ls1edit vs. HPP3
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From: DETROIT MUSCLE
ls1edit vs. HPP3 my car is a bolt-on car. a few races here and there. i dont want to shorten the life of tranny, and rear a ton, but which should i use for tuning my vig3200 once it in. is it worth it to have it done with ls1edit....in comparison to HPP3? or am i basically doing the same thing with ls1edit that i would be doin with the HPP3?? which would be better for me?
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From: Magee MS
Well the HPPIII is nice if you don't plan on modifiying your car anymore. BUT why worry about the tranny b/c its gunna take a dump on ya anyway. LS1 is nice. But you can also get a Predator and do almost as much. LS1 edit is supposed to arrive here tomorrow sometimes and I'll get the low down on it.
Either way I have a HPPIII for sale if ya know anyone who wants one for a 99 trans am. pm me for details.
Josh S.
Either way I have a HPPIII for sale if ya know anyone who wants one for a 99 trans am. pm me for details.
Josh S.
With HPP3 your options are limited. It is a great tool for those without laptops that need simple changes. If you ever plan to do heads or cam though it will not be very useful to you anymore.
With programming software such as HP Tuners VCM Suite (a sponsor of this site) --->
You have much more freedom and customization capabilities. It could be overwhelming at first glance if you've never tuned a vehicle before but after some reading and questions you should be able to get what you need done. With VCM suite you can do everything a device like HPP3 can do, just in a bit more time. If you are looking for somethign to walk you through the basic tune then HPP3 might be more suited for you. I believe your options are high octane fuel, shift points, rev limiter and rear gear ratio. One draw back is rather long write times. With VCM Suite the write time is typically 30 seconds. To make these chagnes though you do have to use a software based interface and actually make the chagnes yourself using a mouse.
The VCM Suite package costs $499 and for your vehicle it would allow you to modify all 1999 V8 F-bodies. Another feature you get is also scan tool software. Should make a great combo to tune your vehicle.
With programming software such as HP Tuners VCM Suite (a sponsor of this site) --->
You have much more freedom and customization capabilities. It could be overwhelming at first glance if you've never tuned a vehicle before but after some reading and questions you should be able to get what you need done. With VCM suite you can do everything a device like HPP3 can do, just in a bit more time. If you are looking for somethign to walk you through the basic tune then HPP3 might be more suited for you. I believe your options are high octane fuel, shift points, rev limiter and rear gear ratio. One draw back is rather long write times. With VCM Suite the write time is typically 30 seconds. To make these chagnes though you do have to use a software based interface and actually make the chagnes yourself using a mouse.
The VCM Suite package costs $499 and for your vehicle it would allow you to modify all 1999 V8 F-bodies. Another feature you get is also scan tool software. Should make a great combo to tune your vehicle.
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2003
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Hpp I wanted to buy the HPTuner but i am not planning to go internally on the engine. I feel bolts on to go high 11s low 12s is where i want to be. Anyways i just purchased a used HPP III and am very pleased with the results. I went to the track last nite and picked up .23/10s just by installing HPP program. Thats not even fine tuning it, as mentioned it does take 30 minutes to program. I know there is more by fine tuning. So point in case for what i paid for the HPP is a real bargain as compared to the lap top based programs. I will buy the HPtuner in the near future as i get more funds. But for now with limited funds 
, the HPP III works beyond what i expected. 
, the HPP III works beyond what i expected.
Originally Posted by The Guy in MY 99TA
Well the HPPIII is nice if you don't plan on modifiying your car anymore. BUT why worry about the tranny b/c its gunna take a dump on ya anyway. LS1 is nice. But you can also get a Predator and do almost as much. LS1 edit is supposed to arrive here tomorrow sometimes and I'll get the low down on it.
Either way I have a HPPIII for sale if ya know anyone who wants one for a 99 trans am. pm me for details.
Josh S.
Either way I have a HPPIII for sale if ya know anyone who wants one for a 99 trans am. pm me for details.
Josh S.
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Originally Posted by heyitsTaJay
has anyone used hpp3 strictly for tuning after you TC went in. what were your settings?
First I set it to"no" for Hyper Power tune, then what ever order they came in I put "yes" to different rear ratio and selected 3.73. Chose "no" to aftemarket shift kit. Chose "75%" firmness. Chose 2mph raised 1-2 shift point, 1mph 2-3 shift point and 1 mph 3-4 since I cross the line at 6000 rpm in 3rd gear.
Chose "yes" to different than stock tire height. Chose "26" for height. Chose "z rated" tire. Chose highest top speed. Chose to raise rev limiter 300 rpm(I think) . All this was step by step after running 13.2 with shift points/firmness, then after hitting the rev limiter because the 1-2 shift was higher rpm, it went 1mph fasetr and 12.9 - finally after playing ith shift points 1-2 and 2-3 and keeping the rev limiter raised I got to 12.86 at 106 after 13.2 at 106 and went home satisfied. Also was driving practice!
Play with it one change at a time after your first few runs to see what changes in your 60' time and mph/e.t.
Good luck.
