02 sensor.....slow response.....question..??????
02 sensor.....slow response.....question..?????? P0133 code on one side.
A tuner told me this does not affect the engines performance at all....?
Is this true...?
It's a 2 month old sensor. They installed it. I figured I'd get them to put a new one in but they said it doesn't affect anything. I'm sure it's warrantied at least 90 days.
.
A tuner told me this does not affect the engines performance at all....?
Is this true...?
It's a 2 month old sensor. They installed it. I figured I'd get them to put a new one in but they said it doesn't affect anything. I'm sure it's warrantied at least 90 days.
.
Last edited by LS6427; Aug 7, 2013 at 01:38 PM.
Slow means also inaccurate and that can affect WOT
performance in a roundabout way, if you're still running
closed loop.
But the problem is not likely the sensor - if it's "slow"
and new, that's simple heat loss and you have to fix
it as such, live with the inconsistency / driving history
effect on fueling or forget closed loop (or, go all STFT
and disable LTFTs so false trimming only dogs the cell
you're in, in the moment).
performance in a roundabout way, if you're still running
closed loop.
But the problem is not likely the sensor - if it's "slow"
and new, that's simple heat loss and you have to fix
it as such, live with the inconsistency / driving history
effect on fueling or forget closed loop (or, go all STFT
and disable LTFTs so false trimming only dogs the cell
you're in, in the moment).
Slow response, insufficient activity and insufficient switching codes are very common when LT headers are installed. Just set those codes to no error reported & uncheck the SES box.
Russ Kemp
Russ Kemp
This is a Bosch sensor, the shop put one in and I did not know it at the time.
I'm gonna get a Denso......
.
I picked Denso when I went to LTs based on some
net.wisdom that they were "hotter", but I still got
the heater and switching codes. The car ran "OK"
with all the codes killed but the sensor output was
visibly messed up (slow, asymmetric switching).
You can drive that way, it just is stanky and a bit
of a MPG loss (if you care) as long as you keep any
false trimming from stepping on your WOT fueling.
net.wisdom that they were "hotter", but I still got
the heater and switching codes. The car ran "OK"
with all the codes killed but the sensor output was
visibly messed up (slow, asymmetric switching).
You can drive that way, it just is stanky and a bit
of a MPG loss (if you care) as long as you keep any
false trimming from stepping on your WOT fueling.
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Had the same issue....slow switching when I went to LT's. Shut off the codes and no worries. I would like to fix my +LTFT's at idle due to the LT's slow switching. I've heard there are tables that you can adjust so that they don't weight the trims as much when in the idle range.
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Verdad Gallardo I picked Denso when I went to LTs based on some
net.wisdom that they were "hotter", but I still got
the heater and switching codes. The car ran "OK"
with all the codes killed but the sensor output was
visibly messed up (slow, asymmetric switching).
You can drive that way, it just is stanky and a bit
of a MPG loss (if you care) as long as you keep any
false trimming from stepping on your WOT fueling.
net.wisdom that they were "hotter", but I still got
the heater and switching codes. The car ran "OK"
with all the codes killed but the sensor output was
visibly messed up (slow, asymmetric switching).
You can drive that way, it just is stanky and a bit
of a MPG loss (if you care) as long as you keep any
false trimming from stepping on your WOT fueling.
.
Had the same issue....slow switching when I went to LT's. Shut off the codes and no worries. I would like to fix my +LTFT's at idle due to the LT's slow switching. I've heard there are tables that you can adjust so that they don't weight the trims as much when in the idle range.
I think I just need to go back to Densos. The shop put Bosch in when they installed my new engine 2 months ago.
.
