The car was throwing codes for MAF sensor, reverse lockout solenoid and skip shift. They are all connected to the #20 ENG SEN fuse which was blown. I replaced the fuse and took it for a drive and it blew again. Anyone have any idea where to start looking for a short? Thanks.

 

how quick did it blow? Were you stopped when the light came back on (indicating it could be the reverse lockout) or were you in 1st getting ready to shift into 2nd? (could be the cags selonoid)

first thing i would do is disconnect the slp !cags unit.

Then get a ohm meter, test the resistance of the reverse, and the cags unit.

Swap mafs if you can find an extra one.

Ryan.

 

All these things happened at once. I took it to the dealer and they gave me the codes. I checked the fuse for the lockout solenoid and thought it was ok so I replaced the solenoid. It did not fix it. Today I threw on another MAF from an 02 Firehawk and took it to the dealer (I know a few guys there) to have them delete the codes. They did so and the codes came right back on. Turns out I was checking the wrong fuse before because for some reason the fuse box covers were switched. We switched the fuse and deleted the codes again. This time everything worked fine so I left. A few miles down the road I tried reverse again and it was hard as hell to get into. I got home shut it off and started it again and the SES light was on again. Checked the fuse and it was blown.

 

Common problem the sensor fuse also powers the O2 sensor heater circuits.

1 of them is prolly shorted out.(common)

The fun part is finding out which one!

Did you get a poor heater performance code on an O2??

 

As a matter of fact yes, it was throwing codes for the O2 sensors. How would I go about checking those circuits?

 

Any O2 sensor heater performance codes??

You have to test the amperage draw of the suspect O2 to see if there is a problem.

 

I had this problem on the GF's car... Found the O2 sensor connector (vehicle side) was resting against a bolt, and it eventually wore through the insulation on the pink (+12V) wire.

 

This is basic electrical troubleshooting. You need a schmatic and a VOM. Pull the fuse. Disconnect all of the devices on this circuit at the connectors. Reinstall fuse. Plug devices in ONE AT A TIME and check the fuse. You must operate the associated device, but you already knew that right? When the fuse blows you have found the faulty circuit. Now troulbeshoot that circuit by itself. If you don't know how to do that part your already in over your head and should have taken the vehicle to a shop by now. You can always put in on OVERRATED fuse like a 100 A fuse in a 20 A circuit. When you see smoke you know you have found the problem. Now just replace all the parts that you let the smoke out of. It's real hard to get that smoke back in. They pay people a lot of money at the factory where they make those parts to put the smoke in them and once you let the smoke out it's almost impossible to get it back in, but it can be done if your very fast.