P0327 knock sensor code question
P0327 knock sensor code question When I bought this car it had this code on it. Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input (Bank1). Previous owner said it turned on cause he accidently put 87 octane gas in the car the night before. 6 tanks of premium gas and 3 resets later, the code always comes back. I am beginning to think the KS is bad. How can I be sure that the KS is actually bad and is not actually detecting knock? Circuit Low Input means the sensor isnt sending anything, correct? Would I be getting a different code if there was actual knock, or wouldn't both sensors be going off? I just dont want to replace the KS if its not for sure bad. Car is a 2002 WS6 with 54k on it.
Late to the scene but I just went through this.
Just replace the knock sensor and make sure you check the harness while you are in there for damage. It might be worth just ordering a new one (I got mine from pace for 60 shipped #12601822).
If you happen to have oil instead of water in the knock sensor area pull the valley cover and inspect the grommets (mine was damaged and soaking the sensor in oil).
When you put everything together just make sure you route the harness in a safe area and be careful because it can become damaged while putting the intake back in place and you will end up with both codes on instead of just one.
Bottom line I spent weeks on this issue (had the intake off 5 times, not including the cam install).. it's not knock causing it unless you have some horrible engine knocking (and even then I'm not convinced it would throw P0327/P0332 codes). Replace the sensor and chances are everything will be great again.
If you have any questions feel free to ask... I've had the thing apart enough in the past 2 weeks I can probably answer just about any question you might have. For an easy picture guide read over this.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=5
It helped me a lot the first couple times I took the intake off.
Just replace the knock sensor and make sure you check the harness while you are in there for damage. It might be worth just ordering a new one (I got mine from pace for 60 shipped #12601822).
If you happen to have oil instead of water in the knock sensor area pull the valley cover and inspect the grommets (mine was damaged and soaking the sensor in oil).
When you put everything together just make sure you route the harness in a safe area and be careful because it can become damaged while putting the intake back in place and you will end up with both codes on instead of just one.
Bottom line I spent weeks on this issue (had the intake off 5 times, not including the cam install).. it's not knock causing it unless you have some horrible engine knocking (and even then I'm not convinced it would throw P0327/P0332 codes). Replace the sensor and chances are everything will be great again.
If you have any questions feel free to ask... I've had the thing apart enough in the past 2 weeks I can probably answer just about any question you might have. For an easy picture guide read over this.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=5
It helped me a lot the first couple times I took the intake off.
Thanks to both of you for the great replies. I have replaced knock sensors before on my old TA, but I just wanted to be sure before I destroyed myself on the stupid shark teeth on the cowl. Ill order new ks and harness soon and go from there.
It took me 1.5 days for me and my dad to replace mine. It would've only taken a day but we broke one of the small plastic vacuum lines as we were putting the intake back on.
Do yourself a favor, replace everything while you're in there. I know i never want to remove the intake again! I had 78k on mine and i put in a new oil pressure sending unit (there's a good chance you'll break this when taking off the intake anyway) new AC delco knock sensors and wiring harnesses (sdparts) and the MAP sensor because the seal was bad. Put some high temp RTV sealant around the rubber grommets and where the wire goes into the grommet.
Also do yourself a favor and extend your brake booster line so you have more room to work with and if you ever have to pull it off again there's of a less chance of breaking the OPSU.
Do yourself a favor, replace everything while you're in there. I know i never want to remove the intake again! I had 78k on mine and i put in a new oil pressure sending unit (there's a good chance you'll break this when taking off the intake anyway) new AC delco knock sensors and wiring harnesses (sdparts) and the MAP sensor because the seal was bad. Put some high temp RTV sealant around the rubber grommets and where the wire goes into the grommet.
Also do yourself a favor and extend your brake booster line so you have more room to work with and if you ever have to pull it off again there's of a less chance of breaking the OPSU.
And try to avoid buying the parts from the auto shop, just spend the extra couple of bucks and get authentic parts...Plus change the electrical harness because it can also be the cause of the code
Finally returned it when they ran out of them (got refunded) and went somewhere else. Trending Topics
I also changed the intake gaskets. Also, with the new OPSU my oil pressure reads much higher now, about 15-20psi higher idle and highway. Not sure if they tend to be less accurate with age or if the new one is off.
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well the bottom is my front sensor and the top is rear sensor... needless to say thats prolly why i was only getting the front code. Swap went very smoothly, took less then 2 hours.
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Joined: Aug 2011
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Posting in regards to a somewhat similar issue-SES knock sensor code with no noticeable knock (not sure which code, the AAP guy couldn't give me any more specific than that?
)So the general consensus is just change out both sensors regardless? What all should I do while I'm at it? Any way to prevent early knock sensor failure with, say, a piece of rubber tubing cut to fit over it or something? What needs to be done to not demolish the OPSU during intake removal?
Dang, that's a beautiful black you have there...
Posting in regards to a somewhat similar issue-SES knock sensor code with no noticeable knock (not sure which code, the AAP guy couldn't give me any more specific than that?)
So the general consensus is just change out both sensors regardless? What all should I do while I'm at it? Any way to prevent early knock sensor failure with, say, a piece of rubber tubing cut to fit over it or something? What needs to be done to not demolish the OPSU during intake removal?
Posting in regards to a somewhat similar issue-SES knock sensor code with no noticeable knock (not sure which code, the AAP guy couldn't give me any more specific than that?
)So the general consensus is just change out both sensors regardless? What all should I do while I'm at it? Any way to prevent early knock sensor failure with, say, a piece of rubber tubing cut to fit over it or something? What needs to be done to not demolish the OPSU during intake removal?
When you get all the bolts removed and "break the seal" so to speak, move just reach your hand in the back if you can and try and raise the brake booster vacuum line (the biggest vacuum line under the hood) over the OPSU. If you can fit your hand between the intake and cowl and reach the OPSU then you should not have a problem breaking it when taking it off. Just try and slip the large booster line over it while pulling the intake forward.
As you can see, earlier in the thread, i did a bit of research before changing mine and i decided to buy pretty much everything except the valley cover mod.
