got-a-ls1

iTrader: (12)

what missing parameters in hptuners would allow this problem to be solved with efi live? Dont just say one is better because it has more parameters. Id like to know what efi live has that would solve this problem over hp tuners.... not trying to start ****. im really interested if the missing parameters mean anything or are a sales pitch for "more is better".

but hptuners has done everything for me that i have needed. i know efi live was another 300 bucks that i didnt need to spend.

ctd

iTrader: (1)

Tool is a good as the one using it!

5.7 ute

Got to love the internet. One person posts about not drilling the TB blade & suddenly it is a sacking offence if this method is used.
Without any logs etc posted or your actual hardware in hand it is hard for anyone to really be of any help. Since you are at altitude with the low baro that comes with it, IMO you MAY need to both tweak the throttle blade position & (gasp) drill the throttle blade to get the necessary idle airflow.

CalEditor

iTrader: (1)

It really doesn't matter how it gets the air as long as it metered air. Turn the screw or drill a hole. I perfer to trun the screw. Yes the tables still need to be adjusted.
If it has a screw then it is a DBC setup. If it was a DBW you wouldn't need to do either. It would be all tables

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

The screw is there to keep the blade from sticking in the bore when closed. Not to adjust airflow. GM puts a hole in the blade from the factory. They must really not know what they are doing.

2000_SS

iTrader: (24)

you can only adjust the blade so far before the TPS starts reading more than 0%. you can open it a bit and reset it to read 0%, but only so far. If you're IAC counts aren't low enough at hot idle, you may need to drill a hole/enlarge the hole in your TB blade.

i'm no expert, but i've had this issue before and if there's a better fix for it, i'm all ears.

JNR_Design

iTrader: (3)

What others things has he checked for, besides the 'tune'? I mean the basics to eliminate...vacuum, plugs, wires, etc. Unless this is something radical (your setup), then I'd try everything else first; otherwise it's a bandaid to another problem/issue.

coD

Airflow is only one leg of the triangle. If spark and fuel are jacked up, all the air in the galaxy won't matter.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

You can get whatever air you need, by the IAC. If somebody
doesn't how to use the tools they have, why hand them an
axe?

CalEditor

iTrader: (1)

You need the IAC counts in a range (say 40 to 60), hot, at idle in park. You need the IAC park set properly. You need the Adaptive idle set correctly.

I have a car that I was attempting to tune remotely with 272° duration and I had a real issue. I was getting bad data-logs (PID's weren't correct). Long story on a hybid PCM setup.

You have a few parameters that you can mess up.

Datzneat

iTrader: (4)

The first thing I checked for was a vacuum leak. Plugs and wires are good as well.

CalEditor

iTrader: (1)

On the car I was tuning the IAC counts would be at 100. Just like I have seen before. The Car would idle fine. If you reved the car when it was below 176° it would return to idle just fine. Over 176° it would not return to idle or even idle. He would have to let the car cool down to about 150°. I changed a lot of settings and after about 8 months I finally sent out a Tech II and then we found that the Clutch Switch was connected backwards. The PCM displayed Released when you pressed it in. Of course the car stalled coming to a stop also.
I started all over with the base tune. One more thing The engine was oversized by .6 liters. More air flowing across the sensor and the Desired and Target Idle Iac Air flow was always off. I could neverget it to line up, but then again it showed the clutch pressed. I needed the Tech II back so i told him he needed to Fly me out to Portland to get it fixed.

CalEditor

iTrader: (1)

Was is the IAC counts hot & @ idle?

Datzneat

iTrader: (4)

I'll have to get that info from the tuner. I know that when the car was allowed to cool down for a few it would do this less but when the fans kicked on it would do it every time. But I guess it could be because the car hadn't fully learned the new tune for those 15min, and by then the car had heated up. I'll see if he will send me the current tune also. He's going to take another look on Wednesday.

CalEditor

iTrader: (1)

On the hybrid car I was working on - First he drilled the hole out to get the IAC counts to 40. After that when you reved the gas when it was below 176° the IAC counts would go up to 120 or something and when you released the throttle the engine returned to Idle. After the engine reaches 176° and the throttle is opened the IAC goes to 0 counts. I didn't like the hole in the T-body so I sent him another T-body with the plug drilled out for the adjuster screw.

Anyway Look at the IAC count when the Idle is erratic also.

5.7 ute

So the high idle problem is related to the fans being on?

Datzneat

iTrader: (4)

Not entirely.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

I would agree but lately I've found alot of FAST 90/92mm TB's have a restrictive IAC hole.Meaning my cars would only control up to a 125IAC count.Anything over that would do nothing because the air passages were too small.

This makes it a bitch to tune a big cam/stroker motor.At cold start you can not get enough air into the motor without throttling it.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

For the original post.

If it was me I would start wit ha stock tune and go from there.Sounds like the tuner might of over tuned the car. If I spend too much time on a car chasing my tail I would just start over.Thats works alot of times.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

I had similar issues when I epoxied my TB IAC port, but a 3/8"
drill bit there fixed it right up. I was able to see the airflow vs
IAC readings flatline above about 200 counts which clued me
in.

Still the right place to drill is not the blade, because the blade
is only an offset to the low end and does not give you range.