Salvage 2002 LS1 won't start
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 8
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Salvage 2002 LS1 won't start I've just acquired from an Insurance salvage (yesterday!) a 2002 Trans Am with an LS1 and 6-spd manual trans. The vehicle was hit in the driver’s side front and both air bags deployed. The engine compartment was untouched and I have the keys. The battery was drained from the interior lights being left on.
I've charged the battery and it appears adequate (12.5v). When I insert the key into the ignition, the power to the dash comes-on, I hear the fuel pump and the air bag & check engine lights come on. When I turn the key to the start position nothing happens. No solenoid click, no power disruption, nothing. I've held it in the start position for 2-3 seconds. I've tried with the trans in gear, in neutral, clutch to the floor, still nothing.
I don't believe that there's an issue with the security system - the security light blinks (the one on top of the dash, not the instrument cluster) when I open the door; goes out when the door closes. When I turn the ignition to start, the light goes on steady for 1-2 seconds, then goes out.
As the air bags deployed, is there a reset that is needed to allow for a starting?
Thanks in advance.
I've charged the battery and it appears adequate (12.5v). When I insert the key into the ignition, the power to the dash comes-on, I hear the fuel pump and the air bag & check engine lights come on. When I turn the key to the start position nothing happens. No solenoid click, no power disruption, nothing. I've held it in the start position for 2-3 seconds. I've tried with the trans in gear, in neutral, clutch to the floor, still nothing.
I don't believe that there's an issue with the security system - the security light blinks (the one on top of the dash, not the instrument cluster) when I open the door; goes out when the door closes. When I turn the ignition to start, the light goes on steady for 1-2 seconds, then goes out.
As the air bags deployed, is there a reset that is needed to allow for a starting?
Thanks in advance.
No sounds like the solenoid at the starter is not getting power.
Does the security light in the cluster go of w/ key in the run position?
Jump 12v into the purple wire at the starter & see if it'll crank.
Does the security light in the cluster go of w/ key in the run position?
Jump 12v into the purple wire at the starter & see if it'll crank.
I'd start simple. make sure the battery terminals are extremely clean. I'd clean them off with some diet/reg. coke and a wire brush. then do the selenoid/starter, take it to the parts store and have them test it. other then that, its gotta be something in the ignition...
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 65
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From: Annapolis, MD Fmrly Lansing, MI
I would double check the clutch safety switch before you go pulling the starter. Make sure it is closing. If it does not you will not get starter power.
Also, the '02s have a power sleep mode. The interior lights should not have drained the battery. They will automatically shut off after the key has been removed from the ignition and the doors are closed(assuming the driver door could close). You may also have a power drain(though that alone should not stop the starter). It is something else to check.
Good Luck
Also, the '02s have a power sleep mode. The interior lights should not have drained the battery. They will automatically shut off after the key has been removed from the ignition and the doors are closed(assuming the driver door could close). You may also have a power drain(though that alone should not stop the starter). It is something else to check.
Good Luck
"The vehicle was hit in the driver’s side front "
that is where the 2 main fuse boxes are...
if it was enough to total out a $24,000++ car, them im guessing that is where the problem would be.
Ryan
that is where the 2 main fuse boxes are...
if it was enough to total out a $24,000++ car, them im guessing that is where the problem would be.
Ryan
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 8
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Thanks to those that have responded. Some comments:
To Ryan – Good thought. Fortunately the damage was to front suspension and body with no intrusion into engine bay. Both main fuse boxes and the wiring was untouched. As to insurance companies and their policies; I’ve given up long ago trying to second guess when they “total” and when they repair. I’m just glad they let this one go!
To SSN8R – The switch appears to be in good shape and moves in and out, as it should. As soon as I can get my fat butt under the rather tight area under the dash, I plan on removing the switch and try to jumper the wiring. Thanks for the suggestion.
To AsianIce25 – Thanks. I’ve cleaned the battery, wiring, etc. and charged it. Its holding a bit above 13V. The next step appears to be removing and testing if I don’t have any luck jumping the solenoid as wrencher has suggested.
Thanks "wrencher" I’ll give the jump a try. The security light in the cluster comes on for about 2-3 seconds and then goes out. That part I believe is normal.
To Ryan – Good thought. Fortunately the damage was to front suspension and body with no intrusion into engine bay. Both main fuse boxes and the wiring was untouched. As to insurance companies and their policies; I’ve given up long ago trying to second guess when they “total” and when they repair. I’m just glad they let this one go!
To SSN8R – The switch appears to be in good shape and moves in and out, as it should. As soon as I can get my fat butt under the rather tight area under the dash, I plan on removing the switch and try to jumper the wiring. Thanks for the suggestion.
To AsianIce25 – Thanks. I’ve cleaned the battery, wiring, etc. and charged it. Its holding a bit above 13V. The next step appears to be removing and testing if I don’t have any luck jumping the solenoid as wrencher has suggested.
Thanks "wrencher" I’ll give the jump a try. The security light in the cluster comes on for about 2-3 seconds and then goes out. That part I believe is normal.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 8
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Update;
Wedged myself under the dash and removed the clutch switch. It appears undamaged and works mechanically. Jumped the switch and still no starter.
Crawled under the car and visually inspected the starter. Everything’s connected and there didn’t appear to be any damage.
Opened the fuse boxes and inspected the fuses & relays. Nothing out of the ordinary. Decided I wanted to at least hear the engine, so I pulled the starter relay, turned the ignition on and jumped the poles – fired right up. Oil pressure was good, idle was smooth and no out-of-ordinary noises. Run the car up to operating temp and run the RPM range without any surprises. Air conditioning blew cold immediately and alternator was charging. I'll have the relay tested for function.
Still don’t know why the car won’t start normally, but it appears to have been a very good acquisition.
Thanks again to all for the responses.
Wedged myself under the dash and removed the clutch switch. It appears undamaged and works mechanically. Jumped the switch and still no starter.
Crawled under the car and visually inspected the starter. Everything’s connected and there didn’t appear to be any damage.
Opened the fuse boxes and inspected the fuses & relays. Nothing out of the ordinary. Decided I wanted to at least hear the engine, so I pulled the starter relay, turned the ignition on and jumped the poles – fired right up. Oil pressure was good, idle was smooth and no out-of-ordinary noises. Run the car up to operating temp and run the RPM range without any surprises. Air conditioning blew cold immediately and alternator was charging. I'll have the relay tested for function.
Still don’t know why the car won’t start normally, but it appears to have been a very good acquisition.
Thanks again to all for the responses.
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9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,445
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From: Bay Area, CA
have you scanned the car for any codes? any MIL lights, I forgot to put my (BCM) body control module back in and these were the same symptoms, I also edited out VATS but that still lets the start engage. tell me do the interior lights and door dinger still work? thats what I noticed was not working without a BCM haha.
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 99
Maybe its the keys Just a dumb thought because I know little about electronics on cars, but on my 98 Z there is a wire in the key.
I recall I was told this wire is coded somehow to start or not start the car.
Take your keys to the dealer and make sure they are the correct keys for your car.
hth
I recall I was told this wire is coded somehow to start or not start the car.
Take your keys to the dealer and make sure they are the correct keys for your car.
hth
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 245
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From: Over There!
It could also be a dealer-installed "kill" switch. I'm aware of at least one anti-theft system (can't remember the name) that won't power the starter solenoid unless the turn signal is engaged (either right or left depending on the installer's preference - try it both ways!). Had that on my old '98 - very stealth, and very confounding to anyone not familiar with that type of anti-theft... 