As far as tunig for the converter - it has nothing to do with the tuning. Your shift points will be the same stall converter or stock converter, once you set them. The car will just feel smoother around town. And you can flash from an idle or hold the stall to 2400 or so to launch. Mine liked to idle and floor the pedal at the green light.I just had to try and get traction but that gave me my best 60' and e.t.
Thread Starter
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From: DETROIT MUSCLE
Originally Posted by chief455
yes, I installed a Vig 3200, cooler Nittos and 3.73 and went to the track.
First I set it to"no" for Hyper Power tune, then what ever order they came in I put "yes" to different rear ratio and selected 3.73. Chose "no" to aftemarket shift kit. Chose "75%" firmness. Chose 2mph raised 1-2 shift point, 1mph 2-3 shift point and 1 mph 3-4 since I cross the line at 6000 rpm in 3rd gear.
Chose "yes" to different than stock tire height. Chose "26" for height. Chose "z rated" tire. Chose highest top speed. Chose to raise rev limiter 300 rpm(I think) . All this was step by step after running 13.2 with shift points/firmness, then after hitting the rev limiter because the 1-2 shift was higher rpm, it went 1mph fasetr and 12.9 - finally after playing ith shift points 1-2 and 2-3 and keeping the rev limiter raised I got to 12.86 at 106 after 13.2 at 106 and went home satisfied. Also was driving practice!
Play with it one change at a time after your first few runs to see what changes in your 60' time and mph/e.t.
Good luck.
As far as tunig for the converter - it has nothing to do with the tuning. Your shift points will be the same stall converter or stock converter, once you set them. The car will just feel smoother around town. And you can flash from an idle or hold the stall to 2400 or so to launch. Mine liked to idle and floor the pedal at the green light.I just had to try and get traction but that gave me my best 60' and e.t.
First I set it to"no" for Hyper Power tune, then what ever order they came in I put "yes" to different rear ratio and selected 3.73. Chose "no" to aftemarket shift kit. Chose "75%" firmness. Chose 2mph raised 1-2 shift point, 1mph 2-3 shift point and 1 mph 3-4 since I cross the line at 6000 rpm in 3rd gear.
Chose "yes" to different than stock tire height. Chose "26" for height. Chose "z rated" tire. Chose highest top speed. Chose to raise rev limiter 300 rpm(I think) . All this was step by step after running 13.2 with shift points/firmness, then after hitting the rev limiter because the 1-2 shift was higher rpm, it went 1mph fasetr and 12.9 - finally after playing ith shift points 1-2 and 2-3 and keeping the rev limiter raised I got to 12.86 at 106 after 13.2 at 106 and went home satisfied. Also was driving practice!
Play with it one change at a time after your first few runs to see what changes in your 60' time and mph/e.t.
Good luck.
As far as tunig for the converter - it has nothing to do with the tuning. Your shift points will be the same stall converter or stock converter, once you set them. The car will just feel smoother around town. And you can flash from an idle or hold the stall to 2400 or so to launch. Mine liked to idle and floor the pedal at the green light.I just had to try and get traction but that gave me my best 60' and e.t.
thank you so much! chief455 
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,036
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From: Lake Zurich, IL
285*.35 = 99.75 / 25.4 = 3.9271653543307086614173228346457 * 2 + 18 = 7.8543307086614173228346456692913 + 18 = 25.854330708661417322834645669291
(the 35 part is a percentage of the width, so your side wall is 35% of the 285 width ... these are in millimeters, so we use a 25.4mm = 1 inch conversion. Then we take the height of 1 side wall and multiply by 2 to get both side walls, then add the diameter of the rim)
So you're actually 25.8" ... if you can't adjust it that precise then you'll just wanna set it to 26"
(the 35 part is a percentage of the width, so your side wall is 35% of the 285 width ... these are in millimeters, so we use a 25.4mm = 1 inch conversion. Then we take the height of 1 side wall and multiply by 2 to get both side walls, then add the diameter of the rim)
So you're actually 25.8" ... if you can't adjust it that precise then you'll just wanna set it to 26"
Originally Posted by heyitsTaJay
one more thing.one more thing chief. you set your height to 26inches. well i have 18's out back with nittos 285/35/18. would i set mine to 27inch height?
thanks
thanks
(285x0.35)x2
_____________
25.4
+ 18 = 25.85433(26)
HPP was a good tool when we had nothing else out there, but if I was in the position to buy a tuner right now, IMO HP Tuners package is the only way to go.
I used a HPP way back to change shift points.. then I started having issues with torque management. I then had to pay for tuning and sell the HPP.
Now there is finally a good product on the market that will give the benfits of scanning and programing your PCM in one package... and it's less than $200 more than the HPP.
So if you add in the extra $$$ for a scan tool such as autotap, you'll come out ahead buying the HP Tuners setup.
I used a HPP way back to change shift points.. then I started having issues with torque management. I then had to pay for tuning and sell the HPP.
Now there is finally a good product on the market that will give the benfits of scanning and programing your PCM in one package... and it's less than $200 more than the HPP.
So if you add in the extra $$$ for a scan tool such as autotap, you'll come out ahead buying the HP Tuners setup.
