01cherryreds10

iTrader: (9)

Been driving the car around town more and more and it's getting more annoying with time. The other day I had to keep restarting the car to get it into the garage

Stop and go traffic is pretty bad, as is maneuvering in a parking lot.

Here are the specs
Stock bottom 6.0L LQ4
FAST 102mm intake
NW 102 TB
LS7 MAF
4" intake tube
231/234 .612/.617 112 LSA cam
1-7/8 Longtube headers
Yank 4000 stall
4L60E trans

The tuner who previously did the work hasn't returned my email yet so I figured I would throw a post on here to see maybe if someone has something to say.

Here is the log, and the tune. The problem is from 15 seconds to 20 seconds, I logged my IAC counts because they seemed to be high especially at that temperature but who knows

1slowbusa

iTrader: (8)

I looked briefly at your your log. Your IAT temperature is reading 133-142F.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

High IAT probably pulls a bunch of timing. If the problem
is really the ability to track a dropped-throttle event you
may want your tuner to look at throttle follower decay
and let it ease into idle more slowly. But more likely the
spark and fueling are somehow "off" and the idle loop (in
concert with the realities of motor response to step-air)
is too slow or unstable to hang with fast throttle changes.

01cherryreds10

iTrader: (9)

So should I slowly lower throttle decay and see if it helps at all?

Emailed the tuner a couple weeks ago with no response back

edcmat-l1

iTrader: (10)

You need to log:

Idle desired airflow
Idle adapt (stit)
LTIT (both)
Idle cracker
Idle follower

Using these PIDs, you should be able to figure out what needs to be done. It might need more idle airflow. might need more cracker, or rolling idle. It may also need the blade cracked open a little more. Hard to tell without the right idle PIDs.

01cherryreds10

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the help. It's a huge learning curve messing with driveability issues after someone else tunes it. There are so many threads out there with issues but theres always 3 or 4 different ways to go about it.

Would it be alright if I post my findings once I get to working on the car again

randy129

iTrader: (5)

I'd appreciate being able to follow along. Might help me solve a tuning problem at some point.

93BlackTa

iTrader: (17)

I'm in for an answer as well as my setup is very similar to yours and I have the exact same troubles

01cherryreds10

iTrader: (9)

Here are three logs I took today. Really couldn't get it to happen too much until I got off the highway (about a 30 minute drive). Maybe it does have something to do with the IAT because I didn't see any past 115°

I was looking at different threads and am going to try and figure this out using the Russ K config.

Sorry this is a lot to digest. I'm a dealer tech and to be quite frank we are used to reading data and looking for a set value, with so many aftermarket combinations it's hard to do something like that.

Russ K

iTrader: (1)

That is not my idle .cfg file, this is mine. That one is missing a lot of pids needed.

This site won't upload a .cfg file, so I renamed it a .hpl, just change it back to a .cfg

Russ Kemp

01cherryreds10

iTrader: (9)

Just re-downloaded your config Russ, thank you I will do some logging tomorrow and give it another shot

01cherryreds10

iTrader: (9)

I did some logs today. I did both the idle in park and idle in gear, and copied the numbers to the corresponding charts. Took it for a drive on the way home and as soon as I would hit a stop light it would die. It was weird though, on a closed throttle decal the RPM would drop to say 1000 but it would run quite decent.

In order to get it home I stopped and reflashed the original tune back in.

Should I put the numbers back into the charts, and play with the throttle screw some and see if it has any affect?

I may just live with the issues until I can install the NGK wideband on my car and just re do the tune starting with the VE table

Russ K

iTrader: (1)

Return the stall saver tables to stock (0). Raise the idle spark in gear back to 28* Then you will have to lower the RAF in gear table.

Russ Kemp

01cherryreds10

iTrader: (9)

Thanks Russ for all of your help. I made the changes and lowered the in gear RAF table by 5%.

Why did I have to lower the RAF table? Was I supposed to have the stock stall saver and 28° idle spark advance when logging with your config?

Russ K

iTrader: (1)

Because with more spark timing in gear, your RAF will be too high.


Yes

Russ Kemp

01cherryreds10

iTrader: (9)

Thank you very much. I only have an hour at most to mess with the car throughout the day so hopefully I will be able to figure this out before it gets too cold outside.

I ran your config and used the data, plus the zero'd stall saver tables and 28° idle spark and it wanted to die out but not as bad as before.

My question is, where do I go after correcting the RAF tables with the stall saver and spark advance corrected? If the car wants to die out do I add to the RAF in gear until it stops?

I noticed after changing the RAF the IAC counts were a lot lower, does that mean the throttle should be adjusted?


Just to be clear I understand to fix the stall saver and idle spark, THEN run your config then plug in the numbers