why all N/a motors come with a 1 bar and factory boosted motors come with a 2 bar And like I said this is why I never posted because of comments like yours. I dont give a dam if anyone believes me or not, I have done it , It worked. End of story..

By the way:
Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Information

MAP sensors, or Manifold Absolute Pressure sensors, have two specific responsibilities in the engine management system: measure barometric pressure at key on, and report engine load to the powertrain control module. The powertrain control module uses the information for proper air/fuel mixture control under all operating loads and altitude conditions.

A common addition to boost horsepower on today's engines is a turbocharger. Turbochargers contain two turbines; one is driven by the engines exhaust flow, the other moves ambient air from an external source into the engines air intake system. The task of the turbocharger is to compact more air into the combustion chamber than the engine would be capable of ingesting on its own. When you compact additional air into the combustion chamber, the engine will also require more fuel. When you have the combination of more air and fuel in the combustion chamber, the end result is more power. A system such as this allows a vehicle to have a fuel-efficient engine, yet create an abundance of torque when the engine is pressed into a higher RPM range.

Fuel control on engines today is performed by the engine's computer system. The computer analyzes the sensor inputs and then calculates the amount of fuel that is needed for the engine to maintain an air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1, which is the stoichiometric value, or the most efficient mixture of air and fuel. Because the turbocharger is changing the engine's calculated air intake value by pumping air into the engine, the engine load value must be measured differently. A sensor that is capable of adapting to both a positive and negative pressure within an engine is required when utilizing a turbocharger. Manufacturers will use sensors that can read these pressures at a barometric pressure multiplied times 1, 2 or 3.

A 1 BAR MAP sensor reports barometric pressure times one, which is approximately 14.7 psi or 30in/Hg (inches of mercury).
As an example, a typical three wire MAP sensor has 5 volts and ground to power the circuit. The signal circuit, or return voltage to the computer, is about 4.5 volts at barometric pressure of 14.7 psi; this measurement is taken at key on engine off. The sensor can withstand about 1.5 BAR of pressure, but the return voltage will peak out at about 4.8 volts. This type of sensor is designed for a normally aspirated engine to read a negative pressure, or vacuum, at a typical barometric pressure.

2 BAR or 3 BAR simply mean two or three times above barometric pressure. The sensor will measure each direction, vacuum or pressure.

For reference:

* 1 BAR is for a normally aspirated engine
* 2 BAR will handle a forced induction up to 14.5 psi of boost
* 3 BAR will handle a forced induction up to 29.0 psi of boost


Return voltage on a 2 or 3 BAR sensor at key on engine off will be approximately 2.5 volts @ 30in/Hg pressure depending on the sensor calibration. The engine vacuum, or pressure if it's in boost, will send the voltage below or above the 2.5 volt level.

A vehicle's computer is calibrated to function at a specific level as programmed by the design engineer. A 2 or 3 BAR MAP sensor placed in a system designed for a 1 BAR sensor will not function correctly; in fact the system will run very rich because of the low return voltage signal. A computer that is programmable is a must for any tuner attempting to boost their engine's output with the addition of a turbocharger and a 2 or 3 BAR MAP sensor.
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 09:11 PM
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You answered your own question? I dont get it, you , first you said 0-14 inches......inches of vacuum is NOT = to psi. In your own reply which is correct it says to 14.7 psi which equals about 30 inches of mercury. Or basically sea level air pressure. A 1 bar sensor reads na pressure because thats all it sees, 14.7 psi or one bar or sea level.

BTw they read both sides of zero, not ussually 0 to some number, but rather 30 inchs of vacuum to 0 to 30 inches of pressure , thats a 1 bar sensor. Ie 30 inches of pressure equals about 14.7 psi or NA.
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 1320
You answered your own question? I dont get it, you , first you said 0-14 inches......inches of vacuum is NOT = to psi. In your own reply which is correct it says to 14.7 psi which equals about 30 inches of mercury. Or basically sea level air pressure. A 1 bar sensor reads na pressure because thats all it sees, 14.7 psi or one bar or sea level.

BTw they read both sides of zero, not ussually 0 to some number, but rather 30 inchs of vacuum to 0 to 30 inches of pressure , thats a 1 bar sensor. Ie 30 inches of pressure equals about 14.7 psi or NA.
Man you just dont get it, read your own findings I can see there is no explaining this to you, obviously you do not understand. then why are na cars running 1 bar and boosted cars from the factory run 2 bar. Like I said, dont care, dont need to explain.Do it your way. Mine been running for 10 years with no problems. I guess all of the people that were trying the other way, having nothing but problems, when they did it this way they said they couldnt beleive how easy it was and their cars ran great..But again this is not true...
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 11:02 AM
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Now your using a red herring. My point was obviously the basic under standing of the range of the map sensor. I did not say your car doesnt run well, or anything related to that. It does seem rational to question your other opinions related to topic since its centered around the range and operation of the map sensor though. You may be correct, your car may run great, thats good, we just never got that far because of the statement "0 to 14 inches of vacuum" which by your own follow up post you can see is incorrect. You should understand me atleast questioning you then, even if it was some sort of typo.

Man, Ill just go back to FI where map sensors read 30-0-30inches for 1 bar.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 11:50 AM
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my car idles at 16-17 afr. i dont think thats bad. and from what ive seen. most people adjust the maf table. alot of those turbo buick guys run a ls1 maf and tune with it.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 02:00 PM
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A 1 bar map sensor reads 1 atmosphere, 14.7psi as we all know.. But don’t forget earths atmosphere is already at 14.7 psi, around 12psi here in Denver. So in inches hg, or vac, determines proper fueling up to WOT for N.A. cars. also Hg inches does not equate to psi on the same spectrum.
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