Air Lid to 102 Throttle Body Coupler? MAF or SD??
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Air Lid to 102 Throttle Body Coupler? MAF or SD??
I need some help. Looking for the best setup....SD or MAF.
If MAF, what type of belo or coupler style to use between MAF and TB?
Need someone to explain to me what it intels to swap over to a SD setup.
Thanks in advance.
If MAF, what type of belo or coupler style to use between MAF and TB?
Need someone to explain to me what it intels to swap over to a SD setup.
Thanks in advance.
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What do you suggest? I hate to spend $200 - $300 on 100mm MAF.
That's exactly what I did, and yes, it worked out perfectly. What MAF are you running?
That's exactly what I did, and yes, it worked out perfectly. What MAF are you running?
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#11
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Go maf-less with a 4inch bellow and convert your dry shot into a wet shot.
I'm SD with a 102/102 combo with a wet nozzle in the intake track right after the lid.
Don't quote me on this but I don't think you can go dry shot on a SD tune because without the MAF to read the additional density in the air (ie. the nitrous) the PCM wouldn't know to compensate with additional fuel.
If you went with a Fast 90 get a 90mm TB and just keep your stock MAF and go dry shot.
Remember when you look at the FAST 102 and FAST 90 they are going to be priced about the same, but, it doesn't stop there. The 90 bolts right up. The 102 has additional cost built in with the fuel rail and spacer kit so tack on another couple hundred for that.
siliconeintakes.com and intakehoses.com are the places to go for reducers or bulge connectors to account for any misalignment.
I'm SD with a 102/102 combo with a wet nozzle in the intake track right after the lid.
Don't quote me on this but I don't think you can go dry shot on a SD tune because without the MAF to read the additional density in the air (ie. the nitrous) the PCM wouldn't know to compensate with additional fuel.
If you went with a Fast 90 get a 90mm TB and just keep your stock MAF and go dry shot.
Remember when you look at the FAST 102 and FAST 90 they are going to be priced about the same, but, it doesn't stop there. The 90 bolts right up. The 102 has additional cost built in with the fuel rail and spacer kit so tack on another couple hundred for that.
siliconeintakes.com and intakehoses.com are the places to go for reducers or bulge connectors to account for any misalignment.
#12
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I went mafless. I couldn't seem to stretch a 4" hose over the 102 so I went with a 4.5" on the other end I had the fast toys 100mm lid which is 4 inches. I got a second silicone 4 inch hose and where the Maf would have gone I got a muffler shop to make me a 4 to 4.5" transition.
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I would love to know what the pros and cons are when running a SD tune. I am looking to either upgrade MAF's or convert within the next two weeks....
I may start a new thread on this topic
I may start a new thread on this topic
#14
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I went mafless. I couldn't seem to stretch a 4" hose over the 102 so I went with a 4.5" on the other end I had the fast toys 100mm lid which is 4 inches. I got a second silicone 4 inch hose and where the Maf would have gone I got a muffler shop to make me a 4 to 4.5" transition.
I just sent you that pm that broke it all down for you. What else are you looking to know?
http://www.pcmforless.com/index.php?...ning&Itemid=56
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As I stand before my car sitting in the garage being just about ready to be put back together, the thought as to how I'm going to configure my air intake coupler system still lingers about. When I say that I mean getting from my SLP air lid to my stock LS1 MAF and then to my 102 TB / intake.
This whirlwind thought brought me to the forums for support, which I have received regarding silicone couplers, etc., but now I'm wondering if it is better to just go without the MAF (SD)...????? I will be swapping out cylinder heads as soon as they come in, so I was already going to need a new tune anyways.
I would love to read all arguments / debates on SD versus MAF tuning.
Thanks in advance, fellow LSX Junkies
Yes yes I know, and I thought the article was great. Just looking for some true testimonies from different users, thats all. I do appreciate what you provided for me.
And the 4" silicone deal from Home Depot fit over my 102 TB perfectly for me as well
What is that red canister???
This whirlwind thought brought me to the forums for support, which I have received regarding silicone couplers, etc., but now I'm wondering if it is better to just go without the MAF (SD)...????? I will be swapping out cylinder heads as soon as they come in, so I was already going to need a new tune anyways.
I would love to read all arguments / debates on SD versus MAF tuning.
Thanks in advance, fellow LSX Junkies
Yes yes I know, and I thought the article was great. Just looking for some true testimonies from different users, thats all. I do appreciate what you provided for me.
And the 4" silicone deal from Home Depot fit over my 102 TB perfectly for me as well
What is that red canister???
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Speed Density uses all sensor inputs then looks up upon a table for timing and injector pulse width decisions, ie, engine mgmt.
MAF uses the same sensors, but MAF also measures the amount/volume of ingested air for engine mgmt. A better system, IMO.
JMT's
MAF uses the same sensors, but MAF also measures the amount/volume of ingested air for engine mgmt. A better system, IMO.
JMT's
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Not sure what that is :/ I'm a newbie
Thank yall. I agree as something about not measuring air flow as its coming in to be able to know how much fuel to release doesnt sit right with me. But hey, I'm a newbie...
So being I have the Fast 102 TB / Intake system, it's almost crucial that I get the FTP 100 lid with the accompanying MAF??
Thank yall. I agree as something about not measuring air flow as its coming in to be able to know how much fuel to release doesnt sit right with me. But hey, I'm a newbie...
So being I have the Fast 102 TB / Intake system, it's almost crucial that I get the FTP 100 lid with the accompanying MAF??