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How do I tell a good tune from a bad tune ?

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Old 03-20-2011, 04:02 PM
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Default How do I tell a good tune from a bad tune ?

The local guy here in town has shown me his (book) of past tunes and was talking up how linear his AFR's where in the dyno sheet, is this a good indication of a good tune?

I am tempted though to trailer the car 500 miles round trip instead to a tuner that is 4 hours away and have him road tune it. (which would save around $200 dyno time)

Both the local tuner and the guy 4 hours away want $430 to tune my N/A new 6.0L

How do I tell a bad tune from a good tune? I have a Wide Band so obviously if the AFR's start changing and I am at 11.5 instead of 12.5 something is wrong with the tune I ASSUME ? LOL Remember I am not a tuner.

I am tempted to buy the HP Tuners pro for $630 if the road tune guy is willing to give me $100 off. Just so I can start learning and monitor things.

The local guy has said he would give me $100 offbuy the hp tuners and unlock my car, but he also wants me to pay $200 plus for someone else's dyno time.

What should I do?
Old 03-20-2011, 04:17 PM
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A good tune can not be told by looking at a AFR line on a dyno. You need to know what he has tuned and their references. IE Frost if you search his name there is atleast 50 threads praising him.

If you buy it then be prepaired to spend sometime learning and reading, it is very over whelming when you first look at it.

Where do you live?
Old 03-20-2011, 07:28 PM
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all i can say is a good tuner is worth your trip. alot of reputable tuners suck.


im glad i finally found one near where i live.
Old 03-20-2011, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by adrynalinjunkie
I am at 11.5 instead of 12.5 something is wrong with the tune I ASSUME ? LOL Remember I am not a tuner
E10% correct
Old 03-20-2011, 09:43 PM
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I live in eastern washington state but I am looking at going to seattle or portland or even boise idaho. I have driven 500 miles roundtrip for a good tune before and I will do it again if I need to be
Old 03-20-2011, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by adrynalinjunkie
I live in eastern washington state but I am looking at going to seattle or portland or even boise idaho. I have driven 500 miles roundtrip for a good tune before and I will do it again if I need to be
I grew up in Washougal.

You know how some tuners say every engine is different even 2 with the same parts. Each one takes a different amount of timing and a different AFR. I feel it has a lot to do with the fuel blend.

One thing to keep in mind is that you need more fuel with higher ambient temps when running E10%+. The oxygen molecules in the ethanol are larger when the temp is higher. The Flex Fuel sensors GM trucks used had a fuel temp sensor in them just for that reason.


100° with E10% might require 11.5 to 1, but it does sound rich to me for Washinton state. Even on the dry side
Old 03-20-2011, 11:45 PM
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Buy the HPT Pro off eBay for cheap. Comes with enough credits to tune 4 cars, become a member of HPT forum and I'll help you all I can, along with some other good buddies of mine on the forum. Then you can make the tune how you want it, not how some halfass douche says he wants it. However, Frost is the one to talk to for all the questions you have. He has some spectacular tuning write ups.
Old 03-20-2011, 11:59 PM
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I agree with IDRIVEAG8GT, Check out the HPT forum. I believe HPT pro is like 650.00 fixed price anywhere you buy it though. Check your pm box.
Old 03-21-2011, 09:17 AM
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Every car is differnt. Most of mine will be a little richer around peak torque and lean out around peak hp. I see a lot of tunes that have the timing locked in at WOT too. Not always a bad thing but some motors like different things.

That afr line only shows the WOT tuning and only a portion of it at that. Most cars on the dyno only take a few hits to get WOT right. Idle and drivability take far more time.
Old 03-21-2011, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Gabbiani
Every car is differnt. Most of mine will be a little richer around peak torque and lean out around peak hp. I see a lot of tunes that have the timing locked in at WOT too. Not always a bad thing but some motors like different things.

That afr line only shows the WOT tuning and only a portion of it at that. Most cars on the dyno only take a few hits to get WOT right. Idle and drivability take far more time.
Best method of tuning I've seen so far is doing what Gabbiani just said. You don't really have a risk of hurting parts that way. Also, if you're running MAF and not SD, find the best gas you can with as little ethanol as possible, tune your MAF and WOT fueling for that fuel, and that way your MAF can predict fueling changes necessary if you do happen to get some of the rough Ethanol blended crap.
Old 03-21-2011, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by IDRIVEAG8GT
Best method of tuning I've seen so far is doing what Gabbiani just said. You don't really have a risk of hurting parts that way. Also, if you're running MAF and not SD, find the best gas you can with as little ethanol as possible, tune your MAF and WOT fueling for that fuel, and that way your MAF can predict fueling changes necessary if you do happen to get some of the rough Ethanol blended crap.
Ethanol and Nitrous have some similar effects to an engine. They both add Oxygen



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